CB360 is almost done

16591 Views 165 Replies 13 Participants Last post by sakibomb, May 6, 2009

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · Mar 19, 2009

So the other day i got bored and pieced together almost the entire bike. I still need std piston rings but have found a site that has them in stock. I just need the money to order them. However i found some interesting things.

I took apart the main switch and cleaned all the contacts as the headlight and all other lights took a few seconds to "warm up" after which point that would go full power. As in from dim to ....ON. Will i got rid of the corrosion in the connectors and switch contacts. A pain but something that needed care.

Now i was going to look at the last three things bugging me. Now i know i don't REALLY need a high beam indicator since there's a switch for it and i'm inches from the headlight but it bugs me. So i'm tracking that down. The neutral idicator doesn't work, however after finding no cont' between the switch and the case i took the switch out and pressed on it and checked. Switch checks good, i look inside and..................something is missing. Whatever is supposed to press against the switch internally on the shifter is ....gone lol.

So i guess i can consider that problem solved. So i guess i'll just ignore it being that i doubt i can really fix this without separating the case again and thats too much work for a stupid light when i can just click up once and slowly let out on teh clutch. BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT detail.

I have no running tail light. I have a stop, but no tail. The switch cleaning dropped the resistance from 23M ohms to 1.1 ohms. Something i'm very happy to report. However i still have no tail. Fuse is good, but whats up here? I've got a wire diagram in font of me but i'm kinda confused. That and taking a break. After i tape up the wire and have it fixed i'll have some new pics for you guys. Its looking great so far.

See less See more

41 - 60 of 166 Posts

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #41 · Apr 3, 2009

4

O and these are for leethal

Also i want to just add this, for a 2nd time welding ever i say i did pretty damn good on the new borla exhaust for my soon to be turbo mazda mx6

Someone said i should turn up the voltage a bit since they seem to look a little cold and that i need to steady my hand a little more since i'm zigzagging. I also think i should get a little closer since there is a little splatter. But for never doing this ever i think i'm starting to get the hang of it. Too bad the honda's mufflers didn't come out that smooth.

See less See more

leethal

· #42 · Apr 3, 2009

sakibomb said:
O and these are for leethal

You da man saki

PM will be sent shortly.

sakibomb said:
And here's where i snapped for a moment.

Well next time you crack the shits try and slap the other side, then you can mount some cool knee guards :x :lol:

Strength through adversity will see you through this build saki-san :ugeek:

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #43 · Apr 3, 2009

leethal said:
sakibomb said:

O and these are for leethal

Click to expand...

You da man saki PM will be sent shortly.

sakibomb said:

And here's where i snapped for a moment.

Click to expand...

Well next time you crack the shits try and slap the other side, then you can mount some cool knee guards :x :lol:

Strength through adversity will see you through this build saki-san :ugeek:

I did notice that lol. I thought of beating it up like a sport bike tank so i can sit on the tank pfft.

Maybe i'll just bomber out the tank, nobdoy will notice then lol.

Bird76Mojo

· #44 · Apr 3, 2009

If it pops and throws splatter then turn down the wire/up the voltage, but if it burns back to the tip or melts holes to easily, then turn up the wire and go faster, or turn down the heat. It does help to have someone standing by to adjust as you weld. "Stick-out" is another thing to consider. Vary the distance you are away from the material you're welding on. You'll see what I mean. When you find the right distance away then try to hold that exact distance the whole time no matter what "pattern" you're trying to use. From everyone I've ever trained, that seems to be the hardest thing for them to learn.

I've DEFINITELY seen worse from a newb.

GB :mrgreen:

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #45 · Apr 3, 2009

Cool, i'll remember that next time i weld........whenever that is lol.

I don't have much of a reason to turn it on at the moment.

Bird76Mojo

· #46 · Apr 3, 2009

sakibomb said:
I don't have much of a reason to turn it on at the moment.

Anytime is a good time, for practice.

They say it makes perfect..

GB :mrgreen:

MNellis

· #47 · Apr 3, 2009

Is that a '72 S2 I see back there? Maybe that's the answer to your temporary financial situation.

Although I'm really interested in finding an H2, let me know if you want to sell that thing. Did you ever get the leaking carb fixed?

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #48 · Apr 4, 2009

MNellis said:
Is that a '72 S2 I see back there? Maybe that's the answer to your temporary financial situation.

Although I'm really interested in finding an H2, let me know if you want to sell that thing. Did you ever get the leaking carb fixed?

nah its a '75 S1. Which would still bring over 1K i'm sure. But thats only a temporary solution. I know that bike would bring i some cash but, like i said, its only a temp fix. I'll be broke again after a while.

About the carb.........idk wtf happened. It stopped. Must have been a piece of dirt or something. I still have the carbs adjusted differently than spec but it doesn't flood, leak, misfire or anything. Starts on the first kick everytime, never has a problem ziping up to 8K. My tach is off so there's a chance i'm probably hitting around 9 or 10 just now thinking about it. Truthfully i rarely ever rev it past 6K. But when i do, she definitly has the beans to move.

Bird76Mojo

· #49 · Apr 4, 2009

MNellis said:
Is that a '72 S2 I see back there? Maybe that's the answer to your temporary financial situation.

Although I'm really interested in finding an H2, let me know if you want to sell that thing. Did you ever get the leaking carb fixed?

Hey man! I'm the resident "looking for an H2" guy... Have you no shame?

GB :lol:

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #50 · Apr 4, 2009

Bird76Mojo said:
MNellis said:

Is that a '72 S2 I see back there? Maybe that's the answer to your temporary financial situation.

Although I'm really interested in finding an H2, let me know if you want to sell that thing. Did you ever get the leaking carb fixed?

Click to expand...

Hey man! I'm the resident "looking for an H2" guy... Have you no shame?

GB :lol:

Its not an H2 but a local bike shop owner has a basket case '72 H1. He was going to sell it to me for 100. I can give you the number and you can ask "ron" if he still has it. If need be i can just pick it up and hold it for you. Of course i would need the money first but he's only like 15 mins away, i wouldn't mind trucking it to my house for storage.

It is a mess though. The wheels are almost perfect, the tank is clean inside, the chain gaurd is still a nice chrome. But......as for the rest of it, rust city. Not a whole lot you wouldn't have to clean and sand away. The seat cushion and seat pan are also pretty f'd.

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #51 · Apr 4, 2009

O and it has no engine. The very part that would make it worth it. I guess the PO pulled out the motor in like '79 and put it in an atv. After that just let the bike sit in the mud next to a barn or something.

Its def a project and could become something nice but it ain't no H2 and it wouldn't be cheap to restore. Course really i guess no triple is cheap.

Bird76Mojo

· #52 · Apr 4, 2009

Thanks for the offer man but without that engine it's of no use to me. Plus it's not an H2... That's all I'm interested in at the moment.

I went and looked at a GS1000 shaftie yesterday and turned it down for $500. 23,000 miles and needing lots of little stuff that annoys me.

P.S. I was speaking to Mnellis... :lol: To shame, to shame....

GB :mrgreen:

MNellis

· #53 · Apr 4, 2009

Bird76Mojo said:
P.S. I was speaking to Mnellis... :lol: To shame, to shame....

Hey, what'd I do? The desire for the H2 runs deep. If I had the disposable income that was avaliable to me a fews years ago I'd have already bought the purple one that was just relisted on eBay. It only has 2 problems. No original airbox and it's purple.

At $8500, it might even be somewhat of a bargin.

At the risk of really thread jacking this post, I'm talking to a guy now about a very, very nice 78 XS750. When I first met my girlfriend (now my wife) we bought one identical to it and she actually rode it for a year or so before we sold it (mistake)

It's a good price and from what I can see it's a nice bike.

See less See more

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #54 · Apr 5, 2009

Dang, that is purdy.

Update:

Alright, so I got a new exhaust stud and bolt and washer. I did cut the end off the clamp as i noticed it was somehow bent. Which explains why it didn't want to fit on the other side. No biggie, if i really need to i'll hunt another down.

I also thought that i could possibly pull out the valves and transfer them to the other head. Its not messed up, just has bent vavles and i have no idea how to get them out. As far as threads and stress cracks its still in good shape. I saw a faucet remover at ace hardware today for 9 bucks.

Not sure if its strong enough but how do you get the valves out of these heads. I have seen a valve compressor for a head before but its too bulky to fit in ours. What do you guys use.

I also replaced the fuses that were blown. Now i only need a new battery. I might steal the kawa's tomorrow and just hook up an extra car battery to it, just to make sure it has enough life to get the engine going. Got a price for my new battery, roughly 38 dollars after tax. That seem reasonable, its just advanced auto. I dont' really know a good motorcycle battery, but at the moment not sure if could afford a REALLY nice deka or interstate. They coudl all be the same for all i know, i haven't done a lot of web searching today. Hung 3 ceiling fans and wired them up.

I also need some exhaust clamps for teh mufflers. One is in good shape, the either i've misplaced and it has the weird round jam nut stopper thing at the bottom and the stud broke off. I was going to just cut it off and try to get bolts to fit them but do you guys have any recommendations?

Damnit, i also just remembered those weird light bulbs i want. I'm headed to the hardware store in a few mins to get some stuff, i'll see if the bulbs are there so i can mount the speedo and stuff again.

See less See more

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #55 · Apr 7, 2009

i used a bigass c-clamp and socket on teh old head. Got a valve out, but it was a big scary. Not sure i want to do that again.

Also got my nuts today

Got the mufflers bolted down, the clamps aren't on but i'm not going to worry abotu that for right now. Fuel lines got ran, going to look at the timing one more time cause after reading on here i think i made it off lol. Only thing left to do is put a test battery in and see what it does. I'll try to have live video footage tomorrow. It'll either blow up or run lol. I shouldn't say that though, i did do a lot of work and a lot of it correctly. For seating the rings i've heard many things. I think what i'm goin to do, is allow it to warm up. There is a hill in my small neighborhood and i'm going to just put the bike in say 4th gear at low rpms and climb up it like 4 times. That should be enough engine load to seat the rings.

Honestly what does seating the rings do. Other than break in the material?

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #56 · Apr 8, 2009

Update:

Holy ****! I've got inspiration coming to all of you in a few minutes on youtube. 2 Kicks, fires to life. No misfiring, a lot of smoke at first but thats undestandable, and fast response to the throttle. My god this thing sounds like a beast. Its on the charger with its bad battery right now, i just haven't had the money to get a new one yet.

My starter doesn't work, which is weird since it used to. Going to check if power to solenoid or good ground. Other than that, she's a beast and waiting to be ridden. Its also a little noisy at the engine. I'm going to try to adjust the cam chain and see if she quiets down. But this baby is rockin to life. What should i name her?

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #57 · Apr 8, 2009

Well sure enough the adjustment worked a little. I turned it and it popped and i heard movement. I then tightened it back up, still kinda chattery, maybe thats just how they sound. If needed i can get a closer up movie to hear the chatter.

Also my first attempt at welding must have sucked because the pipes definitly leak lol. Not as bad as what it might have been if i didn't do anything. I'm quite found of this little bike now, sure as hell sounds meaner than i bet it is.

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #58 · Apr 8, 2009

There's the youtube.

sakibomb

Discussion Starter · #59 · Apr 8, 2009

well i noticed that my nut on the clutch cover is stuck in place. I can take the nut off of it, however i can't spin it in or out with my flathead. I take it this is probably my problem. Let me be specific, the clutch adjusting lock nut is free, but the clutch adjuster itself seems to be stuck. If i take the lock nut loose the clutch adjuster is very loose, i just can't thread it in or out.

I also noticed a small drip under the case where i'm missing a bolt. I dont know the size but its one of the bolts next to the counter sprocket underneath. One of the skinner 6mm bolts i'm guessing. Does anyone have a complete list of the bolts i would need to get from the hardware store to do the bottom case. I'm only missing like 3 but if possible i want to just pick them up for a few cents.

If i have to order them from honda i'll do it but i'm sure they are readily available.

leethal

· #60 · Apr 8, 2009

Another 360 off the starting block...I'm gettin left behind here

Good onya saki.

You really should watch those high revs when you start it up, thats whats kills our cam journals in no time at all. Give it plenty of time to feed oil up from the sump first.

She sounds pretty tough, did you remove any baffling on them pipes? I gotta feelin that you jetted on the lean side of things (hence the high idle thats slow to fall).

41 - 60 of 166 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.