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CB360 is almost done

16593 Views 165 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  sakibomb
So the other day i got bored and pieced together almost the entire bike. I still need std piston rings but have found a site that has them in stock. I just need the money to order them. However i found some interesting things.

I took apart the main switch and cleaned all the contacts as the headlight and all other lights took a few seconds to "warm up" after which point that would go full power. As in from dim to ....ON. Will i got rid of the corrosion in the connectors and switch contacts. A pain but something that needed care.

Now i was going to look at the last three things bugging me. Now i know i don't REALLY need a high beam indicator since there's a switch for it and i'm inches from the headlight but it bugs me. So i'm tracking that down. The neutral idicator doesn't work, however after finding no cont' between the switch and the case i took the switch out and pressed on it and checked. Switch checks good, i look inside and..................something is missing. Whatever is supposed to press against the switch internally on the shifter is ....gone lol.

So i guess i can consider that problem solved. So i guess i'll just ignore it being that i doubt i can really fix this without separating the case again and thats too much work for a stupid light when i can just click up once and slowly let out on teh clutch. BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT detail.

I have no running tail light. I have a stop, but no tail. The switch cleaning dropped the resistance from 23M ohms to 1.1 ohms. Something i'm very happy to report. However i still have no tail. Fuse is good, but whats up here? I've got a wire diagram in font of me but i'm kinda confused. That and taking a break. After i tape up the wire and have it fixed i'll have some new pics for you guys. Its looking great so far.
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tbpmusic said:
sakibomb said:
I tried that but they didn't do anything. I soaked them in there for a few hours and tried again and they still didn't expand. I honestly forgot they were in there, i'm sure days later they are bigger than hell. If they don't fit i'll just stick them in the deep freeze. Give it a few mins and try and fit.
Never been a huge fan of PB Blaster, just never worked that well for me.

Anyway, a quick (less than one hour) soak in Xylol (from a hardware store) is guaranteed to swell up and soften those o-rings (or any rubber part, like intake manifolds, etc.).
Don't worry, they will shrink back.
Ordinary diesel fuel will do the same thing - see the "Hard Rubber" post, here somewhere.......
Sounds like a plan, i'll try them out later. If they didn't swell enough i'll get some diesel. Besides, i hear its a bitchen cleaning product. And a badass penetrating fluid if mixed 50/50 with atf.
Almost got humpty dumpty back together again. Got the rings, and promptly installed my wrist pins. Set each ring 120 from each other and not 90 from the wrist pin. Put the head on and torqued to spec. Checked my camshaft clearance with my feelers and not enough room for a 1.0mm washer. Next i set the cam timing and put the guide tensioner in and set it to the tension....which is pretty easy really considering you don't do much of anything :lol:

Next then was the valve/rocker arm cover. Nice thin layer of hondabond and then dropped it on. This is when i realized that i'm missing 3 bolts. Figures....... one biggen, and two little 6mm's. I'll pick them up today though, not that great of a deal. Put the Positive Crankcase Vent on with its new gasket and hosed it up. Again, missing bolts for my points, didn't see that happening :lol: . I love how this bike is just missing stuff. But considering when i got it most of the parts were in a trash bag and bolts laying a shelf i should be pretty happy i'm only missing 5 at this point.

Anyway, found two bolts in my honda drawer (cars) and oddly enough the bolts for a honda accord window motor are the perfect size for the points. Threaded them in nicely and snugged them down. Now where do the point ends wire up to. I see on the coils a yellow and a blue connector, but the thing is too damn short. Do they wire up near the carbs or do they really have to bend all the way to the coils.

O, and i also got the ride side exhaust on after re-tapping the threads. The L side i still need to drill and tap its hole so i can thread a bolt in. I thought about doing a heli-coil but my dad brought up the idea of just tapping for a bolt i already have. Seems easy enough. Next thing i know 6 hours had passed and i damn near rebuilt the entire bike in one sitting. So i'm taking a break today, i have a few progress pics i'll post later.

I'm so excited, i've rebuilt engines in school but never had the chance to actually start one after i was done.

O and just for piece of mind, i've used engine assembly lube on everything and already rotated the crankshaft a good dozen times nice and slow to make sure valve clearance. My instructor always taught me to use a good amount of engine lube when rebuilding. "If you start it up and it doesn't smoke for a minute, you didn't lube it enough " I took that theory and kept it. I made sure to bath anything with a machined surface or something that could possibly scar another surface on the intial start. Gears, journals, bearings, Cyl name it i got dirty. This is going to be so sweet tomorrow if i get everything back together and another battery. I'm like a kid in a candy store :)
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I also just remebered i was going to check my vavle tappet clearance. Not sure when it was done last but i've done a bazillion measurements. Might as well do it.

MMMM, i think i screwed up the timing. I just for the heck of it threw a compression gauge on and stepped on the kicker. It was so good at first that ihad to stand on it, and then the bike rolled forward and the saki saved it. Busted my side cover but the other is cracked pretty bad so. .............Somehow the saki didn't take any damage. O well, so i kicked it down into nuetral, kick again, bike moves wtf. Tap shifter again, tap up. Ok now its neutral. Somehow the bastard got into like 3rd gear or something weird. Anyway, kicked it a few times and got Zero. I put my hand over the open exhause and no air, no suction on the intake boot. I'm thinking when i set my cam, that i made the lobes point down. Meaning on the exhaust its closed probably and compression its open. I'll look at it later but i'm almost positive thats what i did. I don't remember checking the orientation. Just the cam line and the stator line on LT.

I guess thats what i get for not taking a break. lol
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sakibomb said:
Now where do the point ends wire up to. I see on the coils a yellow and a blue connector, but the thing is too damn short. Do they wire up near the carbs or do they really have to bend all the way to the coils.
That's the connector, alright....
The coils should have a black/white wire, it's the 12 volt send from the kill switch.
The blue and yellow wires connect to the points and the condensors....
On one of the twins, the condensor wires "jump" from the point wires to the coils with the condenser in the middle (might be the 360) ....on most (and electrically it's the same,) the coil and point wires join at a "twinned" connector, the wire from which then goes to the condenser....
sakibomb said:
Almost got humpty dumpty back together again.
I envy you guys....I'm sooo far from a rolling chassis its just not cricket...
66Sprint said:
On one of the twins, the condensor wires "jump" from the point wires to the coils with the condenser in the middle (might be the 360) ....on most (and electrically it's the same,) the coil and point wires join at a "twinned" connector, the wire from which then goes to the condenser....
Thats just the bastard i'm looking at. Wow, what a pain.

Anyway update, so i checked it again before pulling the valve cover off. Still nothing. I pulled the cover off and the guide clip at the top to make it easier to rotate the chain. I double checked before i unbolted it and it was actually facing the right wtf. I put all the goodies back on and pull the valve tappet holes off thinking maybe the valves aren't getting pressed down enough. My dad came out at this point to see the progress and he tried kicking it over, after about 10-11 kicks compression shot up to 90psi. :?: :?: :?: So i relived the pressure and changed cyl and i kicked it. 100psi. So confused i let it sit for a few mins thinking the rings or something might leak. I cam back after a short ride around the block on the saki (after new exhaust rubbers :D ) and checked it. Still hangin at 100psi. I relive pressure and kick the hell out of it again, and got zero again. The valves don't appear to be sticking but i'm going to look at some other things. Still kinda clueless whats up though.

Also my carb o-rings finally swelled up enough, actually too much so they are chillin in the deep freeze right now. Going to try short 5 min intervals till they are the right size.
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another update, o-rings are slowly shrinking but hell without a job and no real time for this to run i have all day.

I have noticed my intakes are burping out a lot of compression. I can feel my skin on my palm kicking back when the valves open................ The L and R both do the same. Its like its rotating backwards or something f'd up heh. Could it be that when i put the rockers back in the cover i put them in backwards??? The seem to line up just fine. And i never took the point advance off the camshaft so i'm positive it can only go on one way.
HAH I FIGURED IT OUT :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

New head so could be a different length from the old head. I had to back the hell out of the tappets since there was no clearance. I used my feeler gauge and just did all of them to .002" . I know thats not right but it was just a quick idea. Well take about 5 kicks to get to 120psi in both cyl's. I need to adjust them a bit more since according to the factory manual its supposed to be at 149-171. So i'm going to shoot for 160. Back to work, just thoughti would update. I also don't feel like a complete idiot now. I thought i put something in wrong for a while heh.
Got to a little over 140 and my leg ran out of steam. Its staying there :lol:

Also figured out how the rear brake pedal mounts and springs back again. ....filled er' up with oil. Got the old spark plugs and cleaned them and checked the gap. Got one exhaust pipe on, have to get a bolt for the clamp, but other than that its ready.

L still needs a bolt or stud for the header pipe, a bolt for its muffler clamp and then two nuts to hold the muffler on. Going to try to get a battery tomorrow as well. I have an extra dead car battery and a dead motorcycle battery so i'm going to see if i can do two core charges. Also realized i'm a dumbass and moved the points harness from the R side of the frame to the L side, the points plug in very easy now..... :roll:

I hear tomorrow is crappy so i probably won't try to start it, being the down pour. I also need to rig up a cd full of inspirational music such as Jerry Reeds "Eastbound and Down" or Judas Priest's "Turbo Lover" or maybe even some Alice Cooper "Frankenstein"

Something comical and whatever makes a perfect setting to bring the dead to life again :)
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O, and here's the pics i promised.
New rings

Cylinder jugs dropped on and rings safely installed.

Got the head installed and chain tensioner installed and adjusted

Valve cover back on and sealed up

Everything is on again, minus carbs

CB360 also comes with realistic BATTLE DAMAGE! Come get yours today, only 19.99, use your visa card and we'll throw in "Free Fouled Plugs" We can't do this all day folks so make sure you call now.
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Thats last pic looks like ya pissing fuel on the floor? Nasty.
Sooo...did that left side cover have a 360 logo that you'd wanna sell me??? I can use credit card today...
leethal said:
Thats last pic looks like ya pissing fuel on the floor? Nasty.
Sooo...did that left side cover have a 360 logo that you'd wanna sell me??? I can use credit card today...
I have them both. One the stadoff's are broke so you would to glue them on and i have the other and its fine. They both have some paint fading but if you want pics i could get them for you later this week. They are at my old apartment........i think. I hope i didn't throw them away. I know you want a set and i def won't rip you off for 150 bucks. If i can find them in a few days i will let you know. I'll try to find them soon for ya.

Also, its oil. Its leaking out the bottom of the stator. If i tilt the bike the other way it doesn't do it. I had a frantic fight yesterday realising i just finger tightend the side covers for whatever reason. I put oil in and it started to drip out lol. Everything is good now though. Oddly enough the only fuel pissing on the floor was from the kawasaki since i went riding and went to show my dad something so i turned on teh fuel for a moment. Next thing you know its like 2 hours later i go outside and mom says "something smells bad out here"...........o yea, that 10 second run....shoulda just left the fuel off.
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update. Alright, so the o-rings are not shrinking now. I think they sat FAR FAR too long and i guess i'll have to come up with my own idea at this point. I had considered a few minutes ago cutting them to the size i need and using the hondabond to glue them together again.

Kinda iffy on that one, i thought about the rope idea but after it swells to seal, fuel will just come out of the rope and leak all over the place. I also conisidered usin my permatex silver and just filling in the gap, letting it dry and then putting the bowl on. I know gas disolves it and causes the fuel in the bowl to get nasty so thats not really a great idea either.

I think i'm going to work on a paper gasket tomorrow. That and the exhaust stud are the only two things holding me back from a test fire.

I also worked on the stud today. I got no where, i first tried to get the old busted piece out with an ease out. After drilling into the bolt, i got the easy out and tapped it with a hammer. After numerous attempts i just ended up almost screwing up the threads on the easy out. So i decided to drill the little bastard out and just retap the hole. I'm not sure what kind of bolt is it, but that bastard was dulling my bits. I got most of it out but i started to get pissed because my exhaust clamp (the thick ring side one) is somehow warped or something. When i slide it on, it gets jammed and stuck. So after beating the life out of it, its better now but i gave up on the stud. I actually tried to weld the stud in place but i also thought that was just stupid after the first couple of seconds. Tomorrow i'm just going to get a helicoil set. I'd rather just do it right than accidentally screw up my used head.
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Wow dude. That's one hell of a day! :p

Oh and that rope is'nt rope at all. It's got nylon in it, I'd put money on that. If doing a rope seal, then you'd need cotton rope impregnated with high temp grease, and for use as an oil seal only ideally.

I did mention that the PB Blaster would swell them beyond use. Even if just wiping them.

GB :mrgreen:
HAH!!!!!!!!!!!! :shock: :shock:

Dumbluck baby, gotta love it. I walked outside to make a youtube of how i fixed my diaphragms and i happened to notice the o-rings looked smaller. They were barely bigger than the bowl, with a little bit of tucking they stayed in the recessed area and i was able to bolt them on the bike. Also, WHAT MORON DESIGNED THE CLEARANCE ON THAT.

Its like impossible to get the carbs in or out without the air filters being off the bike. And on top of that you have wire hell right where the choke bridge is, along with an arm wrestle of everything.

But the important thing is they are on and now i just have to fix an exhaust stud. I might fire it tomorrow, ooooooooooo happy day.

So i managed to drill and tap a 3/8-16 helicoil thread into the head. Naturally because the bolt was still down in the head i wasn't able to get a perfectly straight shot. So the studs are no longer centered. So i cut the end off of the muffler clamp so as it bolted down it would still work. All was great up till the point where i put my flare nut. Some ****** at the hardware store must have put it in the wrong place because one i got about 5 threads in, i didn't notice that the nut had frozen in place and was twisting the stud around the helicoil. Damnit, now i'm out of money. Guess i'll just stare at it for a while now.

Also in my blind rage of being pissed i couldn't get a job or afford to make the honda run to sell it i smacked the gas tank with my hand denting it in. I went to CVS, Walgreens, Burger King in plainfield, and White Castle. All had cut hours, no hiring. I"m so frusterated. I dont' even have money to put gas in any of my tanks. The saki is still almost full, so at least i can job hunt on it, the mazda is like a 1/4 tank but i still need an exhaust tip so i don't melt the bumper, and the truck......i dunno a lot but no signals or headlights, and the gf's car has a tire that is going to explode so i don't dare move it.

Things are so bad for me right now, i think i'm starting to break down and freak out over stuff thats not that big of a deal. Like the gas tank, i dont' even know why i decided to hit it. O well though, its not horrible, as soon as i can get 10 bucks i'll put some gas in it, get the exhaust on the L side and crank it.
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I feel for you bro. If you lived down under I'd give you a dishy job in my kitchen for sure. One question: how can you afford internet access if you cant afford fuel? Well at least you got mates in here :)
leethal said:
I feel for you bro. If you lived down under I'd give you a dishy job in my kitchen for sure. One question: how can you afford internet access if you cant afford fuel? Well at least you got mates in here :)
I living on my parents couch.....they have internet and i have my computer set up in the kitchen.

They don't seem to mind me being here all the time but i try to look for jobs at least a few times during the week. Here soon i think they are going to start giving me a little money to afford gas and stuff but i really don't want that. Course i guess its that or i'll end up walking to all the places to apply at only to know they aren't hiring either. I also play grounds keeper and do chores around the house just so i feel like i'm doing something. They don't really ask me to do anything but i get rather pissed off knowing this isn't my home and i'm just squating.

Got some new pics for ya. I dont' have the side covers on since i was wrestling with the retarded clearance the carbs have. I'm also going to begin re-fiberglassing the side covers. I may try to integrate a small air scoop or vent it differently. Never like how they looked or how the intake is opposite from the angled vent that is covered by the legs.

Here's the new battle damage as well after me freaking out about my money situation.
I also hugged the little honda afterwards promising to not do anything like that again. I also realized that tank is DAMN THIN. My kawa tank is indestructable.

Here's the bastard holding me back. Has a new helicoil thread in it. I only had a 3/8"-16 helicoils so i just used it. *sigh* yea part of it is american now. This will undoubtably cause a catastrophic engine failure or the decline of honda sales due to use of standard bolts or something wierd.

And here's where i snapped for a moment.

Sometimes i don't know my own strength i guess. I swear i just slapped it with my palm, i don't remember balling up a fist. But like i said, i can feel how thin it is, and how rock hard my kawasaki's tank is.

Here's one more shot.
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