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CB360 is almost done

16591 Views 165 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  sakibomb
So the other day i got bored and pieced together almost the entire bike. I still need std piston rings but have found a site that has them in stock. I just need the money to order them. However i found some interesting things.

I took apart the main switch and cleaned all the contacts as the headlight and all other lights took a few seconds to "warm up" after which point that would go full power. As in from dim to ....ON. Will i got rid of the corrosion in the connectors and switch contacts. A pain but something that needed care.

Now i was going to look at the last three things bugging me. Now i know i don't REALLY need a high beam indicator since there's a switch for it and i'm inches from the headlight but it bugs me. So i'm tracking that down. The neutral idicator doesn't work, however after finding no cont' between the switch and the case i took the switch out and pressed on it and checked. Switch checks good, i look inside and..................something is missing. Whatever is supposed to press against the switch internally on the shifter is ....gone lol.

So i guess i can consider that problem solved. So i guess i'll just ignore it being that i doubt i can really fix this without separating the case again and thats too much work for a stupid light when i can just click up once and slowly let out on teh clutch. BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT detail.

I have no running tail light. I have a stop, but no tail. The switch cleaning dropped the resistance from 23M ohms to 1.1 ohms. Something i'm very happy to report. However i still have no tail. Fuse is good, but whats up here? I've got a wire diagram in font of me but i'm kinda confused. That and taking a break. After i tape up the wire and have it fixed i'll have some new pics for you guys. Its looking great so far.
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also all the bulbs are good, that thing is retarded to get back together lol.
did some more research, according to my theory i was right about something i noticed on the diagram. My gauges also do not light. I used a jumper wire on my rear tail and it worked fine. I think my issue is the main killswitch/light switch. The brown/black wire from the fuse panel runs straight to it.

But naturally before could do too much more investigating my battery is completely dead. So a few hours from now i'll check it out again. Its not as bad as i thought, i'm just using more knowledge from school and things are getting easier. Good hands on training though. Its been a while since i've had something this fussy lol.
alright, some further research, when i ground the high beam indicator to the battery and flip the high beam switch no blue light on the panel. so i guess my problem is in the panel. Any ideas guys?

Or is there anything with the elctrical system i should know beforehand, like all bulbs must work for something to work or something odd like that?
here's some new pics. Its been a while since i've really had any new posts. Enjoy.

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i've never seen this bike run lol. I got it from my friend and he rode it for two weeks before the engine asplooded. But he was kind of a stupid guy so i'm sure he never noticed the non-running tail and such.

I did jump the tail light and the tail does illuminate with power to it and the stop wil also illuminate. So both filaments do work but as said, it just don't lol. The brown wire i think is fine. I get cont between the brown wire on the switch and the actual tail light connector. The other branch you are asking about does in fact go to where. On the wiring diagram i have from honda it goes into the headlight bucket and just sits as an empty connector. Kinda stupid but ....who knows why its there.

There is a brown/white wire that comes out of the main switch that runs to the fuse panel and also to the tach and speedo gauge. Now the brown/white wire from the main switch goes to the fuse panel, after which becomes a brown/black wire. That goes straight into the killswitch/light switch. So i'm going to guess the issue is there. I would assume the brown/white wire or brown/black wire is supposed to be the power feed. So i'm assuming there is either a short in the handlebar switch or that maybe the contact point is touching the handlebars...which are grounded.

I think honestly my battery is **** as well. Before i hooked it up on the batteyr charger it was at 7 volts and i hadnt charged it since i thought the bike rebuild would take a weekend. I put it on a tender but i think its bad anyway. The inside appears to have a few cells that look like the plates are corroded together and stuff. I haven't verified the voltage now but just the way that things seem to "warm up" kinda makes me wonder. I'm going to put the battery from my kawasaki in it and see if things seem to get better.
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Pfftt, lol

I dont' even understand what the hell happened to this poor thing. There's all sorts of strange odds and ends on it. I'm deteremined to make it a good bike again but its had to have a wierd past. I've had to tweak things, paint parts of it, going to have to tack weld up the exhaust with patchs till i can afford a new exhaust.

Hell, i'm still trying to find an o-ring that will fit the carb bowls. All jets are good, hard for me to pay 30 bucks a carb kit when all i need is the o-ring. Mine need to swell somehow. If i soak them in gas overnight will that swell them too much?
I've thought about a paper gasket. I have a lot of thin cardboard in the garage from other gaskets i've bought.

I did fix the tail. And first i'd like to say i'm completely thrilled at the time i spent taking apart switches only to find they weren't really the problem. But i am happy i did get a chance to clean all contacts. Here's my findings.

The light switch did have 16K ohms so i cleaned the switch contacts up and got it down to 1.1 ohms. Still didn't fix the problem. I placed one lead on the brown/white wire in the main switch and the other lead on he contact point of the brown/black wire. Got 30K ohm.......................grr.

Then i found this while testing.

Want to see how you get 30K ohms............this

Never looked burnt, i must have never used a test light on it either. Its also a 15A so i'll be replacing it with the 7A its supposed to have. More pics though after i fixed it

Before fuse

After fuse

From main switch to light switch contact

and some progress pics. I finally got the std piston rings ordered from bike bandit :D

And the battery i said needs replaced. Half a day after charging and its sitting at 6.3 volts.

I'd say those plates have grown together nicely. So i'm trading that POS in for another in a few days.
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I can't remember for the life of me. When i get the rings i know how they go on, as in what side and stuff but whats the direction the open end needs to point. I know they all need to be like certain angles from each other and the open ends are not supposed to be on the sides of the piston clips right?
Don't worry i'm not one to replace fuses until i find the cause first.

However i think i believe i found it already when i came across all the corroded areas. We'll see what happens when i replace the fuses. Thanks for the tips. I'll take a snapshot once i have a piston done to make sure that i have done it right.
Well i sealed up the pipes today. Got a welder yesterday and played with it for maybe a half hour-45 mins before i used it on the pipes. I had it down pretty good until i picked up the pipes. They were so rusted that even low current 1 second tack welds just cut them like a plasma cutter. But here's what i got. I also tested them for leaks. I just used the smoke from my triple. When its cold it has a habbit of fuming blue smoke out of two cyl's. The other isn't nearly as bad but i just put these up to the those exhaust pipes and watched the smoke roll out the other end. Didn't come out anywhere else.

I also found out the last few mins that switched it to Low 2 that it was acting much better. The welds didn't burn a hole through and were extremely flat but you could see where they penetrated on the other side just from a quick 1-2 second weld. So maybe i should have tried to up the power, i just though low power would be good for this thin metal. I also patched with 22 gauge sheet metal.

And i'm not worried how ugly they look, i just need them until i have some money to afford some nice torpedo style ones.

This also gave me the chance to learn how to control my hands, not nearly as scary as i had thought it would have been.

This was the worst, which i think was the L pipe

Here's the right

Here's where i started to figure out what i was doing wrong.

Can't hurt my feelings with a handsome face like that :D

I also thought this might work as a gasket. I remember talking about rope gaskets a few years ago in class but dont' remember wtf they were for. I'm also soaking the o-rings in PB blaster hoping that will work as a backup plan.

And here's a before pic of the exhaust pipe
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Bird76Mojo said:
Soaking that o-ring in PB Blaster will probably ruin it. They get to be WAY OVERSIZE. A quick wipe on them and they'll still swell up.

GB :mrgreen:

I tried that but they didn't do anything. I soaked them in there for a few hours and tried again and they still didn't expand. I honestly forgot they were in there, i'm sure days later they are bigger than hell. If they don't fit i'll just stick them in the deep freeze. Give it a few mins and try and fit.
tbpmusic said:
sakibomb said:
I tried that but they didn't do anything. I soaked them in there for a few hours and tried again and they still didn't expand. I honestly forgot they were in there, i'm sure days later they are bigger than hell. If they don't fit i'll just stick them in the deep freeze. Give it a few mins and try and fit.
Never been a huge fan of PB Blaster, just never worked that well for me.

Anyway, a quick (less than one hour) soak in Xylol (from a hardware store) is guaranteed to swell up and soften those o-rings (or any rubber part, like intake manifolds, etc.).
Don't worry, they will shrink back.
Ordinary diesel fuel will do the same thing - see the "Hard Rubber" post, here somewhere.......
Sounds like a plan, i'll try them out later. If they didn't swell enough i'll get some diesel. Besides, i hear its a bitchen cleaning product. And a badass penetrating fluid if mixed 50/50 with atf.
Almost got humpty dumpty back together again. Got the rings, and promptly installed my wrist pins. Set each ring 120 from each other and not 90 from the wrist pin. Put the head on and torqued to spec. Checked my camshaft clearance with my feelers and not enough room for a 1.0mm washer. Next i set the cam timing and put the guide tensioner in and set it to the tension....which is pretty easy really considering you don't do much of anything :lol:

Next then was the valve/rocker arm cover. Nice thin layer of hondabond and then dropped it on. This is when i realized that i'm missing 3 bolts. Figures....... one biggen, and two little 6mm's. I'll pick them up today though, not that great of a deal. Put the Positive Crankcase Vent on with its new gasket and hosed it up. Again, missing bolts for my points, didn't see that happening :lol: . I love how this bike is just missing stuff. But considering when i got it most of the parts were in a trash bag and bolts laying a shelf i should be pretty happy i'm only missing 5 at this point.

Anyway, found two bolts in my honda drawer (cars) and oddly enough the bolts for a honda accord window motor are the perfect size for the points. Threaded them in nicely and snugged them down. Now where do the point ends wire up to. I see on the coils a yellow and a blue connector, but the thing is too damn short. Do they wire up near the carbs or do they really have to bend all the way to the coils.

O, and i also got the ride side exhaust on after re-tapping the threads. The L side i still need to drill and tap its hole so i can thread a bolt in. I thought about doing a heli-coil but my dad brought up the idea of just tapping for a bolt i already have. Seems easy enough. Next thing i know 6 hours had passed and i damn near rebuilt the entire bike in one sitting. So i'm taking a break today, i have a few progress pics i'll post later.

I'm so excited, i've rebuilt engines in school but never had the chance to actually start one after i was done.

O and just for piece of mind, i've used engine assembly lube on everything and already rotated the crankshaft a good dozen times nice and slow to make sure valve clearance. My instructor always taught me to use a good amount of engine lube when rebuilding. "If you start it up and it doesn't smoke for a minute, you didn't lube it enough " I took that theory and kept it. I made sure to bath anything with a machined surface or something that could possibly scar another surface on the intial start. Gears, journals, bearings, Cyl name it i got dirty. This is going to be so sweet tomorrow if i get everything back together and another battery. I'm like a kid in a candy store :)
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I also just remebered i was going to check my vavle tappet clearance. Not sure when it was done last but i've done a bazillion measurements. Might as well do it.

MMMM, i think i screwed up the timing. I just for the heck of it threw a compression gauge on and stepped on the kicker. It was so good at first that ihad to stand on it, and then the bike rolled forward and the saki saved it. Busted my side cover but the other is cracked pretty bad so. .............Somehow the saki didn't take any damage. O well, so i kicked it down into nuetral, kick again, bike moves wtf. Tap shifter again, tap up. Ok now its neutral. Somehow the bastard got into like 3rd gear or something weird. Anyway, kicked it a few times and got Zero. I put my hand over the open exhause and no air, no suction on the intake boot. I'm thinking when i set my cam, that i made the lobes point down. Meaning on the exhaust its closed probably and compression its open. I'll look at it later but i'm almost positive thats what i did. I don't remember checking the orientation. Just the cam line and the stator line on LT.

I guess thats what i get for not taking a break. lol
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66Sprint said:
On one of the twins, the condensor wires "jump" from the point wires to the coils with the condenser in the middle (might be the 360) ....on most (and electrically it's the same,) the coil and point wires join at a "twinned" connector, the wire from which then goes to the condenser....
Thats just the bastard i'm looking at. Wow, what a pain.

Anyway update, so i checked it again before pulling the valve cover off. Still nothing. I pulled the cover off and the guide clip at the top to make it easier to rotate the chain. I double checked before i unbolted it and it was actually facing the right wtf. I put all the goodies back on and pull the valve tappet holes off thinking maybe the valves aren't getting pressed down enough. My dad came out at this point to see the progress and he tried kicking it over, after about 10-11 kicks compression shot up to 90psi. :?: :?: :?: So i relived the pressure and changed cyl and i kicked it. 100psi. So confused i let it sit for a few mins thinking the rings or something might leak. I cam back after a short ride around the block on the saki (after new exhaust rubbers :D ) and checked it. Still hangin at 100psi. I relive pressure and kick the hell out of it again, and got zero again. The valves don't appear to be sticking but i'm going to look at some other things. Still kinda clueless whats up though.

Also my carb o-rings finally swelled up enough, actually too much so they are chillin in the deep freeze right now. Going to try short 5 min intervals till they are the right size.
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another update, o-rings are slowly shrinking but hell without a job and no real time for this to run i have all day.

I have noticed my intakes are burping out a lot of compression. I can feel my skin on my palm kicking back when the valves open................ The L and R both do the same. Its like its rotating backwards or something f'd up heh. Could it be that when i put the rockers back in the cover i put them in backwards??? The seem to line up just fine. And i never took the point advance off the camshaft so i'm positive it can only go on one way.
HAH I FIGURED IT OUT :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

New head so could be a different length from the old head. I had to back the hell out of the tappets since there was no clearance. I used my feeler gauge and just did all of them to .002" . I know thats not right but it was just a quick idea. Well take about 5 kicks to get to 120psi in both cyl's. I need to adjust them a bit more since according to the factory manual its supposed to be at 149-171. So i'm going to shoot for 160. Back to work, just thoughti would update. I also don't feel like a complete idiot now. I thought i put something in wrong for a while heh.
Got to a little over 140 and my leg ran out of steam. Its staying there :lol:

Also figured out how the rear brake pedal mounts and springs back again. ....filled er' up with oil. Got the old spark plugs and cleaned them and checked the gap. Got one exhaust pipe on, have to get a bolt for the clamp, but other than that its ready.

L still needs a bolt or stud for the header pipe, a bolt for its muffler clamp and then two nuts to hold the muffler on. Going to try to get a battery tomorrow as well. I have an extra dead car battery and a dead motorcycle battery so i'm going to see if i can do two core charges. Also realized i'm a dumbass and moved the points harness from the R side of the frame to the L side, the points plug in very easy now..... :roll:

I hear tomorrow is crappy so i probably won't try to start it, being the down pour. I also need to rig up a cd full of inspirational music such as Jerry Reeds "Eastbound and Down" or Judas Priest's "Turbo Lover" or maybe even some Alice Cooper "Frankenstein"

Something comical and whatever makes a perfect setting to bring the dead to life again :)
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O, and here's the pics i promised.
New rings

Cylinder jugs dropped on and rings safely installed.

Got the head installed and chain tensioner installed and adjusted

Valve cover back on and sealed up

Everything is on again, minus carbs

CB360 also comes with realistic BATTLE DAMAGE! Come get yours today, only 19.99, use your visa card and we'll throw in "Free Fouled Plugs" We can't do this all day folks so make sure you call now.
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