CB360 is almost done

here's some new pics. Its been a while since i've really had any new posts. Enjoy.

i've never seen this bike run lol. I got it from my friend and he rode it for two weeks before the engine asplooded. But he was kind of a stupid guy so i'm sure he never noticed the non-running tail and such.

I did jump the tail light and the tail does illuminate with power to it and the stop wil also illuminate. So both filaments do work but as said, it just don't lol. The brown wire i think is fine. I get cont between the brown wire on the switch and the actual tail light connector. The other branch you are asking about does in fact go to ...............no where. On the wiring diagram i have from honda it goes into the headlight bucket and just sits as an empty connector. Kinda stupid but ....who knows why its there.

There is a brown/white wire that comes out of the main switch that runs to the fuse panel and also to the tach and speedo gauge. Now the brown/white wire from the main switch goes to the fuse panel, after which becomes a brown/black wire. That goes straight into the killswitch/light switch. So i'm going to guess the issue is there. I would assume the brown/white wire or brown/black wire is supposed to be the power feed. So i'm assuming there is either a short in the handlebar switch or that maybe the contact point is touching the handlebars...which are grounded.

I think honestly my battery is **** as well. Before i hooked it up on the batteyr charger it was at 7 volts and i hadnt charged it since i thought the bike rebuild would take a weekend. I put it on a tender but i think its bad anyway. The inside appears to have a few cells that look like the plates are corroded together and stuff. I haven't verified the voltage now but just the way that things seem to "warm up" kinda makes me wonder. I'm going to put the battery from my kawasaki in it and see if things seem to get better.

I've thought about a paper gasket. I have a lot of thin cardboard in the garage from other gaskets i've bought.

I did fix the tail. And first i'd like to say i'm completely thrilled at the time i spent taking apart switches only to find they weren't really the problem. But i am happy i did get a chance to clean all contacts. Here's my findings.

The light switch did have 16K ohms so i cleaned the switch contacts up and got it down to 1.1 ohms. Still didn't fix the problem. I placed one lead on the brown/white wire in the main switch and the other lead on he contact point of the brown/black wire. Got 30K ohm.......................grr.

Then i found this while testing.



Want to see how you get 30K ohms............this


Never looked burnt, i must have never used a test light on it either. Its also a 15A so i'll be replacing it with the 7A its supposed to have. More pics though after i fixed it

Before fuse


After fuse


From main switch to light switch contact


and some progress pics. I finally got the std piston rings ordered from bike bandit




And the battery i said needs replaced. Half a day after charging and its sitting at 6.3 volts.





I'd say those plates have grown together nicely. So i'm trading that POS in for another in a few days.

Well i sealed up the pipes today. Got a welder yesterday and played with it for maybe a half hour-45 mins before i used it on the pipes. I had it down pretty good until i picked up the pipes. They were so rusted that even low current 1 second tack welds just cut them like a plasma cutter. But here's what i got. I also tested them for leaks. I just used the smoke from my triple. When its cold it has a habbit of fuming blue smoke out of two cyl's. The other isn't nearly as bad but i just put these up to the those exhaust pipes and watched the smoke roll out the other end. Didn't come out anywhere else.

I also found out the last few mins that switched it to Low 2 that it was acting much better. The welds didn't burn a hole through and were extremely flat but you could see where they penetrated on the other side just from a quick 1-2 second weld. So maybe i should have tried to up the power, i just though low power would be good for this thin metal. I also patched with 22 gauge sheet metal.

And i'm not worried how ugly they look, i just need them until i have some money to afford some nice torpedo style ones.

This also gave me the chance to learn how to control my hands, not nearly as scary as i had thought it would have been.

This was the worst, which i think was the L pipe



Here's the right



Here's where i started to figure out what i was doing wrong.





Can't hurt my feelings with a handsome face like that




I also thought this might work as a gasket. I remember talking about rope gaskets a few years ago in class but dont' remember wtf they were for. I'm also soaking the o-rings in PB blaster hoping that will work as a backup plan.



And here's a before pic of the exhaust pipe

Almost got humpty dumpty back together again. Got the rings, and promptly installed my wrist pins. Set each ring 120 from each other and not 90 from the wrist pin. Put the head on and torqued to spec. Checked my camshaft clearance with my feelers and not enough room for a 1.0mm washer. Next i set the cam timing and put the guide tensioner in and set it to the tension....which is pretty easy really considering you don't do much of anything :lol:

Next then was the valve/rocker arm cover. Nice thin layer of hondabond and then dropped it on. This is when i realized that i'm missing 3 bolts. Figures....... one biggen, and two little 6mm's. I'll pick them up today though, not that great of a deal. Put the Positive Crankcase Vent on with its new gasket and hosed it up. Again, missing bolts for my points, didn't see that happening :lol: . I love how this bike is just missing stuff. But considering when i got it most of the parts were in a trash bag and bolts laying a shelf i should be pretty happy i'm only missing 5 at this point.

Anyway, found two bolts in my honda drawer (cars) and oddly enough the bolts for a honda accord window motor are the perfect size for the points. Threaded them in nicely and snugged them down. Now where do the point ends wire up to. I see on the coils a yellow and a blue connector, but the thing is too damn short. Do they wire up near the carbs or do they really have to bend all the way to the coils.

O, and i also got the ride side exhaust on after re-tapping the threads. The L side i still need to drill and tap its hole so i can thread a bolt in. I thought about doing a heli-coil but my dad brought up the idea of just tapping for a bolt i already have. Seems easy enough. Next thing i know 6 hours had passed and i damn near rebuilt the entire bike in one sitting. So i'm taking a break today, i have a few progress pics i'll post later.

I'm so excited, i've rebuilt engines in school but never had the chance to actually start one after i was done.

O and just for piece of mind, i've used engine assembly lube on everything and already rotated the crankshaft a good dozen times nice and slow to make sure valve clearance. My instructor always taught me to use a good amount of engine lube when rebuilding. "If you start it up and it doesn't smoke for a minute, you didn't lube it enough " I took that theory and kept it. I made sure to bath anything with a machined surface or something that could possibly scar another surface on the intial start. Gears, journals, bearings, Cyl walls......you name it i got dirty. This is going to be so sweet tomorrow if i get everything back together and another battery. I'm like a kid in a candy store

I also just remebered i was going to check my vavle tappet clearance. Not sure when it was done last but i've done a bazillion measurements. Might as well do it.

MMMM, i think i screwed up the timing. I just for the heck of it threw a compression gauge on and stepped on the kicker. It was so good at first that ihad to stand on it, and then the bike rolled forward and the saki saved it. Busted my side cover but the other is cracked pretty bad so. .............Somehow the saki didn't take any damage. O well, so i kicked it down into nuetral, kick again, bike moves wtf. Tap shifter again, tap up. Ok now its neutral. Somehow the bastard got into like 3rd gear or something weird. Anyway, kicked it a few times and got Zero. I put my hand over the open exhause and no air, no suction on the intake boot. I'm thinking when i set my cam, that i made the lobes point down. Meaning on the exhaust its closed probably and compression its open. I'll look at it later but i'm almost positive thats what i did. I don't remember checking the orientation. Just the cam line and the stator line on LT.

I guess thats what i get for not taking a break. lol

66Sprint said:

On one of the twins, the condensor wires "jump" from the point wires to the coils with the condenser in the middle (might be the 360) ....on most (and electrically it's the same,) the coil and point wires join at a "twinned" connector, the wire from which then goes to the condenser....

Click to expand...

Thats just the bastard i'm looking at. Wow, what a pain.

Anyway update, so i checked it again before pulling the valve cover off. Still nothing. I pulled the cover off and the guide clip at the top to make it easier to rotate the chain. I double checked before i unbolted it and it was actually facing the right way.......so wtf. I put all the goodies back on and pull the valve tappet holes off thinking maybe the valves aren't getting pressed down enough. My dad came out at this point to see the progress and he tried kicking it over, after about 10-11 kicks compression shot up to 90psi. :?: :?: :?: So i relived the pressure and changed cyl and i kicked it. 100psi. So confused i let it sit for a few mins thinking the rings or something might leak. I cam back after a short ride around the block on the saki (after new exhaust rubbers ) and checked it. Still hangin at 100psi. I relive pressure and kick the hell out of it again, and got zero again. The valves don't appear to be sticking but i'm going to look at some other things. Still kinda clueless whats up though.

Also my carb o-rings finally swelled up enough, actually too much so they are chillin in the deep freeze right now. Going to try short 5 min intervals till they are the right size.

Got to a little over 140 and my leg ran out of steam. Its staying there :lol:

Also figured out how the rear brake pedal mounts and springs back again. ....filled er' up with oil. Got the old spark plugs and cleaned them and checked the gap. Got one exhaust pipe on, have to get a bolt for the clamp, but other than that its ready.

L still needs a bolt or stud for the header pipe, a bolt for its muffler clamp and then two nuts to hold the muffler on. Going to try to get a battery tomorrow as well. I have an extra dead car battery and a dead motorcycle battery so i'm going to see if i can do two core charges. Also realized i'm a dumbass and moved the points harness from the R side of the frame to the L side, the points plug in very easy now..... :roll:

I hear tomorrow is crappy so i probably won't try to start it, being the down pour. I also need to rig up a cd full of inspirational music such as Jerry Reeds "Eastbound and Down" or Judas Priest's "Turbo Lover" or maybe even some Alice Cooper "Frankenstein"

Something comical and whatever makes a perfect setting to bring the dead to life again

O, and here's the pics i promised.
New rings


Cylinder jugs dropped on and rings safely installed.


Got the head installed and chain tensioner installed and adjusted


Valve cover back on and sealed up


Everything is on again, minus carbs


CB360 also comes with realistic BATTLE DAMAGE! Come get yours today, only 19.99, use your visa card and we'll throw in "Free Fouled Plugs" We can't do this all day folks so make sure you call now.