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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the other day i got bored and pieced together almost the entire bike. I still need std piston rings but have found a site that has them in stock. I just need the money to order them. However i found some interesting things.

I took apart the main switch and cleaned all the contacts as the headlight and all other lights took a few seconds to "warm up" after which point that would go full power. As in from dim to ....ON. Will i got rid of the corrosion in the connectors and switch contacts. A pain but something that needed care.

Now i was going to look at the last three things bugging me. Now i know i don't REALLY need a high beam indicator since there's a switch for it and i'm inches from the headlight but it bugs me. So i'm tracking that down. The neutral idicator doesn't work, however after finding no cont' between the switch and the case i took the switch out and pressed on it and checked. Switch checks good, i look inside and..................something is missing. Whatever is supposed to press against the switch internally on the shifter is ....gone lol.

So i guess i can consider that problem solved. So i guess i'll just ignore it being that i doubt i can really fix this without separating the case again and thats too much work for a stupid light when i can just click up once and slowly let out on teh clutch. BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT detail.

I have no running tail light. I have a stop, but no tail. The switch cleaning dropped the resistance from 23M ohms to 1.1 ohms. Something i'm very happy to report. However i still have no tail. Fuse is good, but whats up here? I've got a wire diagram in font of me but i'm kinda confused. That and taking a break. After i tape up the wire and have it fixed i'll have some new pics for you guys. Its looking great so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
did some more research, according to my theory i was right about something i noticed on the diagram. My gauges also do not light. I used a jumper wire on my rear tail and it worked fine. I think my issue is the main killswitch/light switch. The brown/black wire from the fuse panel runs straight to it.

But naturally before could do too much more investigating my battery is completely dead. So a few hours from now i'll check it out again. Its not as bad as i thought, i'm just using more knowledge from school and things are getting easier. Good hands on training though. Its been a while since i've had something this fussy lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
alright, some further research, when i ground the high beam indicator to the battery and flip the high beam switch no blue light on the panel. so i guess my problem is in the panel. Any ideas guys?

Or is there anything with the elctrical system i should know beforehand, like all bulbs must work for something to work or something odd like that?
 

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Regarding the running tail lamp...have you tried fitting a new bulb in the tail piece? Perhaps the running filament it shot while the brake filament is OK? Maybe the bulb socket has corrosion on one terminal?

My color diagram shows the rear running light wire as BROWN. At some point heading up towards the front of the bike it spilts in two, one brown wire goes to the ignition switch, the other brown wire goes to a bulb in the instrument cluster in front. Check continuity at these points.

I'm a little confused also as to which bulb the brown wire luminates...I have 2 separate schematics in front of me and neither lists the actual light function. I also have my dis-assembled clocks and instrument lights in front of me and I dont see a brown wire anywhere aside from the ignition switch. But it does share a common GREEN wire with the headlamp, maybe you can trace it from there and let us know :geek:

Has the running tail light always been dodge, or only since you disected the ignition switch?

Hope we can get to the bottom of this! Keep on keeping on mate :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i've never seen this bike run lol. I got it from my friend and he rode it for two weeks before the engine asplooded. But he was kind of a stupid guy so i'm sure he never noticed the non-running tail and such.

I did jump the tail light and the tail does illuminate with power to it and the stop wil also illuminate. So both filaments do work but as said, it just don't lol. The brown wire i think is fine. I get cont between the brown wire on the switch and the actual tail light connector. The other branch you are asking about does in fact go to ...............no where. On the wiring diagram i have from honda it goes into the headlight bucket and just sits as an empty connector. Kinda stupid but ....who knows why its there.

There is a brown/white wire that comes out of the main switch that runs to the fuse panel and also to the tach and speedo gauge. Now the brown/white wire from the main switch goes to the fuse panel, after which becomes a brown/black wire. That goes straight into the killswitch/light switch. So i'm going to guess the issue is there. I would assume the brown/white wire or brown/black wire is supposed to be the power feed. So i'm assuming there is either a short in the handlebar switch or that maybe the contact point is touching the handlebars...which are grounded.

I think honestly my battery is **** as well. Before i hooked it up on the batteyr charger it was at 7 volts and i hadnt charged it since i thought the bike rebuild would take a weekend. I put it on a tender but i think its bad anyway. The inside appears to have a few cells that look like the plates are corroded together and stuff. I haven't verified the voltage now but just the way that things seem to "warm up" kinda makes me wonder. I'm going to put the battery from my kawasaki in it and see if things seem to get better.
 

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What is it about us 360 people? I dont think there's ONE of us that actually has a road legal bike! I'm talkin' to you...saki, kruk, PJ, Johnny, & myself...has anyone here got a working 360? SHEESH :roll:
 

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Haha so true Lee! When I first picked mine up I don't think I was able to ride the CB360 longer than 30 min without having something happen to it :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pfftt, lol

I dont' even understand what the hell happened to this poor thing. There's all sorts of strange odds and ends on it. I'm deteremined to make it a good bike again but its had to have a wierd past. I've had to tweak things, paint parts of it, going to have to tack weld up the exhaust with patchs till i can afford a new exhaust.

Hell, i'm still trying to find an o-ring that will fit the carb bowls. All jets are good, hard for me to pay 30 bucks a carb kit when all i need is the o-ring. Mine need to swell somehow. If i soak them in gas overnight will that swell them too much?
 

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Not that it will help you, but if you soak a rag in PB Blaster then wipe the oring with it, it will swell up. Probably too much to use though. I speak from experience. :roll:

GB :mrgreen:
 

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I'm NOT saying that this is the ultimate solution, but "back in the day" carb bowl gaskets were paper gaskets..... It should be possible to carefully cut some.... Make sure all the passages stay open (around the brass tube, etc ) but the paper one seals everywhere the O-ring does, and does NOT interfere with the floats..... :shock: :? ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've thought about a paper gasket. I have a lot of thin cardboard in the garage from other gaskets i've bought.

I did fix the tail. And first i'd like to say i'm completely thrilled at the time i spent taking apart switches only to find they weren't really the problem. But i am happy i did get a chance to clean all contacts. Here's my findings.

The light switch did have 16K ohms so i cleaned the switch contacts up and got it down to 1.1 ohms. Still didn't fix the problem. I placed one lead on the brown/white wire in the main switch and the other lead on he contact point of the brown/black wire. Got 30K ohm.......................grr.

Then i found this while testing.



Want to see how you get 30K ohms............this


Never looked burnt, i must have never used a test light on it either. Its also a 15A so i'll be replacing it with the 7A its supposed to have. More pics though after i fixed it

Before fuse


After fuse


From main switch to light switch contact


and some progress pics. I finally got the std piston rings ordered from bike bandit :D




And the battery i said needs replaced. Half a day after charging and its sitting at 6.3 volts.





I'd say those plates have grown together nicely. So i'm trading that POS in for another in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I can't remember for the life of me. When i get the rings i know how they go on, as in what side and stuff but whats the direction the open end needs to point. I know they all need to be like certain angles from each other and the open ends are not supposed to be on the sides of the piston clips right?
 

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You want the openings 120 degrees apart... I usually put the oil ring open "pointing" at the intake side so the "smooth" curve is "lowest near the oil"...(BUT, I usually do "slopers" (305's, 160's, the "out front" singles, and of course, the Harley Sprints) ... Regardless, this places the other two openings 30 degrees away from and in front of the gudgeon pin clips...... With a three piece oil ring, I 120 the sections as well.....

Oh yea, Find the reason the 15amp fuse blew before you kill a new battery....Yes, the old one is sulfated and definately DEAD....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don't worry i'm not one to replace fuses until i find the cause first.

However i think i believe i found it already when i came across all the corroded areas. We'll see what happens when i replace the fuses. Thanks for the tips. I'll take a snapshot once i have a piston done to make sure that i have done it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well i sealed up the pipes today. Got a welder yesterday and played with it for maybe a half hour-45 mins before i used it on the pipes. I had it down pretty good until i picked up the pipes. They were so rusted that even low current 1 second tack welds just cut them like a plasma cutter. But here's what i got. I also tested them for leaks. I just used the smoke from my triple. When its cold it has a habbit of fuming blue smoke out of two cyl's. The other isn't nearly as bad but i just put these up to the those exhaust pipes and watched the smoke roll out the other end. Didn't come out anywhere else.

I also found out the last few mins that switched it to Low 2 that it was acting much better. The welds didn't burn a hole through and were extremely flat but you could see where they penetrated on the other side just from a quick 1-2 second weld. So maybe i should have tried to up the power, i just though low power would be good for this thin metal. I also patched with 22 gauge sheet metal.

And i'm not worried how ugly they look, i just need them until i have some money to afford some nice torpedo style ones.

This also gave me the chance to learn how to control my hands, not nearly as scary as i had thought it would have been.

This was the worst, which i think was the L pipe



Here's the right



Here's where i started to figure out what i was doing wrong.





Can't hurt my feelings with a handsome face like that :D




I also thought this might work as a gasket. I remember talking about rope gaskets a few years ago in class but dont' remember wtf they were for. I'm also soaking the o-rings in PB blaster hoping that will work as a backup plan.



And here's a before pic of the exhaust pipe
 

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Soaking that o-ring in PB Blaster will probably ruin it. They get to be WAY OVERSIZE. A quick wipe on them and they'll still swell up.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bird76Mojo said:
Soaking that o-ring in PB Blaster will probably ruin it. They get to be WAY OVERSIZE. A quick wipe on them and they'll still swell up.

GB :mrgreen:

I tried that but they didn't do anything. I soaked them in there for a few hours and tried again and they still didn't expand. I honestly forgot they were in there, i'm sure days later they are bigger than hell. If they don't fit i'll just stick them in the deep freeze. Give it a few mins and try and fit.
 

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sakibomb said:
I tried that but they didn't do anything. I soaked them in there for a few hours and tried again and they still didn't expand. I honestly forgot they were in there, i'm sure days later they are bigger than hell. If they don't fit i'll just stick them in the deep freeze. Give it a few mins and try and fit.
Never been a huge fan of PB Blaster, just never worked that well for me.

Anyway, a quick (less than one hour) soak in Xylol (from a hardware store) is guaranteed to swell up and soften those o-rings (or any rubber part, like intake manifolds, etc.).
Don't worry, they will shrink back.
Ordinary diesel fuel will do the same thing - see the "Hard Rubber" post, here somewhere.......
 
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