[the_great_escape]

I recently rebuilt the lower half of my '75 CB360 engine (cracked the cases, etc.) and I'm now in the process of remounting the engine and putting everything back together. When I put the clutch plates back in, I noticed something weird: with the engine in neutral, the real wheel spins normally if the clutch plates aren't in. If I put them in, there's so much drag the wheel barely spins; if I apply any pressure to the plates (far less than would be applied by the springs and the pressure plate), the wheel becomes impossible to move. These are new friction plates and springs from Common Motor and I've just soaked them in oil for 48 hours. I also made sure all of the clutch B plates are facing the same way. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

 

[misterguitar]

is the cover that has the clutch adjuster on? Has the clutch been adjusted per the manual?

 

[the_great_escape]

is the cover that has the clutch adjuster on? Has the clutch been adjusted per the manual?

Yes and yes. If I squeeze the clutch, I can see the clutch center pushing out as expected. That shouldn't have an effect on the wheel spinning in neutral though, correct?

 

[frogman79]

In neutral the rear wheel should spin fairly freely regardless of where the clutch is. You should be able to hold onto the clutch basket and turn the rear wheel without having the clutch turn.

Are you sure its in neutral?

 

[doode]

With plates off, can you spin the main shaft independently of the counter shaft?
Can you spin the clutch basket?
Any binding on any of these?

 

[the_great_escape]

In neutral the rear wheel should spin fairly freely regardless of where the clutch is. You should be able to hold onto the clutch basket and turn the rear wheel without having the clutch turn.

Are you sure its in neutral?

It was, but that gave me the idea of taking the oil filter and clutch basket off to see if there was any difference. The binding happens when the gear behind the oil filter (the one that is connected to the crankshaft) is in place, which suggests (to me) that something is causing the crankshaft to stick. Before I take the engine off again, I also replaced the cam chain tensioner and cam chain guide - could that be the problem by putting too much pressure on the drive chain?

 

[misterguitar]

In neutral it should not be spinning the crankshaft at all. Sounds like its in gear. I took mine part a year or so ago and found if you are missing one of the washers on the drive shaft it will have shift problems. (and not go into neutral) I also learned it is easy to put the bottom case back on and think you have all the pins on the shift forks aligned right with the groove sin the shift drum, but then get it assembled and find it won't shift!

 

[the_great_escape]

In neutral it should not be spinning the crankshaft at all. Sounds like its in gear. I took mine part a year or so ago and found if you are missing one of the washers on the drive shaft it will have shift problems. (and not go into neutral)

This wouldn't happen to be a thicker washer, would it? There's one left over from the rebuild that I couldn't place.

I also learned it is easy to put the bottom case back on and think you have all the pins on the shift forks aligned right with the groove sin the shift drum, but then get it assembled and find it won't shift!

Did you figure out a way to test without putting the whole case back together? Or is just adjust and pray? :roll:

 

[frogman79]

Lol left over parts are never a good thing when it's things like that.

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[the_great_escape]

A few updates:

First, I determined the washer (pictured below) is a 10mm ID washer. I went through the CB360 parts fiche and accounted for all of the 10mm washers, so I don't think this actually came from the engine, but I'm posting the pictures below in case anyone recognizes it.

Second, I've cracked the cases again, checked everything was in place, and put the transmission back in as shown below.

Before I put everything back together: the transmission is in neutral, I've also got the shift drum stopper off so that doesn't accidentally interfere, and the primary drive gear and clutch outer are in place. I can turn the engine over, but only if I use a wrench on the alternator bolt - otherwise it's too hard. Is this normal? If so, I'm guessing my whole problem was due to the shift drum stopper not moving properly. View attachment 211457 View attachment 211465

 

[frogman79]

Well with pistons in place in their bores it should require some force and or tools to get the crank to turn. Piston rings drag on the inside of the bores which is what creates compression in the first place

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[the_great_escape]

Well with pistons in place in their bores it should require some force and or tools to get the crank to turn. Piston rings drag on the inside of the bores which is what creates compression in the first place

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Ok, good - thank you for confirming!

 

[the_great_escape]

In case anyone else comes across this thread in the future: I had managed to deform the collar on the shifter at some point and that was preventing it from moving properly. Replaced the collar with another one from eBay and I was good to go.