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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1975 CB360 runs well. Clutch is the problem. Symptom- clutch is clunking on downshifts and also the engine seems to "engine brake" after letting go of the throttle. Could clutch pack or clutch basket be loose?
 

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No. This is more old style riding wearing out the clutch. I do not downshift per say, meaning, I engine brake in the higher gear I'm in. I use the clutch only to click down the trans for stops. Yes, I downshift if sporting it. Yes I downshift when the engine lugs.

But for this kind of work, the clutch is more a hair trigger kind of adjustment. So for clutch action symptoms, the first adjustment is a loose clutch cable. At the screw adjust, it's lightly seated, if not the instant it begins to touch, back out a 1/4 turn and lock it. Take up the slack at the other end of the cable, then finalize at the perch's thumb wheel and screw.

Then it's almost zero gap at the lever to perch, the thumb wheel locked by hand so out in the field you don't need a pliers to loosen it. Now for the action at the lever:
1. Lever is at the grip: The clutch feed begins to grab just off the grip = Still has material left, strong spring tension, no slip.
2. Lever is more near the perch: This says the plates are worn, has to engage deeper before the plates begin to bite. Weak tension on springs growing taller or more if looking at it return to static length, to clutch slipping or about to >> under heavy loads.

The engine braking is more at the end of the video. This saves wear when feeding each gear change, where the rear wheel does not time in to the engine speed. So you more eliminate 2 of the 4 in the loop. The loop being wheel/engine/throttle hand/foot shift. Just the throttle and foot shift timing eliminates clutch wear.

 

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Yes, circlipped on, rubber cush drive...

View CMSNL com exploded views to see clutch, and rear wheel...

I would start at rear wheel...

Busy day ahead for me and it's dry today here...
 

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I would be checking much more than chain tension in the rear wheel area, see the CMSNL exploded views.

Start at the rear wheel and check stuff all the way to the engine. If all that checks out as ok, then check out the clutch parts in the engine.

Pictures pictures pictures...
 

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This is going to be too simple a test, where there is no need to open up the clutch, unless I'm reading the info wrong.

So after the clutch adjustment, does it grind in gear, creep when it does, and hard to find N? All those questions should say no. Then there is no problem with the clutch system.

As stated, you set the screw 'in' more or less and this now will point to the more worn clutch pack. Does the engagement of the clutch have the lever more towards the perch? Then it's on the worn side.

Does the clutch slip at high rpm, is in a taller gear to force more load to hold the plates from slipping? No. Then the pack is worn, but not worn enough to change out the pack yet.

Make sense on the whole system check, rather than finding nothing all spattered apart?
 

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Clutch drum loose on gearing, loose on splines, cush drive buggered, too much play on gear and spigot, spring bolts loose etc. Etc. Etc....or a problem with the final drive like a loose front sprocket, buggered chain, adjustment, loose/deteriorated cush drive, loose drive pins, wobbly sprocket on spigot etc. Etc. Etc....

Start at the rear wheel and make your way to the engine.....

Post a video of the engine running in neutral and blip the throttle, post a vidio of engine running on centre stand with engine in gear, say top gear ( make sure it's safe to do that ) and blip the throttle...the owners never tell us everything, even when face to face
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have not had the time to ride it yet. I put newer clutch discs and pressure plate on and need to take for a ride. I will let you know how it goes. Hang in there Drydreamer.....
 
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