In my reassembly I did mistakenly apply three-bond to the surfaces recommended in this video, looks like I did have the foresight to consider this oiling issue
I was a bit curious about what Brendan says in this video about torquing those two bolts down first and warping the casting. When I torque down bolts in sequence, I do so in gradual increments, therefore repeating the star pattern several times before I get the "click" from my torque wrench.
I can't speak to any of the issues with the 360 cam and oiling as I only owned one new back when they first came out and never worked on the top end of one before getting out of the Honda shops, but I can speak to a lack of confidence in some of what Brendan says and does... so, the old "grain of salt" applies as far as I'm concerned
Those 10mm bolts require a very minimal amount of torque somewhere between 5 and 8 lbs. That's just over hand tight so I don't see them bending that casting, its pretty heavy in that area. I've had about 3-4 of these heads apart, never seen any 3 bond on those to parts and for what it is worth it is supposed to go on paper thin as those are all machined surfaces, you don't want any more tolerance in those areas. Many people put WAY too much sealant on that surface as it is. Either way you are talking about an added tolerance that I doubt you could measure, literally the thickness of a piece of paper if that. I usually put a bit on the end of my finger and wipe it on all of the surfaces until I can just barely see the aluminum under it. Then I let it DRY, makes a perfect permanent gasket, don't get any leaks either.
What he doesn't show is that usually when the center bearing goes it also eats the left side valve rockers. This is due to the fact that side has minimal oil flow at STARTUP and HIGH RPM continuous running. That side of the engine is the LAST area on the entire thing to get oil so the center bearing being eaten is just the last step in the process. I have always recommended that if you are going to park your bike for longer than a day leave it up on center stand because the bike leans to the left, which pretty much lets the oil flow right back down the feed hole on that side so when you start the bike back up it has minimal to no oil on that side. Look at how that side is casted, there is a channel that allows that bathtub to reach that hole without having to deal with the squish of the camshaft. ALWAYS start this engine and let it IDLE until you hear it quiet down before hammering the throttle.
Side note on the drilling of the center bearing for the oil hole. Yes you need to find one of the castings that has the flat surface on the points side. NO you do not need a MILLING machine to get the job done. It takes a steady hand, good gun drill and a long drill bit. Been there done that recommend it to anyone looking to save that journal, on my bike I even plugged that groove casting in the left side so the oil has to flow over the top of that bearing before it can get out of the journal into that bath tub. Had the engine apart not all that long ago after at least 500 miles and no major issues are showing yet.
PJ's mod to the oil blow off valve in the side cover to allow more oil flow is better option as that helps the engine to get more oil at all speeds. These pumps will push a considerable amount oil compared to piston types so that is never a bad thing.
You want to save that journal? Change the oil when you are supposed to or at 1000 miles, don't rev the crap out of the engine at startup and don't run over 7k RPM for extended periods of time. Keep the cam chain tight as well, but that is for other reasons. I'm with Tom, grain of salt, non issue type of thing but whatever floats your boat or blows your skirt up have at it.
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