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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok y'all,

I recently purchased an old CB360 seat from a member of the "Do The Ton" forum for $40, and after a lot of prodding around and elbow grease, I managed to get the seat cover and metal trim removed YAY! What I discovered underneath was something strange entirely! The top surface of the seat pan was caked in rust, close to 90% of it. I will have at it with a wire wheel tomorrow to see what damage I can do to the rust. If I am unsuccessful I will look for someone in the Chicago NW Suburbs area to sandblast it on the spot. On the bright side, the seat cover is in good shape to be reused for the cushion, the metal seat trim is intact, and the foam is reusable as well! Pics below:

Creature from the black lagoon/seat pan after removal of cover and foam:



Seat cover and trim hanging around:


Seat foam ready to be trimmed down:


I am currently waiting for a CB175 tank from Steve (66Sprint) to come in so I can start shaping the "cowling", but this seat pan deserves a lot of attention right now.
 

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I think you'll find that when or if you blast that pan, it may have a lot more and bigger holes than you thought. Sorry to rain on your parade there Kruk.. Also, tell that guy that you want part of your money back. That was WAY too expensive! :shock:

P.S. My previous experiences with sandblasting tell me so. I hope yours go better!

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bird76Mojo said:
I think you'll find that when or if you blast that pan, it may have a lot more and bigger holes than you thought. Sorry to rain on your parade there Kruk.
ARGH! I was afraid of that! I am going to try beating the rust the old fashioned way with a wire wheel and see if that prevents this from happening. I really do not want to trash my other recently refurbished seat to do this :roll:
 

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I'm sure you'll still be able to use that pan. It'll just have some "speed holes" :lol: The wire wheel sounds like the way to go. It'll probably do less damage than blasting..

If not then before you look for another one, let me see what I can find for you. I may be able to get one dirt cheap if need be.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bird76Mojo said:
I'm sure you'll still be able to use that pan. It'll just have some "speed holes" :lol: The wire wheel sounds like the way to go. It'll probably do less damage than blasting..

If not then before you look for another one, let me see what I can find for you. I may be able to get one dirt cheap if need be.

GB :mrgreen:
Thanks GB!

In other news, Steve's CB175 tank came in a few minutes ago and it is in MUCH better shape than this seat pan :lol:. It is exactly what I was thinking of in terms of "cowling" shape and once Christmas is over with I will take a crack and sanding it down and chopping it. Just giving you another shout out for saving my newbie azz Steve! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also don't mind if there are a few more "speed holes" (nice Simpsons reference!), I just hope my butt doesn't snap this thing in half when I try to sit on it :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here is that CB175 tank. Its in pretty decent shape but I won't touch this stuff till after Christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK I had a little time yesterday and today to work on this side project. I got a new wire wheel for the old electric drill, some 100 grit sandpaper, and went to town on the seat pan. The wire wheel got rid of the top layer of rust from the pan, but to get to the shiny metal the sandpaper was king. I was burning through a 1/4 sheet of sandpaper per square inch (to get to the bare metal) so I think sandblasting should be ok.



Once I gave up, I decided to work on the tank. The paint that was on there was slapped on pretty darn good, even though I let the tank sit in some paint stripper. I might have to get it sandblasted as well. I used the low-tech way of cutting the tank using a hacksaw, scroller saw, and bending and fatiguing the metal till the two halves separated. I will ask my dad for some help getting rid of the bottom of the tank half sometime soon.



Today has been a mixed blessing. We have mid 50 degree weather in the Chicago suburbs, but it is raining non stop, epoxy painting will have to wait some more...
 

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You and your dad should'nt have too much trouble getting that tank apart. If you grind down the seams on the bottom edge you'll start to see them splitting apart.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
GAMD5 said:
You may find this film helpful:-http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-remove-rust.Regards Chris
:idea:
I am going to try this out tomorrow. I have a charger of constant 10 amps, is that a problem?
 

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I'd think that's too much juice Kruk. You might have some luck with an old cell phone charger or similar. Just look at the output rating on it. Anything with a 10-12 volt output is fine, but you're looking for something running lower amperages.

Better do plenty of research on this one first.. :idea:

GB :mrgreen:
 

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When I first came across this video I was a bit sceptical too.I did my seat base first as previous ones I had blasted removed too much metal and sides were split and far too thin.I did my own reasearch by trial & error.I've found brown rust froth will always appear on surface of solution.Keep skimming this off and see if you get some more.When bubbles & reaction appears to have finished I always add a bit more soda,you can see an instant reaction and bubbles appear again straight away,I keep going until no more brown froth appears.It may take a lot longer than the video says but it does work even on the insides of petrol tanks however it will destroy painted surfaces so be careful & test things first.
Regards Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am trying it out anyway, hopefully nothing too bad happens :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good question. The charger is one of those tenders that isn't always on. Plus its an old tender so its not 100% DC that is going in the circuit. By attaching the battery in between it cleans out so its pure DC and actually forces the reaction. The tender keeps the battery from dying.

When I had this set up w/o the battery, the tender just sat there without any visible reaction, and it indicated that it was plugged in, but no charging whatsoever. The trick above is something I read up online.
 

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I think I get it.. You're actually forcing the charger into charging 100% of the time. By thinking the battery is low, the charger will kick back on and stay on for longer.

Is this right??

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You've got it sir! I can't wait to see the results 48 hours later
 

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Hi Chris from the UK.Well I started this rear number plate mounting off about 4 hours ago.You should get results like this all the time very quickly if your'e doing it right.Mines straight off a standard 12volt charger set on rapid -reads about 3 amps at moment.Lets have another pic to see your results please.I just guessed the soda and put plenty in.
 

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One other thing,the video shows the battery lead to the object IN the solution clipped to your object,yours isn't.Now I'm no expert but will it work or slow it down the way youv'e connected it?Regards Chris.
 
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