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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I've been riding all month, and have had no big problems, aside from a few oil leaks from under-tightened bolts, until today.

Last night, as I put my bike in my garage, I plugged in a battery tender (still haven't done the regulator/rectifier upgrade), but accidentally left the kill switch on, with the key in the ignition. I went out this morning, to find that my battery was completely dead. It looks like the tender wasn't completely plugged in, or maybe the ignition coils were draining the battery the whole night.

I put a new battery in, and rode to work, but the engine died at every intersection, and was very slow to accelerate until about 3-4 thousand rpm, when I could feel the other cylinder running, but only in bursts. When I got to work, I unplugged the spark plugs, and found that only the left cylinder runs at idle, and the right cylinder is the one that's giving me problems.

I think maybe because of how I left the bike with the kill switch and ignition both on, that the ignition coil or condenser is burned out. Is this possible? is there any way I can check to see if this is the problem?
 

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Premium Member
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Leaving the key on has a good chance of frying a coil.

Check/adjust your points.

Connect an extra spark plug to the right plug wire and hold the plug against the engine. Start the bike. Do you have spark on the right side?
 

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Premium Member
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2nd on fried the coil. Usually at least one set of points is closed and with the Key -ON and Kill Switch - ON that coil will overheat.

The internal windings are only insulated by a Varnish/Shelac Coating and when they overheat that coating breaks down and the windings short out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I checked that both spark plugs were sparking, and then cleaned and regapped the right cylinder points, and it's working again! The points must have just had some deposits on them
 

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Sensei
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27,160 Posts
CHANGING the GAP of either set of points CHANGES THEIR TIMING......
RIGHT cylinder points are set for the correct "breaking point" by adjusting their GAP.....
Gap left points....turn plate so left points break at the exact LF alignment.....LOCK DOWN the plate and leave it there....
Adjust right GAP until it breaks EXACTLY at the F alignment, and CHECK that it's gap (at furthest open) is somewhere between .012" and .016"...ANYWHERE in there is good....
Gaps fo NOT have to be the same, just within specs.....The breaking at exact alignment MUST be correct.....
 
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