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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've followed the clutch adjustment procedure over and over but I can't seem to get it to work right. The shifting around 1st-neutral-2nd is sometimes a little too clunky and sometimes it won't shift at all around those gears and I really have to force it. The latter is usually when I'm stopped.

That problem is intermittent but more consistently I've been having a problem with the clutch lurching when I release the clutch lever. It's as though it's suddenly gripping rather than progressively gripping, and I can't "feather" the clutch to smoothly start from a stop--- instead it's very rough and I've been stalling frequently.

What could be the problem?

Edit: every guide also mentions not to lose the ball bearing under the actuator arm (some have mentioned a 1/4" ball?). I have what looks like a ring with 3 little little balls on it--- is the item mentioned? anyone have photos of what the bearing looks like?
 

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The Clutch BALL sits at the end of the Push Rod Shaft.

That shaft is spinning from the Clutch Basket turning at the other end.

See pic's:

This 1st pic shows the Ball as #21
ClutchBall-1.JPG


This 2nd shows how the parts stack together with the Push Rods Shaft resting on the Ball as #10
Clutch Ball.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, I've confirmed my actuator arm assembly is correct. Also I should mention that I have lubricated my clutch cable very well. What could account for the clunky/difficult shifting and lurching, rough clutch action?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I have the ball. I have not serviced the basket. When i adjust the clutch cable to so there is no play, i have been getting the clutch "pop" where the cable suddenly goes completely slack until something snaps back into place.
 

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I have the ball. I have not serviced the basket. When i adjust the clutch cable to so there is no play, i have been getting the clutch "pop" where the cable suddenly goes completely slack until something snaps back into place.
That's because the adjustment at both ends of the cable are out too far. The 3-ball plate rotates with the changes in cable adjustments and eventually rotates far enough that it jumps out of the 3 ramps that work with the 3 balls on the plate. That's why the cable goes slack. You should decrease the adjustments at both ends of the cable all the way (leave 1/2 a trun out on the lever) and then make the adjustment at the screw adjuster on the lifter assembly, then when most of the slack is taken up by the lifter mechanism itself, adjust the lower cable adjustment first and use the lever adjuster for fine tuning afterward (always try to leave the lever adjuster with the cable slot down when finished so rain/water won't run into it). then, final adjust the lever to the minimum amount of free slack in the lever before the cable actually begins to move the lifter (generally less than 1/4" gap at the lever and perch, closer to 1/8", but be sure the clutch fully engages while there is some free lever movement). Too little slack could make the clutch slip under load. If the lurching continues, it could be the edges of the clutch basket where the tabs on the friction plates slide when the clutch is disengaged or engaged. If the basket has ridges in those areas the plates could be catching on the ridges during engagement, hence servicing the basket
 
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