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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, new member here. Just want to toss together a progress thread on a CB350 I just picked up. No pictures of the bike yet, don't really want to "call out" the previous owner/builder even though he seems inactive here now. I'll put up some pics once its decently modified to my taste (though I'm sure some people might recognize the bike still).

*** Ignore this post if you don't want to read a boring, long-winded story. ***

Little history from his build thread. Bike was ground up rebuilt budget cafe style from multiple parts bikes. Engine was rebuilt by him as well. From his posts, I can tell he really took his time and did his best to not half ass anything (though "budget rebuild" are still the keywords). Some days I regret paying the price I did, but other times, I felt that it was worth the time he put into the bike. Everything sells for a premium in the SF Bay area anyways.

So I went to check out the bike and took it for a test ride. The PO was a standup guy (or really good at selling it). We went through the routine, he was constantly telling me about quirks of these vintage bikes (shutting petcock off, keeping battery on tender, hand crank a few times before kicking, ect...). Nothing really felt off during the test ride, though his clubman/rearset ergos was bugging me a little so I probably missed a lot. That and the excitement of riding a new bike. Handshake, signed papers, and off I went 15-20 mile ride home. (PO even double checked tire pressures while I was gearing up... again, stand up guy or good at selling it).

Now I guess the 20 mile freeway ride gave the bike a good shaking and that's when I thought I might been bamboozled. It started leaking a bit here and there and a good smell of oil after I parked it. Changed the oil right away when I got back and definitely a noticeable smell of gas. Leaks on the lower case gaskets on both sides, minor, but there. The stator cover was leaking at the 3 bolts which I'm guessing might be missing the 3 o rings. I didn't even know there would be o rings there until I looked at a parts diagram. Anyways, wiped everything down for another ride the following day to see how much of it was new leak and how much was old.

Next day, took the bike out for a few miles. Rearsets(homemade) still bugging me and lots of vibration, slop, and very aggressive. Now the clutch started to slip at random rpms and at random times. This happened maybe 3-4 times during coffee shop run. I noticed my clutch hand was also dying from the clutch pull (I like to shift a lot). Figured the clutch cable needed adjusting, but it was "rideable" so I put it on the back burner. Bike sat until the next weekend. I adjusted the rearsets angle a little and added some shims to get more clearance. Perfect day for a ride, was suppose to be a simple adjustment and go. Went to take the bike around the block to test the adjusted rearsets and I couldn't rev out first gear. Clutch would slip maybe at 4k so I had to do that clutch cable adjustment I was putting off. (I say "I" but it is really my cousin. I just handed tools and towels). This was the first time I did the adjustment so half was guess work and deciphering writeups and service manuals. Finally we got it set feeling pretty decent and my cousin tested it around the block. No slippage up to redline. Great, I gear up, jump on. We close the garage and yep, it slips. Rinse and repeat 3x and I finally just jumped on my modern bike and rode that instead.

We took the cover off this and started inspecting the clutch actuator this time and noticed something was missing... not the ball bearing everyone says to check, but one of the 3 bearings on the flat disk piece. How did the bike run in traffic the day I bought it where I was shifting 1-2-3-2-1 the whole time... I don't know. Also how does that ball go missing... I don't know. It actually took me quite a while to google the size of that bearing since no one really ever lose that piece. (I ordered one off CL and those bearings are clamped in place! There's no way for them to fall out...). Anyways, hit up home depot the next day and got 3 bearings of the closest size (they only had standard sizes not metric) and there we go, no more slippage.

However, that was not the end of it... after the test ride, I started noticing oil leaking from that area. I pulled up the parts diagram and noticed there was suppose to be a gasket at the end of the rod. The PO, quite ingeniously, put a little piece of metal tubing over the rod so it seals against the cover. With enough pressure, it kind of seals it off, but only if the bike is stored on the center stand. A little annoyed with all the leaks, I went ahead and just ordered a full gasket kit to replace over the winter.

With that sorted, next order of business was to address the vibration and rearsets. But before I could get to that, another problem arose. The bike didn't want to rev past 6k. With a very slow roll on throttle, I might been able to get it to 7 or 8, but it wasn't liking it. It felt like it hit a wall. Pulled the plugs, did a compression test 167/180. Both plugs were showing signs of running rich and the 180 side looked the darkest and might been oil fouled. Or it could have been the PB blaster as the plugs were in there much tighter than it should have been. Gaps weren't even but within spec range. Put in new plugs and ready to test ride. (BTW ngk must have like a +/- 50% margin of error in their "pregapped" plugs...). Now the bike wouldn't kick over. Idk how long my cousin spent chasing his tail, but in the end he plugged up a spare car battery and it fired right up. I didn't know the gauges were backlit until now haha. Next morning, bought a new battery and finally had a decent ride after maybe 3 weeks of owning the bike. Bike revs all the way now but little flatspot in power around 5-6k.

Now back to the rearsets. Little sad that I had to do it, but the only option was to lose them. Stock pegs have nice fat rubber and are in an almost comfortable position (would been perfect if they were set back maybe 2"-3"). Sourced a new bar since the mounting points were cut off, and new pedals. I got a non linkage shifter pedal but noob mistake, it didn't clear the stator cover. Brake pedal was also bent, though that wasn't the biggest issue. The 2-to-1 custom exhaust gets in the way of the rear brake pedal. I have like 1/2" of travel which pretty much means no rear brake. Ordered a emgo shifter pedal and left the brake alone for now. With the new shifter that clamps directly onto the rod, and a working clutch actuator, shifting feels so much better. Next is to get full length levers so I can use all 4 fingers.

Next post will address the issues I'm currently trying to figure out. What I've learned so far... cafe is cool but stick with oem.

Here's some teasers.
IMG-4397 (640x480).jpg
350 in the corner.
IMG-4394 (640x480).jpg
My dog (taro) in a box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So here I'm at now.

Bike is running rich, compression on right side seems high, smoke out of exhaust when I blip in neutral, smoke out of breather tube, little bit of gas coming out of overflow tube.

The gas in the tank is fresh 91oct. I added maybe 4oz of seafoam (skeptical but it's cheap). I replaced emgo pods with uni filters (I'll probably look for stock airbox in the future). Based on PO's threads, he tried upsizing jets but went back to stock. Hoping uni filters have less restriction. Smoke from exhaust whenever I throttle in neutral or downshift. I held a sheet of paper behind it and it left a cool mist that kind of evaporated and black specks (oil?) that didn't. Noticeable puffs of smoke from the breather that dissipates after a few inches. Held a paper towel up to it and it wasn't so pressurized that it shook the paper nor did it saturate or leave black specks on the paper like the exhaust did. I checked the oil before every ride lately and it's still top of the mark (dipped the stick in, did not screw it down) so even with all the leaks and seemingly burning oil, it's not burning that much.

Today I cleaned off the breather tube and overflow tubes before I took it out for 10 miles. When I got back, I noticed a wet spot underneath the breather tube after the bike sat for 30-1hour. There has also been a smell of gas in the garage so I took a paper towel to the overflow tubes. They would leave a slightly wet ring when I dab them, but no drips. Probably going to inspect the petcock next to see if it leaks in off position. Oil still smells clean, but I might just be high off the gas leaking from the tube. Need to smell it with some fresh air in the morning.

I also ordered some oem headers and new longer mufflers. I'm thinking the shorty 2-into-1 might not have enough scavenging which I'm guessing is leading to rich conditions with stock jetting. This will also fix the brake pedal clearance issue and dual mufflers just look better imo.

All the way at the bottom of my todo list is to true the wheels because they seriously wobble. Not really noticeable going straight and at city speeds, but in a nice sweeper... I'm glad I don't skimp on gear and have plenty of clean underwear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
stuzzy77, I have a feeling that I got a bit of work cut out for me. I am probably getting some fuel into my oil from my petcock. I noticed that the inline filter fills up about half way after a week of sitting even with the petcock in off. When I turn the petcock to on, most of it goes into the bowls immediately. I will have to address that pretty soon. I've read that it could be overheating or the rings as well. I don't think it is overheating from running lean, but I'm guessing diluted oil will cause that issue. My compression is 167/180 so I'm not too sure what that says about the rings. The custom exhaust on the bike (not the greatest design) runs right below the drain plug so it was quite messy when I changed the oil the first time. I'll do another oil change in couple days when my stock headers come in and I take that 2into1 off.

I still have my bottle of seafoam so I decided to make a smoke show because why not. Warmed up the bike, pulled the filters off and spritzed the seafoam out of a bottle into each intake. I noticed when I sprayed into the left carb, the idle will drop which I assume is normal. However, when I sprayed into the right carb, there was no effect. What can this mean? Taking apart the carbs and giving them a service is up there on my list along with dealing with the petcock, but if someone knows what this might indicate, it would give me something to look for when the carbs are apart.

So back to the smoke show, well there was none. Couple puffs when I spray into the left, nothing from the right. I let the bike sit for few minutes then started it back up and it had a couple puffs but no blown head gasket kind of show. Took the bike around a bit and if this was a seafoam commercial, I would say "wow! it's running like new!" but this isn't and I couldn't tell any difference. I pulled the plugs after and cranked the motor around a bit to see if it looked a bit cleaner but honestly I forgot what most of it looked like the first time I checked. The spots that stood out the first time with a bit of buildup still had buildup. I have to admit that I didn't do a full seafoam treatment though since I stopped once I noticed the difference between the right and left carbs. So seafoam might work, but I probably have other problems I have to address.

And finally, here's a picture of my plugs.
IMG-4465 (640x475).jpg

I don't have much experience reading these but they look like between ok and slightly hot to me based on the chart floating around here. My original plugs were pretty black but it was also running on emgo pods. These plugs are after 10-15 miles with uni filters.
 

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Those plugs look good to me.

Good cheap tool is to get a laser thermometer (20 bucks)... and go through each side symmetrically ... at the head, at the outlet ... at the manifold ... at the tip of the muffler.

Itll show you where your potential failure is.

Also great for finding battery draw issues. Good tool to have.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I have one of those so I'll test it out next time and see what it looks like. Not sure what I would be looking for but I assume even temp between both cylinders.

I got my new not bent brake pedal off ebay and wanted to clean it up a bit. There were a lot of deep scratches all over it. Here's how it looked after some vinegar and scrubbing.
IMG-4457 (640x480).jpg

I sanded all the highs, soaked the thing in prep and etch, and then smeared JBWeld all over the cracks. After curing for a day, I sanded down the JBWeld. I probably should have done a second layer but I wasn't trying to spend too much time on this.
IMG-4466 (640x480).jpg

Then I went and powdercoated it satin black with my ghetto home setup. The flat satin black from prismatic powders is very forgiving and any orange peel you get looks like its part of the texture. Getting good coverage in all the corners can be difficult but you don't have to worry about runs like you might get out of a rattle can. Also this stuff is decently durable.
IMG-4470 (640x480).jpg

Did the kick starter and gear lever for my cousins CB200 as well. Also couple brackets just to see how it would turn out.
IMG-4476 (640x480).jpg

Fun little process. Cost about $150 for the setup assuming you already have an air compressor. Tiny one works for small parts like these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Got my new exhaust system couple days ago and finally got it onto the bike. This is my first experience with an universal exhaust system. In my mind, it was suppose to be a 1-2 hour job but it ended up taking about 8 hours of scratching our heads and banging things around. First I started with wrapping the exhaust with DEI exhaust wrap. I was being as careful as I could be with full coverage, rubber gloves under work gloves, and a respirator, but that fiberglass itch is no joke and finds its way everywhere you can imagine. Exhaust wrapping was suppose to be a 30 minute job, but the easier the task, the lazier I get and I ignored the measure twice, cut once rule. Ended up taking 2 hours with a lot of redos.

The big headache came from using an angled adapter for the mufflers and trying to figuring out how to use the muffler reducers. I bought a set of reverse cones which look like the same emgo stuff you find. Unfortunately they only put one cut in it and it is no where enough to clamp down on the header pipes. After adding 3 more cuts to each muffler, we tried to clamp them down using 2 of the reducers, but the clamps would bottom out without compressing the muffler enough. We ended up trying spending 4-5 hours trying to fit the 3rd reducer but there was no way to get the muffler over the header using 3. Turns out the clamps are junk and bottoms out too early without closing up all the way. Putting them in a vice and straitening out the flanges so they sit flush against each other gives much more clamping pressure. Also have to use a washer that covers the flange to get even pressure along the whole thing. With this fix, we were able to get the muffler on using the medium and small reducers. We also added ultra copper rtv at the joints for good measure.

The next issue was that because the mufflers are angled upward, the bolt that attaches to the muffler end rubs against the swingarm. That became another 30 minute issue while we digged through the random bolts bin to find a tiny bolt that would clear. We also had to space out the bolt that connects to the passenger peg mount to move the bracket further away from the swingarm. We ended up just sticking a large nut in between as a spacer.

I think the job would be a lot easier in a garage with proper tools for fabbing up brackets and such, but I don't think I want to do this again.

On the bright side, the muffler reaches right to the rear axle and I feel like the bike gained a bit of midrange torque. I felt like before around 5-6k rpm, there was no power on the bike but now it pulls pretty steadily through. This exhaust replaced the 2 into 1 with a shorty pipe that use to be on the bike.

Side note, new exhaust wraps seem to smoke a lot. Also these mufflers are LOUD. I will probably repack them sometime in the future.

I love the look of dual angled mufflers.
I'll have better pictures when I'm not so itchy and exhausted.
IMG-4480 (640x480).jpg

IMG-4481 (640x480).jpg
 

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I had a similar experience with the emgo mufflers I bought. Had to use a vise to bend the mounting plates and drill new holes to install where I wanted. I think they say that modification may be required in the instructions if I remember correctly. The spark plug/ crappy RPM issues could be more complicated. If you had cone filters previously, then it could be a bad carb tuning job. Generally adding cone air filters will require new jetting and carb rebuild. I have also had a fouling problem and it seems like once this happens and it dumps too much fuel in the system it gets dirty and just runs like crap until you take it apart and clean everything again. Seafoam helps but sometimes it's not quite right until you pull it and clean.

Would be interesting to see the posts from the seller to get a more full picture of the bike history.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
From what I've read in his posts, he tried jetting one size bigger but ended up sticking with stock jets since it was running rich. I will be rebuilding the carbs sometime soon though. I found a small crack in the rubber intake manifold that has been partially sealed with rtv.

The bike is running noticeably better with the new exhaust. I think getting rid of the emgo pods made a difference too but not as big as swapping in the dual full length exhausts. Whether or not seafoam did anything... idk but it was cheap and I can use the rest as a cleaner when I take the carbs apart.

I also noticed when I park the bike, I get some cloudy drips of oil out of the breather tube. I assume this is oil + fuel. I have less than 100 miles on the oil but planning on changing it out this week and I need to test the petcock to see how much it is leaking.

Another issue I just noticed is that the led lights are flickering. I believe it is due to interference from the coils so I have to look up on how to shield the wiring.
 

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Did he do a complete rewire job on this bike? Reason I ask is my lights would flicker out before I rewired it. When I was doing the wiring I found a few shorts that were causing the problem. The wirings being 35 years old had breaks in the plastic covers and was like chasing your tail. Better to replace with all new if your committed to the bike.

I also had a crack in the rubber intake housing. It made it run bad and I bought new ones. Be sure not to over tighten these because they are prone to failure then. Did you put the stock air box back on the bike after removing the pod filters? Pods do have advantages for power. You just have to rejet properly. (More than one size up from stock usually) Probably have another issue causing the rich carb condition. You may have a carb adjustment screw that needs to be set correctly. Factory is usually like 2-3 turns out but could need tuning differently depending on other factors. Personally any problems with being rich are usually the float needles. They go bad a lot. I mean a lot a lot! Perhaps just dirty but I would examine the needles really closely. Especially if you notice over flow issues while parked.

I took my petcock valve apart before because of a rusty tank issue. It had rust piece all in it and I think the debris might have clogged the shut off from proper functioning. Perhaps letting fuel to continue to leak into the carb and into the oil while parked. Might just need to clean and reassembly to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The PO did a lot of rewiring. I noticed the loom runs right behind the coil so I'm guessing that's why it is flickering. When I have time to pull the tank off, I will have to see if there's a way to move it away from the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally and update. Long post ahead.

Schools out so finally have some time to work on the bike again. Had the carbs pulled over the winter and cleaned up in the spring. Bike runs much better and doesn’t die at stoplights anymore. Except when it’s warmed up and I brake hard, the revs will slowly drop and bike will die if I don’t give some throttle. Not sure what’s that’s about but bike is running so I’ll look into it later.

Now while I appreciate the work the PO put into the bike, the novelty wore off fast and I’m replacing a lot of stuff.

I think I already mentioned getting rid of the rearsets. I finally got rid of the clubmans as well and replaced it with a drag bars. Those 2 changes made a night and day difference to the point where I actually want to ride the bike more than once a week. Only problem is that I ended up with a bent foot peg bar and 2 bent brake pedals. Hopefully the next set coming in will be the last I order.

Next step is to clean up the front end. My bike is stored next to a stockish cb200 and side by side, mine starts to look a bit unfinished. From afar it might have a bit of rat rod kind of feel, but up close it’s quite unsatisfactory.

I think it has to do with the 7” bucket, cheap modern looking turn signals, and the generic mounting bracket.

I actually like the look of the stock fork ears because it makes our skinny little fork look beefier. Ended up buying a set of ears but being new to this, I didn’t realize not all cb350 forks are the same. Also while my bike is registered as 71, the forks are not from 71. Ebay seller was also being a big douche giving hella attitude when I asked to cancel the order an hour after I placed it. Anyways, after receiving it, it looked like I could make it fit so I didn’t go through eBay to return. Cut off the inner lip and it slides over the tube just fine. Going to gave to play with the rubber bits to see if it really fits though.

In the mean time, stripped the old paint, cleaned off the rust and powder coated it black. Also playing with the idea of gold fork lowers so those got powdered too. (Gold is chrome base, gold top coat which is PITA with a budget home setup.) Ordering a 6.5” bucket which I believe is close to stock size and some bullet style indicators. (I wanted to switch to LEDs but PO did some custom wiring and that’s going to be another headache to figure out because I know nothing about wiring besides following step by step instructions so if someone wants to look at his diagram and give me some instructions, that would be awesome).

Anyways, here’s my PC attempt. Not the greatest. Probably would have cost the same getting it done professionally (lots of paint stripper, acetone, sandpaper, powder used on multiple attempts), but what’s the fun in that.
 

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Wow... I like the gold fork, nice and shiny. Anymore gold on the bike? Do you have a pic of the bike, would be great to see?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Lot of changes planned. Took apart rear shocks for paint but they were rusty as hell and blown. Bit the bullet and ordered some Hagons. Had some wiring issues where a DRL/headlight kill switch broke. Planned on removing the wiring but the halogen bulb was putting quite a draw on the battery so I’m just fixing the switch until I get a LED headlight which is also on order. New IRC gs11s coming in as well to replace the 8 year old Duros. And finally remaking the seat hump because the PO made it bigger than it needs to be. Mold is made using florist foam and sandpaper. Sandpaper taped to a large flat surface helps create some even lines. Just waiting on the fiberglass and resin to arrive. What I’m worried about though is that idk if the basic sowing machine I have access to can handle the vinyl but I’ll see in a week or so when I get to that part.

Here’s a pic of how it looks like before it’s getting a makeover.

niles2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got my 3rd brake lever. This one looks straight but is super pitted. Couple soaks in phospho and filled in with jb weld. Going to be sanded and painted over the weekend.

Also started the seat cowl. I thought I was prepared for fiberglass but it is much harder than I thought. I did the tape over mold method, but the tape doesn’t sit tight over the foam so there are lots of waves. Next time I’ll do the filler and wax method. I think that would give a much better result. Not giving up on this one though. Did 2 layers and once it’s cured, I’ll pull it from the mold and add another 2 on the inside to give me leeway to sand. Then filler and more prep.

69749F57-C373-4CA6-A4C5-71FDC80298F4_1562902071231.jpg

3DE0D223-3CEB-4743-8BFE-E71625380045_1562902124191.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cowl roughly done. Had to build it separately because the PO had a battery box welded to the back. Seat pan mocked up with duct tape over painters tape. Initially used cardboard but since I’m not making a negative, I felt like it would sit too high. Brake pedal filled in and sanded and ready for paint. New tires arriving tomorrow. Hagons ships to the Canada distributor only twice a month I think so no idea when they will arrive. Hopefully everything will be done by the end of the month.

First time working with fiberglass so i got a feeling it’s going to be mainly resin and filler lol.

Plan on making a fiberglass fender if I have enough resin left over

B49B39F1-4C1A-44C0-A887-7392C84C9913_1563127021445.jpg 253D9B6A-1257-41FE-BCD9-5E2388F2228C_1563127006210.jpg
 
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