[Dmoto]

Pullin' a late one tonight doing as much of the electrical i can on my bike... ! So I have a question about the ignition coils and the black wire coming from each ignition coil that would originally link together and go to the kill button...

If I am running the m-unit, which has the "press the start button twice to kill the motor", is it necessary to use those blk wires coming from the coils? or should i pinch em off? Or are they ground?

In the picture you can see the "?" from the coils....



Thanks for all the help, don't know what i would do without ya!

 

[66Sprint]

Connect coils as in this rude sketch...."to power" (battery +)" means power when the key is on...and/or after the "kill" switch..

Your starter solenoid and "M-lock" are also wired incorrectly and won't function, Turning it on will blow the fuses.......Phone me....540-525-5199.....Steve

 

[Dmoto]

Connect coils as in this rude sketch...."to power" (battery +)" means power when the key is on...and/or after the "kill" switch..

Your starter solenoid and "M-lock" are also wired incorrectly and won't function, Turning it on will blow the fuses.......Phone me....540-525-5199.....Steve
View attachment 74538

Dang. Ok. But why?

This bike also came with only one condenser (1968 cb350 engine).. Is that right? I thought some of the older ones only had one..?

As for the M-unit, M-lock combo, i got my info from this video:

Any wisdom is appreciated. New at building bikes..

 

[66Sprint]

#1...The 1968 (and all) CB350's use two condensers (soldered end to end on the mount, which also provides the grounds for both)... Each wire is a separate condenser......
It/they should look like this pic:



Your solenoid's internal magnetic coil needs to receive (B+) power and have a ground (B-).... You have it connected so both ends are grounded when the button is pushed.... No power to it means it won't activate....
On a normal CB350, the push-button DOES ground, so you'll NEED to have a positive power connection to the other end....The small gauge black solenoid wire needs to be connected to your aux. or any other wire that has power when the key is "on"....

I may be wrong about the RFID key unit hook-up, but without a code or schematic for the M-unit I can't say for sure.....The M-unit has always appeared to me to be just an overly expensive and complex junction block.....IF you would like, I can draw up your diagram without it as a much simpler harness.......

 

[Dmoto]

Hey Steve, thanks again for your knowledge! below is the m-unit diagram that came with the unit:


Let me know this changes anything...

Only reason i'm using the m-unit is the added features: alarm, multifunctions for single button, internal fuses/protection, and the rfid reader is pretty snazzy. Hope i can get all these things up and running...

Thanks again!
D

 

[Sonreir]

The m-unit uses low-side signaling to trigger powered outputs.

Everything on the original diagram looks OK to me.

For the kill switch, I would run an additional five pin automotive relay from the power connection rather than use the AUX port.

Pin 30 to the main fuse, Pin 87a to the coils, Pin 85 to the AUX port, and Pin 86 to the kill switch. The other switch wire should go to ground and Pin 87 on the relay won't be used.

A simpler method would be to run power from the AUX port to the kill switch and then from the kill switch to the coils. This is what motogadget recommends.

 

[66Sprint]

Ahhhh......The low-side signaling now makes it make sense, but why make it MORE complex?

I believe the automotive relay was included with the RFID kit.....

 

[Sonreir]

Ahhhh......The low-side signaling now makes it make sense, but why make it MORE complex?

I believe the automotive relay was included with the RFID kit.....

I don't get it, either. My best guess is so they can use thin gauge wire in the expensive controls they sell. 22 gauge in some of it.

And yeah, the m-lock will have an automotive relay that can be used (it isn't necessary when using the m-lock with the m-unit).