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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did the following in chronological order:

1) White/yellow wires stator mod in the headlight bucket (stock rectifier/regulator)
Everything was working as normal while parked.

2) Replaced the flasher relay to an LED flasher relay
Everything was working as normal while parked.

3) Replaced headlight to LED
Everything was working as normal while parked.

4) I replaced the gauge to LEDs.
Everything worked except the turn signal indicator, but only when I selected the right turn signal (makes no sense). I reverted the turn signal indicator back to the stock bulb.
Everything was working as normal while parked.

I went for a test night ride and everything was performing beautifully.
I live on a hill and before my last right turn I gave it a lot of gas. It died before I could make the turn.

Battery: 12.5V
I tested the ground from the LED headlight harness I made (and other random ones too) and they have continuity with the battery.
I tested for 12V on the same harness (between the white wire and green wire on the headlight) and there was none.
Starter doesn't work.
Horn doesn't work.
Turn signals don't work.
Headlight doesn't work.
Kick start doesn't work.

Is it possible that my rectifier/regulator couldn't handle the stator wire mod? Or maybe the new flasher relay affects something? There is also an unhooked female connection in the bucket that doesn't seem to go anywhere. I think it was always like that?

Thank you for any help. If anyone's in San Francisco, 24 pack of beer on me if you figure this out for me.
 

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Sensei
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Check the fuse......and Battery electrolyte level....If low, add only distilled water......

There IS a Brown wire female connector in the headlight shell that is not used......
 

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Sensei
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27,173 Posts
Are you using METRIC fuses or just one from the auto-parts store?
 

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Sensei
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A black plastic/screw-on-cover, or a whitish plastic flip open cover?.... (betting it is the latter)....

Forget it, I'm done..... With that "What's the difference?" attitude you can simply find the answer yourself by reading older posts on the subject........
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
A black plastic/screw-on-cover, or a whitish plastic flip open cover?.... (betting it is the latter)....

Forget it, I'm done..... With that "What's the difference?" attitude you can simply find the answer yourself by reading older posts on the subject........
I'm searching old posts simultaneously. I just woke up too.

edit: oh geez i kept thinking there could be no way METRIC was simply metric. I thought people were referring to a brand called METRIC and all my searches were coming up with vague findings. Show's over. Fuse was blown. Wrong size fuse was installed by PO.
 

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Sensei
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Since my intent is to teach, and so others might learn:
Was the fuse the wrong amperage (not 15A)? .... Or wrong physical size (diameter/length)?
Metric or inch (AGC/AGM?AGT)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It was the wrong physical size. I replaced it with the correct 30 mm fuse but it blew again. I replaced my flasher back to the stock one and it seems to be doing ok for now...
 

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Swapping the flasher unit isn't going to change anything. Output from the charging circuit does not affect the fuse, since it is wired direct to the battery. Next time it pops the fuse you need to remove the tank and headlight beam so you can find when the power is being shorted to ground.
 
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