Hey guys! Just a new member here that got my hands on a 1976 CB200T it near mint condition. (wrapped in a storage since 1978!) Anyways, I've done a complete resurrection by changing the tires, new tubes, new battery, new plugs, new coil, and complete carb clean and install. However, having issues with the bike. It has absolutely no power. I mean it goes but it maxes out at 30MPH and pretty much struggles going uphill on first! The bike can't make it up hill without going 2mph kicking its way up. Whats the deal? I am beyond frustrated on what to do. Please help anyone!!
CB200 isn't passing 30MPH and no power uphill stalling
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Hi and welcome
Are both carbs getting gas, both pipes getting hot, both pipes have the same pressure, is the timeing set correctly, and the valves? What coil did you use and battery and how do you know theyre good? Whats the compression numbers. Are the brakes binding ( you should replace them anyway since the pads delaminate over time) did you replace the oil, what did you use? Is the clutch set correctly are any of the controll cables binding or pinched. What plugs did you use (ard they marked R?)
Do you know why it was parked
Are both carbs getting gas, both pipes getting hot, both pipes have the same pressure, is the timeing set correctly, and the valves? What coil did you use and battery and how do you know theyre good? Whats the compression numbers. Are the brakes binding ( you should replace them anyway since the pads delaminate over time) did you replace the oil, what did you use? Is the clutch set correctly are any of the controll cables binding or pinched. What plugs did you use (ard they marked R?)
Do you know why it was parked
Hey Sino! Appreciate your reply brother. Yes both carbs are getting gas. I know this because if I were to remove the bottom carb bowl there is gas in it. The coil I used is brand new from a reputable eBay seller and has 2 year warranty. Should be good.... The brakes are not binding at all so I'm good there. I used the correct oil required for the cb manual. The clutch I'm not too sure about..how and what can I check to see if it's set correctly. The exhaust both get really hot, I've checked that and I just used champion brand plugs from NAPA. I remembered the guy saying that he didn't have the OEM ones and had to order it but the champions still will work. Cables are nicely set with room to play without any binding at all. Checked that this past weekend because it did cross my mind. It was parked because it was given as a gift but the person never had a license to even ride it. I ordered a new jet kit. You guys think it might help?
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It's good that they're not binding/dragging. But by "delaminating," Simo was referring to what happens to brake shoes/pads that are laminated instead of riveted - they can come apart and the actual "stopping material" can (and has, for some) get jammed in there and cause an instant lockup of whatever wheel they're installed on, which would make for a Really Bad Day.
Great! Also important is using the correct rating of oil, as these types of motorcycles have what is commonly referred to as a "wet clutch," meaning that many "automotive" type engine oils will have friction modifiers (for fuel mileage purposes) that can cause such a clutch to slip. An oil that is rated JASO-MA will not do this, and is intended to be used in wet clutch motorcycle applications. Some "automotive/truck" engine oils will also work - Shell Rotella T 15w40 and their T6 synthetic oil is a couple such, IIRC.
There are different degrees of "hot." It may be (more or less) normal, or it might be indicative of a lean condition.
Many HondaTwins members just gasped, lol. The correct NGK spark plugs are most likely a far, far better choice and well worth installing. As are the proper NGK spark plug caps (if you don't have them).
My buddy used to swear by them... in his old Ford pickup
. Most everyone else on the planet seems to swear at them.If the ones that are currently in the carbs are dirty/restricted/clogged and you don't want to clean them if/when you clean the rest of the carb internals and IF they are both the correct sized jets and actually manufactured correctly / with the correct tolerances. Some aftermarket ones are fine, some seem to be quite a bit less than fine. The general consensus is that people are better off to clean and reinstall the ones that came in the carbs from Honda unless they are physically damaged.
Testing compression is pretty easy. If you do not have a compression tester, most auto parts stores have a "tool loan program" and should be able to supply one. One thing to note is that the hoses on many "non-motorcycle / small engine" compression testers may have enough volume to affect your readings, so when posting your results it's a good idea to also post the length/diameter of the tester's hose. At the very least, it'd tell you if both cylinders are reasonably close to each other in compression. I'd post a quick "how-to," but it's "so late here that it's actually early," lol, and I might forget something important. Hopefully someone who knows for sure - and isn't about to fall asleep at the computer - will post instructions.
How many miles are on the motorcycle? Have you adjusted the valves yet? (They might not need them, depending on the amount of miles that are on the odometer and whether or not time in storage affects them - which I don't know.)
Do you know the general condition of the fuel system (tank, petcock, lines, carbs)? Was there ANY fuel in the motorcycle (including in the carbs) when during the period of time when it was stored? If so, the carburetors almost certainly need to be cleaned and, after that, synchronized whilst on the motorcycle.
And that's about the limit of MY knowledge, lol. Congratulations on getting an "almost new old Honda."
Regards,
There is about 5,000 original miles on the bike. The valves have been adjust yes… The general condition of the fuel system is nice and clean. Absolutely no grime or gum. It wasn't it that bad of shape so the cleaning was quick and very solid. I am thinking maybe the champion spark plugs are causing it to run like this? The NGK sparkplugs is what i'm going to try this weekend in addition to upgraded jets. I am definitely sure the bike is running lean. I'm literally just about going to give up on sell the bike if these upgrades doesn't fix the problem this weekend.
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Patience is a virtue .....
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Theres a little brass tab that sits between the two floats very gentlely bending that tab will adjust the float height
What that tab does is push against the float needle the needle and its seat are the 'tap' that lets more or less gas into the bowl. Just do a search theres plenty of info here on HT.
Youre also need to get the comp numbers since the bike has been sitting for 30 years one or more of the rings could be frozen and youre not getting full compression
What that tab does is push against the float needle the needle and its seat are the 'tap' that lets more or less gas into the bowl. Just do a search theres plenty of info here on HT.
Youre also need to get the comp numbers since the bike has been sitting for 30 years one or more of the rings could be frozen and youre not getting full compression
Simo! Ok so I took apart the carbs completely. Began to inspect the jets. Main jet clear! Slow jet...stuck! I was trying to push a sewing needle and would get stuck halfway into this jet. Confused as I was...took the other carb and removed the slow jet and same! Both aren't able to clear a sewing needle through it. Is this normal or definite clog? Is this the issue of my problems?!? I hope so! Hope to hear back soon! Btw...the floats are perfect to manual standard heights.
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Wouldn't it be better to soak the jets in carburetor cleaner overnight and then blow compressed air through them? (And, possibly, repeat both things?) I've read of taking a piece of wire like you mentioned - actually it was using a certain guitar string (I forget which one) - and forcing it through jets, but I always wondered how that worked when the different jets would (I assume) have different-sized passages, or at least different-sized orifices on the "business end," right? My thinking is that if a person uses a wire that is smaller than the passage, it won't remove the entire amount of crud (leaving it partially restricted) and if it's larger than the passage, it'll either not go through or (worst case) will damage the jet by enlarging the passage.
Am I just not understanding how carburetor jets are designed or something?
Regards,
Am I just not understanding how carburetor jets are designed or something?
Regards,
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Yes for carb clean BUT i dont have a compressor and i aint putting my lips on it after its spent the night in carb cleaner... The thing with the single strand is its smaller than the hole ( this is good) but has a spiral twist (like a stretched spring) to it so as you draw it through it acts like its bigger, and you just do a few passes/pokes
The only trick to it i can see is you want to remove the gunge not the brass, any way that works...
The only trick to it i can see is you want to remove the gunge not the brass, any way that works...
Simo! It's fixed!!! Both slow jets were clogged so I soaked them both before I left for work for 8 hours in carb cleaner. Adjusted the float level and bang and used air compressor to clean out the jets. Now Its literally ripping through up hills. You're the man and thank you for all your expertise. Starts on the dime without a choke either. Such a beautiful thing
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