The brakes are not binding at all so I'm good there.
It's good that they're not binding/dragging. But by "delaminating," Simo
was referring to what happens to brake shoes/pads that are laminated instead of riveted - they can come apart and the actual "stopping material" can (and has, for some) get jammed in there and cause an instant lockup of whatever wheel they're installed on, which would make for a Really Bad Day.
I used the correct oil required for the cb manual.
Great! Also important is using the correct rating of oil, as these types of motorcycles have what is commonly referred to as a "wet clutch," meaning that many "automotive" type engine oils will have friction modifiers (for fuel mileage purposes) that can cause such a clutch to slip. An oil that is rated JASO-MA will not do this, and is intended to be used in wet clutch motorcycle applications. Some
"automotive/truck" engine oils will also work - Shell Rotella T 15w40 and their T6 synthetic oil is a couple such, IIRC.
The exhaust both get really hot
There are different degrees of "hot." It may be (more or less) normal, or it might be indicative of a lean condition.
I just used champion brand plugs from NAPA.
Many HondaTwins members just gasped, lol. The correct NGK spark plugs are most likely a far, far better choice and well worth installing. As are the proper NGK spark plug caps (if you don't have them).
I remembered the guy saying that he didn't have the OEM ones and had to order it but the champions still will work.
My buddy used to swear by them... in his old Ford pickup
. Most everyone else on the planet seems to swear at
I ordered a new jet kit. You guys think it might help?
If the ones that are currently in the carbs are dirty/restricted/clogged and you don't want to clean them if/when you clean the rest of the carb internals and IF
they are both the correct sized jets and actually manufactured correctly / with the correct tolerances. Some aftermarket ones are fine, some seem to be quite a bit less than fine. The general consensus is that people are better off to clean and reinstall the ones that came in the carbs from Honda unless they are physically damaged.
Testing compression is pretty easy. If you do not have a compression tester, most auto parts stores have a "tool loan program" and should be able to supply one. One thing to note is that the hoses on many "non-motorcycle / small engine" compression testers may have enough volume to affect your readings, so when posting your results it's a good idea to also post the length/diameter of the tester's hose. At the very least, it'd tell you if both cylinders are reasonably close to each other in compression. I'd post a quick "how-to," but it's "so late here that it's actually early," lol, and I might forget something important. Hopefully someone who knows for sure - and isn't about to fall asleep at the computer - will post instructions.
How many miles are on the motorcycle? Have you adjusted the valves yet? (They might
not need them, depending on the amount of miles that are on the odometer and whether or not time in storage affects them - which I don't know.)
Do you know the general condition of the fuel system (tank, petcock, lines, carbs)? Was there ANY fuel in the motorcycle (including in the carbs) when during the period of time when it was stored? If so, the carburetors almost certainly need to be cleaned and, after that, synchronized whilst on the motorcycle.
And that's about the limit of MY knowledge, lol. Congratulations on getting an "almost new old Honda."