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CB200 Carb Sync & Float Level Tips?

19301 Views 21 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  66Sprint, 
kirkn
OK, how 'bout listing up your favorite methods for syncing the carbs on a CB200 (independent slides) and for setting / checking the float levels.

I've had to completely disassemble, clean and soak the carbs on my '74 CB200 - standard rebuild technique. My synchronizing style is to bench-sync them first, just by eyeballing the gaps beneath the throttle slide and trying to make 'em the same. But, I have no idea where this will leave the idle speed setting.

Next, though, is connecting the two separate cables to the slides and trying to set free play. Here, I just try to sync them so that I can just hear the slight "click" the slides make as they close and try and get 'em together. But, my ears aren't as good as they once were... :)

But this is kinda crude. Anyone got any better suggestions? Anyone drilled & tapped the manifolds for using a mercury-type carb synchronizer?


How 'bout setting float level on these? Anyone fabbed a screw to thread into the bowl drain and connect a clear tube to check actual level? I guess I should start with the manual, to see what it actually says about setting float level... :oops:


Thanks for any tips and techniques.

Kirk
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Bird76Mojo
Every bike I've ever stored for the winter did that when you're emptying the bowls out using that method. As it leans out it revs up. It's not necessary to do it daily, unless you only ride it once a month. For winter storage it's a must.

GB :mrgreen:
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Bird76Mojo
The opposite would be true for your fuel tank. If storing the bike leave the tank full to the filler neck to prevent condensation and then rust. A fuel additive helps keep todays crap fuels stable as well.

Additionally, I don't care about fuel evaporating as a waste issue, but more of what it turns into in the fuel bowls. Varnish goo! ARGH! :evil: When it starts to evaporate it clogs the pilot jets really easily. It is good for the float needle valves to have the bowls empty. It makes them last years longer if they're rubber or viton tipped.
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GB :mrgreen:
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Bird76Mojo
Kirks last post on this topic was October 2nd guys..


GB :mrgreen:
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Bird76Mojo
66Sprint said:
The pic is from a big (1400+ page), old, hardbound Chilton's Manual that is one of my favorite references.... I think it cost $80 back in the day.....I don't know if you could even find one now......
Click to expand...

My local library has a whole bunch of them available.. Hardcover Chiltons...


GB :mrgreen:
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