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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1972 CB175K6 with 3000 miles on it. I am having problems getting the oil pump oil filter cap off. This is the cap to the centrifuge oil filter. I have put the bike in gear, blocked the wheels, and hit the cross screw lightly with an impact driver, but it won't budge the cap. Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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peaky said:
I have a 1972 CB175K6 with 3000 miles on it. I am having problems getting the oil pump oil filter cap off. This is the cap to the centrifuge oil filter. I have put the bike in gear, blocked the wheels, and hit the cross screw lightly with an impact driver, but it won't budge the cap. Any ideas? Thanks!
Welcome to here.
Did you unlock the washer tab that is sitting in one of those 4 slots on the nut?

You should put your location in your profile, it is just a courtesy.
 

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Sensei
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UNscrew the 6mm Phillips...... Insert an 8mm bolt ...screw it in, it will lift out the rotor part....Then fold the tabs down and use the 4 pronged special tool to remove the cup...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just want to get the cap off to clean inside the roter, not remove the roter itself. The fiche for the K6 shows the cap with an o-ring, nesting in the roter, held in place by a 6X20 cross screw. I am guessing that the cross on the screw fits in an indent in the cap. I can't get that cap to budge. I can feel a little wiggle in the screw, but I'm concerned about damage to the cap by the screw cross if I wap it too hand with the impact driver. How do you-all get the cap off to clean inside the centrifuge oil filter?

The old manuals show the cap pulling out. They say grasp one of the tabs on it with a pliers and just pull it out. They do not show the cross screw.

Thanks! Scott
 

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Sensei
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The "cap" or insert IS the rotor, the outer housing is the cup...
Bang away, you should NOT be able to damage anything (other than the 6x20 screw's phillips "cross") by using an impact driver..It HAS to come out...... THEN thread an 8mm bolt in and it will push the rotor out as you tighten it in..............
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks! I was concerned that there was something that I was missing and the cap/roter is showing as an unavailable part. (I'm using the fiche language when I call the roter the cap. It calls the cup the roter)
 

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Sensei
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You are correct on the terminology, but to me, a hollow cylindrical container is a cup...and the part that has paddles to throw the oil as it spins is the rotor......
Regardless, there is a bronze edge around the center hole that you must be careful NOT to damage...This is a part of the seal that sends (guides) the oil to the top end and elsewhere... If it is nicked or damaged, the oil can escape and just "shortcut" back down into the sump without lubing critical parts.....The other half of this (seal/guide) is the spring-loaded steel cup on the "spout" on the outer round cover.....
That joint, and the gasket behind the oil pump are the most common causes of top end oiling failures on the 175's......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got it out! More force, then the 8mm bolt did it! Thanks guys!

My 6mm screw doesn't have the "cross" at the top as is shown in the fiche. Do you think using a non-cross screw is a problem?

Any ideas on a good Honda parts source in the US? I know Silver over in England and Consolidated in the Netherlands, but none here.
 

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Sensei
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A 6x20mm panhead Phillips bolt is common ... Most ACE hardware stores and even some Lowe's have them... Failing that, try an auto fastener supply or the Honda dealer... I can get them in stainless for a quarter........
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its not a "special" screw? On the fiche it looks like it has little wings on it below the cheese head.

Update: I just looked. The winged version is no longer available. Its been replaced by a regular pan head. I guess either the wings weren't necessary or I just made them up in my head...........that happens some times :)
 

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So.... bringing back an old thread.

got the plate off, even with stripped bolts from the previous owner.

I cant for the life of me pull the rotor out. It's binded in there, and now I've broken one of the tabs that the shop manual says to use pliers to pull out.

I'm scared of breaking the last tab.

Any advice??

Cheers!
George


PS, I have removed the Phillips screw (6x20)
 

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Yup they can be tough. If you have access or can fashion a way to attach the longest 8mm bolt you can find/purchase to a slide hammer you can get it. Otherwise the same long bolt and Crescent wrench under the head and some judicious hammering has worked for me. Mine had water in the oil and ultimately corroded the cap the cup. All better now.
Larz
 

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Sensei
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No...Not for the cap.... but yes for the cup (body of the filter)
 

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I see in the shop manual it says that to clean the oil filter element you simply spray compressed air inside. Is it sufficient to just pull the cap blow that with air, and blow air inside the rotor? therefore no longer needing the special tool? thanks for any and all replies in advance this community rocks!!!
 

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I use a piece cut from a plastic bottle as a debris escape gutter and spray mine out with carb cleaner (before the oil change...Then flush with fresh oil, drain, and install running oil....)
 
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