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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi!

relatively new honda cb owner here....replaced the battery 3 months ago... rode it a couple a miles and parked it in a garage it was operating fine... the next day I turned the ignition to ON.. lights come on everything... attempted to kick it over to start (as I normally do) and the lights started to slowly fade... making it harder for me to start.

everytime i kicked after that the light would slowly try to come back on but not enough charge/voltage to allow it to start obviously. and the electric start button isnt responsive at all.

the only issue or fault i can think of that changed was the fact that a week before i was parking the bike and stalled out. when i went to start up the bike right after that, the electric start was unresponsive and the lights/power started to slowly fade. the next day, it was working fine however.

any thoughts on what could be faulty or loose? fuse blown? any help is appreciated !
 

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Start by checking/cleaning/tightening battery cable connections at the battery, at the frame, at the solenoid (both posts) and at the starter.

Ensure your battery is fully charged. Maybe have it tested (new does not always equal good). Check that your charging system is working. You'll need a voltmeter/multimeter.
 

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You've got a bad battery ( new doesn't always mean good)
The bike produces electricity when the engine turns , each time you kick it over it makes bit so the lights brighten but then fade because it isn't actually starting
The bike runs at a loss below about 4000 rpm so you need to be above this when riding to keep the battery charged.
The key has 3 positions off, run , park . If it was in park ( the tail light stays on ) your battery will drain between rides.
Did you switch the petcock off ? You need to EVERY time the engine is stopped. ( Not stalled but if your not on it switch the petcock off) this has nothing to do with your battery issue but more to do with thinned oil that will melt your cam if you re not careful ( the 175s weak point)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks like it just needed a charge. I was negligent to keep it on a tender and only ride it short distances. Charged it for 24 hours and she started up like a dream.

@simo so the more i ride above 4000rpm the better charge for the battery?
and yes always always turn the petcock off, i even it let run a bit once I go to park to clear some of the gas out of the carbs so they stay cleaner (10% ethanol in new york state)
also, whats this about thinned oil that will melt the cam?
 

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Wait - so you trickle charge it up over night and then it runs fine for short trips. If you don't charge overnight what happens? Does the battery discharge below 12V? Almost sounds like your stator is not charging the battery somehow.
 

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Looks like it just needed a charge. I was negligent to keep it on a tender and only ride it short distances. Charged it for 24 hours and she started up like a dream.

@simo so the more i ride above 4000rpm the better charge for the battery?
and yes always always turn the petcock off, i even it let run a bit once I go to park to clear some of the gas out of the carbs so they stay cleaner (10% ethanol in new york state)
also, whats this about thinned oil that will melt the cam?
Yeah the book says 3000 rpm is break even.
This is assuming, as Curtis points out, that the charging system is actually working.

The cam runs on 'plain' bearings. This means the bits of metal sit on top of each other separated by a thin layer of oil.
No ball bearings, no pins, no rollers.
Plain bearings will never wear out ....As long as the right oil is between the metal parts.
Put the wrong weight oil in , put gas thinned oil in and the oil can no longer keep the metal parts apart , your cam spins at half your rpm, so up to 5000rpm and that will produce friction that will wreck your cam in 5 min or less
 

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What Simo means is if you leave the petcock on when the bike is sitting overnight or for a long time after a ride during the day, gas can overflow slowly from the carbs and weep into the top end of the engine, slowly making its way past the pistons and rings and down into the bottom end and dilute the oil. Diluted oil loses its viscosity and will cause damage to the top end engine parts if you run it that way. When you pull the dipstick to check the oil - done properly on the centerstand or with the bike vertical, and with the dipstick set in the opening and not screwed in - make sure to smell the oil to see if it smells of gasoline and if it does (and it may well be overfull if so), it needs to be changed
 
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