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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm a little guy from Paris !

I got a CB125 with 175cc engine.
When I bought the bike in 2013, I rode approximately 150 kilometers until a breakdown.
I realized that the camshaft and the base point were dead. So, I bought new ones on eBay.

It was so good to recover lost sensations on the bike. :D


BUT, this summer, I encountered the same problem. The camshaft is completely "striped" on the ignition side, as in 2013. :???:




Has any of you ever encountered this problem ?
 

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Nice looking bike. Interesting to know about the engine swap. Looks like it's got aftermarket ( David Silvers ? ) exhaust downpipes.

Two oil feeds to head, one for each camshaft bush. You can check that oil is at least getting to the top of the engine by slackening either of the rear corner cylinder head nuts, either with the engine running, or in your case turning the engine over on the electric start, or a cordless drill on the alternator rotor bolt.

Oil needs to be changed at least every 500 miles on these old engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Richard,

Yes, they came from David Silvers. The former owner bought it. Is that good parts ?

I don't understand your comment. I can't turn the engine cause I opened it. Can you explain me with a simple english please ? :)
Thanks again.
 

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I have the same pipes on mine, they seem fine.

As you have the engine apart, you won't be able to check the oil flow by the method I described.

Once the engine is back together you can crank it over using the electric start, or preferably, a cordless drill on the alternator bolt, then see if oil is reaching the top of the engine.
 

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Oil rises through to this small hole


Oil passes into the journal here


Oil goes through the journal and lubricates just behind the seal (screw driver)


If any of this (or lower down) is blocked, the journal will run dry and cause an issue like you have.

Can you take a pic of the journal where the cam shaft runs
Like this



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Oil feed coming up from oil pump / filter, through these tiny holes in top crankcase.

If anyone has ever used silicon gasket sealant in this engine, very easy to block oilways.

ccase2.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,

I received a new camshaft, new spark ignition cover and news gaskets.
I'm ready to rebuild my engine.
As you saw my double issue (2 camshaft striped), can you please tell me what things I need to control before rebuilding and HOW control it ?

Best regards,
Camille from Paris
 

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Same advice as before.

Make sure all parts are thoroughly clean.

Inspect the centrifugal oil cleaner, make sure that the spring loaded parts move freely, and that the mating surfaces aren't worn.

Check that the oil hole in the gasket under the cam journals lines up with the holes in the head casting.

Then reassemble the engine fully and fill with oil. Leave the spark plugs out and the stator cover off.

Use an electric drill set to run anticlockwise to spin the engine, using the nut on the end of the crankshaft under the stator cover.

If all is well, this will circulate oil around the engine. Slacken the two outside rear head nuts, oil should gush out from here when engine is turned over rapidly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hi,

IMG-1132.jpg

I inspected the centrifugal oil cleaner and checked that the oil hole in the gasket under the cam journals lines up with the holes in the head casting.

Then I reassembled the engine fully and filled with oil.

I spined the engine with my electric drill.

Result : no oil gush out from the two outside rear head nuts. No oil on the cam. I disassembled the oil pump but I did not notice anything disturbing.

WHats wrong ?

Best,

Camille
 

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How long (seconds) or how many times did you turn over the engine?
How fast?

As you know the pump has no seal just piston in bore so not many turns and slowly may not have raised the oil pressure.

Was the ball in the pump free? ( pump housing should rattle) it creates the one way valve in the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi,

Thanks for our answer.

I turned the engine with a drill at the maximum speed during 30 seconds.

Which ball are you talking about ?
 

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The oil pump housing has a ball bearing in it, it creates the ‘check valve’ to stop the oil flowing backwards as the oil pump piston retracts

 

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It would probably be best to refit the head cover, although that shouldn't affect the oil flow up the two rear studs.

Personally, I'd spin the engine over a few more times, give it a rest between 30 second bursts, let the oil galleries fill up.

One way to see if oil pump is working, remove the cover over the oil spinner, then turn the engine over slowly by hand or kickstart. Oil should squirt out of the holes that line up with the holes in the cover you've just removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
One way to see if oil pump is working, remove the cover over the oil spinner, then turn the engine over slowly by hand or kickstart. Oil should squirt out of the holes that line up with the holes in the cover you've just removed.
Richard, I did that and I saw oil squirt out of these holes. But no oil in the top and no oil on the camshaft, valves and snippets...
 
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