Hello there!
Back with more replies - thanks a lot for taking your time in walking me through this challenge.
I drove the bike more and now have 1000km's on the new pistons which means I can (should be able to) push it harder, which I tried. The bike really vibrates at any RPM over 6000 - it isn't something I can pass and then evens out at all. It is just there from 6-10K - haven't gone beyond 10 as it feels like it'll fall apart under me.
So to your questions. The carb part will be interesting, maybe I can tweak things there. I heard with twin (or more) carburateours that need to be synched manually, the problem can often be that one piston is better fed than the other and this causes all kinds of vibrations etc. I already adjusted both carb butterflies to slide exactly at the same time and also made sure both carbs have the air screw at the exactly same position. I took the carbs apart and cleaned them, the jets are identical in both of them. The headers warm up evenly - tested this by holding on both headers at the same time for as long as I could after a cold start and I had to let both go at the same time. I did not want to wait while smoke rises from my palms...
The sound from both exhausts are the same.
Ok again - to your questions now:
Looking at a picture of that thrust control ring, "washer" , it doesn't look very thick. I wonder how worn that is, or is it missing perhaps ?
I checked for any photos that I might have during disassembly that shows that ring and the answer is no
But the idea is very good and I'll make sure to check for this when I have the new crankshaft with me for which I'll need to open the engine. The crankshaft I bought it used but it is "used in Japan by a Japanese rider" which will without a doubt be a 100 times better than what I have here. Here a bike is the transportation for the whole family and every day. I can imagine this bike was lugging 4-5 kids on dirt roads etc... In Japan they drive on the weekend and change oil regularely - this is of course a stereotype but as I lived in both countries for years, I think I can bet on this being the case.
End float looks a bit excessive to me.
Up and down play, radial play, again looks excessive to me.
I was afraid of this. Nothing I can do until the new crankshaft is with me - which will be next year.
Definite "wobble" in alternater rotor, damaged by a 3 leg puller ?, It something bent ?
I think this is just because the crankshaft is out of true. Remember it was opened (and I don't know how many times) then re-pressed. The sprocket on the crankshaft is also positioned wrong by a few millimeters which means I can't get TOP on the camshaft when the piston is in TDC - the top position would be in between two chain links. Nothing I could do except to bore a larger opening on the camshaft's sprocket and turn it slightly to allow for the camshaft to be in true TOP position. It isn't 100% accurate I am sure but a lot better than before. I explained this in my video - but not sure if what I said made sense or if my accent was understandable
One of the cam sprocket bolts looks odd and I cannot see the O mark.
O mark is there as you've by now seen it on my video. The bolts are just normal bolts as I can't get the special ones here - so I used a grinder to make the heads thinner. On this bike by the way the two bolts are of different sizes, this is so you can't put the sprocket on in the wrong orientation. Pretty simple but very smart! The bike uses a 360 degree crankshaft so I think even if the sprocket went on the other way nothing would happen.
One of the final drive chain sprocket bolts look odd also, which can cause a problem.
Those were replaced since. Now they are the original Japanese bolts with the "8" stamped on their heads. Got them in Japan.
Is the cdi unit "Arduino" based ?
I don't know. It is from a Suzuki Shogun 110cc bike. I tried looking for information on what this bike is called internationally but I can't find anything.
I just checked for arduino and I see it's some fancy programmable unit. This is definitely not one that can be programmed so it is stock and has a limiter from what I understand. I know nothing about it otherwise but bike seems to advance just find and won't advance beyond the point that is marked on the flywheel. Not sure above 4000RPM - haven't yet tried. Once I get a hold of a secondary cover and be able to do this through a little hole.
Slow Motion video being a good idea
Yup - figured this out on my own. I just use my iPhone's camera and there is a slow-motion option. When you open the camera up - you can scroll left and right to choose between modes - there's photo / video / timelapse / slowmo etc. This slowmotion works fantastic!
Do the cam sprocket bolts faul the alloy cam sprocket cover ?
Not they don't. I can't hear any noice or see any scratches on the cover.
It's a bit risky running the engine with that cover off as it controls cam shaft end float !
I had no idea it can move and even when I tried yanking it, the thing would not move! Wish the crankshaft was the same
. This head is from Japan by the way, the one that came with the bike was a total disaster. It was used so extensively that the hole for the shaft must have become worn to the point where the bike wouldn't start. If it starts, it will be used. Service is normally only seeked when bike isn't moving anymore.
So the previous (or before that) owner had bearings fitted on both ends of the camshaft and bored the head out to accomodate for this. The bore and the bearing isn't an exact match so the camshaft had a rather large play in the head. This is no longer a problem, I am using one I got from Japan and it is like new!
Since you are going to the expense of getting a new unused crankshaft, which I hope is in a wooden box or similar, get new cam sprocket and chain and the cam sprocket bolts.
Yes will buy all these parts on my next trip.
How is the cam chain centre spreader, the large rubber wheel riding on the special bolt below the spark plug on the cylinder ?
Already replaced it to a new one. The one that came with the bike was half the size
. As long as it works....
It may be an idea to replace it anyway, along with the two rubber rollers/idlers/cam chain adjusters.
One roller I've already replaced and the other one is sitting and waiting for me in Japan.
Research CMSNL for that thrust washer and peg spanner to remove the primary drive gear...
I did look and understand what you mean by that washer and the odd gear that drives the clutch basket.
I don't understand what you mean above - you suggest I remove it and inspect it - hence the need for a peg spanner?
The carb slide needle, top, middle or bottom groove for the little clip ?
As mentioned above - here I think there is still work I can do. Nothing about the crankshaft play I can quickly change so the meantime would like everything else to be sorted so when I install the new crankshaft - thing would just start being perfect
The carbs are aftermarket but do resemble the ones that were originally on the bike. These are for the Honda S90 otherwise - and aftermarket so not the original Keihin. They do work quite good I think. They ran just fine before I fitted the airfilters and now with filtration, they bog down at WOT. From idle to 90% throttle all feels well, engine doesn't overheat and plugs look good. However, when I smal the throttle all the way, the bike starts to hesitate and jerk.
I assume it has to do with the air not mathing the fuel being supplied - given that I restricted the airflow with the filters?
What do you suggest? I can play with the needle but which way I go in this case? I assume down - to restrict fuel to match the restricted air flow?
You do have the air box/filters connected ?
See above...
Copper Head Gasket
Will do this when I take the bike apart to replace the crankshaft. Now the engine is fully sealed with gaskets and additional threebond liquid sealant and for the first time I don't have leaks
Very proud!
Opening the engine is rather hard as the sealant holds it together, don't want to do this too often.
Thanks again! Much appreciated.
Ben
