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Sounds good, fires right up, revs like right now, see no crank vibration, can't hear a peep out of the cam chain, nor a rod knock at either the big or small end, nor a piston tap swapping directions. Guess what, the more cylinders the smoother the engine.

It's a buzzer. Live with it. Any vibe it should of fallen apart already. Sounds too good to show a problem.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 

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As stated, new left plug. The threads are weak in the head. Plugs look perfect. How? Not carbon fouled, not oil fouled. Anywhere from white to light tan, or lean is mean gray, again, engine looks health. Can tell by the instant startup, instant throttle response are clean carbs, no coil breakdown at speed. Again, no problem chasing your tail waiting for a normal sounding, normal running Honda to blow up.

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NOLTT
 

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I hear you, no pun intended. I hear and see the bike. Let's run down the list of not physically riding it. All we have are video and photo. See if you agree what I see, and what you see and hear.

1. Compression:
a. Fires off fast.
b. Crank showed no vibration with timing light.
c. No oil past the rings show it looks pretty good seal to compression wise.

2. Spark:
a. I'm sure the OP took that aluminum welding rod, felt TDC, somehow meguyveered (my kind of guy) the welding rod as TDC.
b. Unless I am mistaken, that rod point is for both setting valves and matching where the advance would line up.
c. Lights off as fast as a fuel injected bike if not dead even. Can't be coil misfire and vibrate.

3. Fuel:
a. Absolutely without a doubt, that is a clean circuit in each hole of that carb(s).
b. The spark plugs will eventually turn tan, but they are low mile gray as in the best color, but we are talking looking at the bottom of the porcelain with a special plug reader, and using race gas. So looking at the top of the nose of the porcelain, that visual looks well tuned.
c. The response as if the floats are off. Not even.

Sub variables:
Those would be oil level so as to cook the piston skirts and that being 'splash lube' cooling and lubing the skirts. That goes back to the ring damage being stuck by the snowballing effect of material coming off the skirts, then the knock as mentioned.

The crank being the out of balance but is it? The initial spin up and shutdown of watching the crank thru the timing light video, I'm looking at the crank for the vibe I do not see.

Or is it that guy with the ear in the Daytona 500, and it's getting so close to the final lap, the noise that was always there is now the driver is listening, breaks concentration thinking the car is about to fail before the end.

Or is it a non-abused looking used and strange bike? And then there is the ear is not familiar with another cylinder added? And I quote, "Also new to twins.. "

Signed,
NOLTT
 

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In-out looks normal. What is not are the rollers, the slop in the chain tension, and a crank gear tooth that looks more worn than the rest. So maybe it's noise not vibration? Tighten the cam chain see if it helps.
 

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ben, when you WOT the throttle in the video, and the gas flow btw is nice and fast flowing, but getting back to the throttle response of whacking it open? First, that's a normal move for the beginner, amateur, or this side of a journeyman knowing that kind of air draw applied that quick, the air wins. No gas or AFR (air to fuel ratio) is not there.

And the next slap the the forehead is to remember you are adding wear-time standing still, minus the ride time. It says the compression burns out sooner because of, well, the Squid Move. The not knowing all what that rev means to the taffy of the piston speed at the rod stretch, and all that abuse is the rev-a-lot.

You're wearing it out chasing for imaginary marbles. Engines disintegrate within seconds, if not minutes; snowballing the parts that rubs against the next part and so on. Think a rod out of the case. But this is not the case.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 

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Ben, I've been around engines most of my life and say 60yrs worth has my ear and eye trained and focused in on an engine. I'm trying to recall if that has a large drain plug at the bottom? Where I'd find a 90° pencil magnet, or bend it 90, then sweep the bottom of the case 360° and see if the magnet will pick up steel of any kind.

Plus, the drained oil will have a metallic surface or silver surface, all speckle like or floating on the surface. That would be aluminum being shaved, chewed, rechewed, the oil pump blades are getting chewed up as well. So by wearing a rubber glove, wipe the bottom with your finger, and scoop it out the hole in the oil. Now drop the unaltered pencil magnetic in the oil pan, drag and see what comes up. That's bearings going.

But again, starts fast, revs good, rotor is not vibrating, and yes, an out of sync carb set would induce some. So some tricks are:
1. WOT the throttle and then retract the throttle real slow. Your eyes are seeing the slide come down at the edge of the opening.
2. So that pull is showing both cable are spring tight, You just match, or get close so both of those are just coming out of the top of the hole diameter.
3. The adjuster is the at the top of the carb? Maybe an 8mm open end wrench for the locknut? Most likely one is really screwed out from the other?
4. Say the slides at the top are adjusted close at the WOT. Now unscrew the idle screws out so the slides bottom out on the closed end.
5. Now you hardly open the throttle and note who begins to lift first? So you didn't lock the nut up top, you made sure you had full clearance at that hole at WOT.
6. If it takes a little bit more turn either way to get them balanced by eye, now you tap the slide with the idle screw, note to just back it off so it does not move. Then do the same to the other side. Then turn in 1 full turn, magic mark the screw slot up at the carb body's idle hole. Now you know your one turn in.
7. Get the bike hot. You should know the initial turn out number at the air screw and leave it there. Equally turn the idle screws 1/4 turn at a time.

Make sense? Ballpark sync and now take it for a ride. see if that changed anything. Use any weight oil. and top it off at the stick.
 

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Correct, I did not see those two vids. So it's a vibrator for sure. Maybe too many posts and thinking is this only 11,000mi bike, it's plenty tight, but looks like it's not. And I believe that much end play is out of spec as well. For sure makes the rotor out of whack.

Probably the paper is fresh enough to use again, even the head gasket. Spit the cases, pull the crank bearing and match the numbers on a website and order up. Top end is the whole ball of wax and you've got that end squared away. The bike is all there. You have no problem busting that thing down and back together.

Bike like that is a no brainer.

.
 
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