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I was riding the other day, when the bike started running poorly. Would idle rough, but not rev or have any power. Since it happened so suddenly, I assumed it was electrical. After a bit of messing around, I got it to run well enough to barely get home (only a mile away). Here's what I know so far:

The way I got it to run better was to turn on the high beam.
I've got a Oregon motorcycle parts reg/rect. so I doubt that is the issue, although it is possible.
One of the coils was ooozing, so I got a new one, but to no avail.
The pages tend to fall out of my repair manual, and I am missing the pages with the wiring diagram and the info on checking the stator, but there is no resistance between any of the wires coming from the stator.
I was hoping someone could let me know what I need to do to sort out this electrickery.
 

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rotundapig said:
I was riding the other day, when the bike started running poorly. Would idle rough, but not rev or have any power. Since it happened so suddenly, I assumed it was electrical. After a bit of messing around, I got it to run well enough to barely get home (only a mile away). Here's what I know so far:

The way I got it to run better was to turn on the high beam.
I've got a Oregon motorcycle parts reg/rect. so I doubt that is the issue, although it is possible.
One of the coils was ooozing, so I got a new one, but to no avail.
The pages tend to fall out of my repair manual, and I am missing the pages with the wiring diagram and the info on checking the stator, but there is no resistance between any of the wires coming from the stator.
I was hoping someone could let me know what I need to do to sort out this electrickery.
There should be close to zero resistance between the stator wires - they're coils.
They should NOT pass any current to ground though....

The black ooze from the coils is broken-down insulating material from inside the coil. It migrates down the inside of the wire to the plug cap - replacement is the only option at that point. They act up worse once the bike gets hot.
Turn on the high beam ?? I'm afraid that's a new one to me......I'm inclined to think that maybe there's a current "leak" somewhere in that switch, maybe, since your bike runs with lights on all the time.
 

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Well, I don't know doodly either but, it is my understanding that the stator has coils that charge all the time and then another set that is activated when the headlight is on.

That might be why it runs better with the headlamp on.

Start out with the basics. Is the battery good? A bad battery will cause the problem and turning on the headlight (if I'm right about the charging coils) will increase the available voltage. If the battery is fully charged, the bike should run fine irregardless of the charging systems condition-- that is, until it drops below 11.5V. If so, a simple test with a volt meter across the + & - with the engine at 2000 RPM should tell you what's up. If it's below 13.5V but, when you turn on the headlight, it comes up-- that points to a bad stator.
 

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I believe the 500T is a lights on all the time model, and the third coil is permanently "engaged".
If so, you should see the yellow and white/yellow wires from the harness already plugged into each other in the the headlight shell.
 

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Third pair of coils factory jumpered.......(supposed to be anyway)......
Sounds like the "oregon" unit is not being properly grounded, has boiled out battery..which then doesn't act as an additional "buffer" or regulator, and the oregon unit sends too much power (amperage) to the coils, breaking down the insulation from overheating........
overheated oregon unit can also allow AC to the battery, "killing" it.........
 

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Gotta laugh-- at myself! Forgot about it being a lights on all the time bike and Steve pretty much "bingo'd it" I'd bet on it!
Somewhere in my brain -- bad battery and AC current relationship was rattling around-- I swear they were. The coil spewing goobers-- that pretty much clinches it.

Must say, it is fun trying to match wits with a couple of pro's!
 
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