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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At around 5000k and above, my turn signals are incredibly bright, as is the indicator on the "dash," and they flash super fast. I'm assuming this is too much voltage. I swapped both the regulator and rectifier with identical parts for a defunct cb360 in my garage, and it performs exactly the same. Could it be that the regulators from both bikes are toast? I read here somewhere a suggestion, to a guy complaining of the same problem, that he may not have wired the regulator correctly. Can anyone tell me what colored wires go where? Right now the three wires from the regulator plug into connectors attached to the exact same color wires. Apart from burning out light bulb filaments, is it hard on the bike to run it with too much voltage output?
 

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Sensei
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You need to check both the battery and the regulator......

It sounds like both regulators are/could be bad....and this could "cook" your battery....

Of course, An already "bad" battery won't accept a charge, ... the bike still produces the electricity to recharge, and the energy has to go somewhere, so it burns out the lights....... Dirty connections from the rectifier to the battery can also cause this situation... (the red/white stripe wire and the green wire)....The power can't "get' to the battery, so goes elsewhere.....

Note that the regulator casing is originally insulated from both vibration and chassis ground by rubber bushings (the ONLY ground should be the green wire)....It is easy to accidentally case ground the regulators (overtightened bolts, too large of washers on those bolts, "cut" in the rubber insulator, etc) and this will/can cause them NOT to work.....

Check out those things as well as checking for clean electrical connections, and let us know......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks 665sprint; the rubber regulator mounting bushings had an aluminum sleeve within that the bolts pass through. I wondered, when I switched regulators, whether those would ground the regulator to the frame, but assumed that they must be there for a reason. Maybe I overtightened the bolts, so the aluminum sleeves ground the regulator. I'll try backing off on the bolts a little, (they won't fall out?) Or maybe the previous amateur mechanic put 'em in there. I'll try removing the sleeves altogether if it's still happening.
Here I go! WooHoo! Mechanical detective work is sure fun..... up to a point!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
....following my previous post by a minute or so.... results from this regulator work will have to wait modification and reassembly of my carbs. I know this is an electrical issues forum, but maybe you can advise me on this issue:
Wondered if I was running lean: runs beautifully except for a little backfiring/popping on deceleration, a sputtering brief hesitation whenever I back off on the throttle even a tiny bit, unless I back off really slowly.
--Did a "chop test" with new plugs, guy at a Honda shop looked at 'em, said yep, lean.
--Have installed aftermarket mufflers with huge output diameter compared to the stock mufflers.
--Don't know about jetting, but am running 68s and 110s. I believe the terminology is, 68 is the primary, 110 is the main? Would like to fix it today, do I have to find and wait for delivery of replacement jets, or can I get a machine shop to bore out these, maybe one at a time, to a larger size?
The other idea I've heard is to shim the jet needle 1/2 mm or so. I've tried that, and the needle hits the bottom of its retaining screw, so no longer has any wiggle, which I assume it needs to self-center. I'm thinking of carefully grinding off 1/2 mm from the top edges of the needle, so it clears the retaining screw when it has a shim under it.
Hungry for advice! Thanks!
 

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Stock is 68/68 so you have a lot of jet in there on the (most likely) secondary main. I'm no carb pro, but I would think if you were running lean at WOT you would be better off setting the jet up a little. You "should" be able to get jets locally, but I've never actually tried to buy any.

You must have some high flowing exhaust to need bigger than a 110 main jet.
 

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Sharkmonkey said:
Stock is 68/68 so you have a lot of jet in there on the (most likely) secondary main. I'm no carb pro, but I would think if you were running lean at WOT you would be better off setting the jet up a little. You "should" be able to get jets locally, but I've never actually tried to buy any.

You must have some high flowing exhaust to need bigger than a 110 main jet.
stock is 68 & 100. I would try a 110 with the pipes. Seems like I was running 115 with aftermarket mufflers & outer air boxes removed.
 

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Rampage1967 said:
Sharkmonkey said:
Stock is 68/68 so you have a lot of jet in there on the (most likely) secondary main. I'm no carb pro, but I would think if you were running lean at WOT you would be better off setting the jet up a little. You "should" be able to get jets locally, but I've never actually tried to buy any.

You must have some high flowing exhaust to need bigger than a 110 main jet.
stock is 68 & 100. I would try a 110 with the pipes. Seems like I was running 115 with aftermarket mufflers & outer air boxes removed.
Stock for the 360 (per the service manual) is 68/68. Stock for the 250 was 68/100. Unless the service manual I have (and the only one I've seen online) and clymer manual I have are both wrong. With stock pipes and air boxes I'm running 68/68 and the mix is correct. Not that it's important to bentley, who seems to need a 115.
 
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