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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a new starter solenoid which has y/r and g/r wires and two posts. Old one has y/r and blk. wires and two posts where heavier wires attach it to the battery and main harness. Can I attach new y/r to y/r in harness and g/r to blk in harness then attach heavier wires from the harness and battery to the same posts on the solenoid as the old one?
Jack
 

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Got a new starter solenoid which has y/r and g/r wires and two posts. Old one has y/r and blk. wires and two posts where heavier wires attach it to the battery and main harness. Can I attach new y/r to y/r in harness and g/r to blk in harness then attach heavier wires from the harness and battery to the same posts on the solenoid as the old one?
Jack
Need to know year of the bike. Also, does the right control pod have a headlight on/off switch?

The solenoids are wired differently on 74-early 75 versus late 75-to 76 model years.

Heavy wires go to posts, no polarity to thecwires....the lighter wires arecdifferent. Either older bikes have 12v to one owire, other goes to handlebar button. Handlebar buttons grounds to start. On late model, one wire is grounded and handlebar button sends 12v to solenoid.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bike is titled as a '76 but I believe it is a late '74 or early'75 because it does have the headlight on/off on the right hand switch.
Jack
 

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Well, black was switched HOT on the early models at that location, so that's either 74 or early 75. Wiring wise, its just a relay switch so connect the large terminals the same, make sure the smaller R/W and R wires are connected to the same terminal as the cable coming FROM the battery or else you won't have power to the rest of the bike.

Connect the two smaller terminals Y/R to Y/R and BK to the G/R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Clipped off the old connecter and put new male and female bullet fittings on the new solenoid wires. Attached new y/r to y/r in harness and g/r to blk in harness then attached heavier wires from the harness and battery to the same posts on the solenoid as the old ones. Everything works fine.
Jack
 

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If you want a have a SPARE - the OEM ones can be opened up and refreshed.

There is a Paragraph in the FSM that outlines how they work and what to do.

The 1st TEST is Continuity thru the COIL.
You should be able to measure resistance between the (2) smaller wires.
An OPEN Circuit MAX Resistance indicates a Bad Coil and throw it out No repair possible.

These wires energize an Electro-Magnet.
Remember the 3rd grade science experiments of wrapping a coil of wire around an Iron Nail then connecting the ends of the wire to a battery and creating a Magnet?

That is what is inside the solenoid.
The Magnet PULLS down on an IRON CORE.

There is a large COPPER Contact attached to the Iron Core that bridges the (2) Heavy Wire Contacts.

An Electronic Switch.
Using a Low Amp (small WIRES) circuit to Make a SWITCH that connects the (2) HIGH AMP Contacts.

To Repair the unit once opened up your will typically find the HIGH AMP contacts Burned.
As every time they make contact there is a fairly large SPARK that occurs - The same as if your shorted out a battery terminal to ground.

Burned Contacts = High Resistance - Poor Connection.
Not capable of passing the HIGH AMP Current required by the Starter.
By taking a Light File to the contacts they can be freshed so they make a clean connection.
 
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