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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did some searches and similar issues have been touched on.

I went to start the bike this evening. *One Click* in the starter and nothing else.
The headlight shut off as I was pushing the start button as it should.
Tried a couple more times. Same result. It reminds me of the starter on my mothers '68 buick that needed a rap with a hammer every now and again to keep it in line.

Figured I would start simple. Jumped it off my car and it started. Stalled and could not get it started again.
Even with the jumper cables, I am getting just a *Click*
Rode it a couple of times last week. No problem starting and running. Made a couple of stops and restarts and it was ok.
I keep it on a battery tender.
I get 12.5V at the battery terminals. I know that is not indicative of anything concrete.

I did try to ground the red/yellow from the solenoid and get absolutely nothing.

Just to clarify below before I blow anything up...

Jump two large terminal wires. Do you mean to put a short between the large lugs on the solenoid with all connected and key on?


66Sprint said:
4 wires to the solenoid...two big, two small..... with key on, ground the red/yellow wire...Solenoid should click and starter turns over (bad push button)... If click but no spin-over, then jump the two large terminals/wires.... starter should spin.... (bad solenoid internal contacts)...if no spin, bad starter or battery.....If no click, bad solenoid windings
Is there a static test for the solenoid if I remove it from the bike?
Is there a static test for the starter?

My thought is that it just may be the battery. This is the battery from the PO and it seems to have a date code of
09-04-01.
I really thought this battery could not be that old and still functioning.

I cannot kickstart because I am waiting for the weather to change to dig in and change the shaft.

Any help as always will be greatly appreciated.

jon
 

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Sensei
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OK...You have the "reversed" start circuit (headlight shuts off)...... The click indicates the solenoid is actuating, but that does not mean the power is getting through the internal contacts to the starter motor....... Try jumping across the large solenoid post (bolt) terminals (in neutral)....with a screwdriver or similar metal tool..... If starter motor turns, it's bad internal contact(s)....Key does NOT need to be on....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
66Sprint said:
OK...You have the "reversed" start circuit (headlight shuts off)...... The click indicates the solenoid is actuating, but that does not mean the power is getting through the internal contacts to the starter motor....... Try jumping across the large solenoid post (bolt) terminals (in neutral)....with a screwdriver or similar metal tool..... If starter motor turns, it's bad internal contact(s)....Key does NOT need to be on....
I just tried it. I got nothing but a quick shot of sparks.

Two small wires are connected (red/yellow and green/red)
Large wire(black) connected to one lug.
Other lug has thick wire to Bat+ and another thick wire (whic contains red and red/white) connected to white plug.
 

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Sensei
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Well then, your starter motor itself is bad (you just jumped it directly to the battery and it didn't spin... Sparking indicates the connection WAS made).... OR your battery is too weak to spin it over..... You CAN jump just the start motor from a nearby car battery by connecting the jumper from the car B- (negative) terminal to the bike chassis, and touching the jumper from the cars B+ (positive) terminal directly to the terminal on the starter motor (a "bolt" under the rubber boot on the top of the starter motor).... Essentially this is exactly what you just did with the bike's battery by jumping the solenoid..... be careful NOT to short against the chassis or engine itself...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
66Sprint said:
Well then, your starter motor itself is bad (you just jumped it directly to the battery and it didn't spin... Sparking indicates the connection WAS made).... OR your battery is too weak to spin it over..... You CAN jump just the start motor from a nearby car battery by connecting the jumper from the car B- (negative) terminal to the bike chassis, and touching the jumper from the cars B+ (positive) terminal directly to the terminal on the starter motor (a "bolt" under the rubber boot on the top of the starter motor).... Essentially this is exactly what you just did with the bike's battery by jumping the solenoid..... be careful NOT to short against the chassis or engine itself...
Ok. I did jump it from the car directly. My bike has no boot on the terminal. Just the wire lug connecting it and a couple of metal washers and non conductive washer at the bottom of the terminal on the starter housing. After I tried it and got a spark and a click, I checked with an ohmmeter. That lug reads as a short to ground. Not sure if that is normal. It was with the wire lug connected and disconnected.

Looks like a bad starter. This bike really does not want to run. First the kickshaft breaks now the starter.

Thanks for all your help.
 

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Sensei
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The windings would cause it to read a "short" to ground....but if it won't spin over with 12V applied.... Its jammed or bad....
 
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