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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So finally got the case split after a few days waiting for the socket for the slot nut in the oil filter.

Looking at the kick starter, was expecting broken teeth thinking that's why it wasn't turning the engine until the bottom of the kick. The teeth were all fine, but need to replace anyways because the splines for the kick lever are almost all gone. I did find what looked like a broken snap ring (Pic attached) that looks to keep the advancing gear from going too far. Quite possibly the main culprit.

Also when splitting the case, there was a random small black tube sitting in between some gears. Pic also attached. Anyone know where that came from? Almost looks like a coffee straw but has a smaller interior diameter.
 

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The black tube is an extension off a spray can. Most likely someone was using a spray product though the oil filler cap and it came off.

Can't help you on the other matters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Funny, that was my first thought. Glad someone else agrees. First time in a crankcase so wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something stupid.
 

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Previous owner hadn't changed the oil in a while, looks nasty in there. :-?

Here's a photo of the kickstart assembly:

DSCF1979.jpg DSCF1980.jpg
 

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You have a manual and know of cmsnl for the exploded views?

The broken spring as shown in mr pitmans pictures has a clutch slipping action that causes the kick start gear to move along the helix for kick start gear engagement and withdrawl.
 

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You have a manual and know of cmsnl for the exploded views?

The broken spring as shown in mr pitmans pictures has a clutch slipping action that causes the kick start gear to move along the helix for kick start gear engagement and withdrawl.
It's a poor design. If the kick start is operated when the engine is running, something that could happen accidentally if your riding jeans got tangled with the start lever, that little gear slides along the shaft and collides with the rapidly rotating gear on the opposing shaft.

When I took my first CB175 engine apart, I found this, courtesy of the previous owner. Luckily, all the fragments were found and accounted for, safely in the bottom of the cases.

DSCF1750.jpg DSCF1758.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Previous owner hadn't changed the oil in a while, looks nasty in there.


Here's a photo of the kickstart assembly:

View attachment 276760 View attachment 276762
Yeah it was pretty nasty in there. Could tell that they couldn't get the oil plug out so probably wasn't changed in a while. The oil filter was disgusting. Had to use a bolt extractor socket to get it out and a huge breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah I have seen a few cases of that issue just looking around online. Makes me nervous, would rather not replace this again. That and it can create bigger issues with stuff bouncing in the case chewing up teeth. Since it was just the snap ring that was broke, I am thinking someone was just kicking too hard. Hopefully that isn't because of any bigger issues that I dont know about yet.
 

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yeah I have seen a few cases of that issue just looking around online. Makes me nervous, would rather not replace this again. That and it can create bigger issues with stuff bouncing in the case chewing up teeth. Since it was just the snap ring that was broke, I am thinking someone was just kicking too hard. Hopefully that isn't because of any bigger issues that I dont know about yet.
There's already a sparkle to that oil, the helix section of the starter shaft seems to have lost some metal on the narrow side of the retaining groove ( next to the broken clip)
As for the what bike / build thread the easiest thing is just add to this thread instead of starting a new one for each question, stripped bolt in the oil filter, gummed clutch plates, as you'll find mostly you'll get answers from Steve, Richard, Mike, C.Chicken,Tools, A.Dad, and myself and we all know you're building a Cl175 sloper K0 ( blue) that's registered as a 69.
 

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Hi Kyler,

I am just finishing up a 1968 CL175 Sloper (candy blue).
I'll try and be gentle with the starter arm, after reading your posts.
A question I posted back in Nov, and never found an answer, is what are the sizes and correct location of the "power jets" in the top section of the carbs. Later model carbs for the 175 (like a 1970 CL) did not have this circuit. There are 2 jets per carb, located in the top section, one for air that has a small tube going to the air cleaner) and the other under a cover cap on the carb side. The carbs on my bike came disassembled, so I do not know what jet size went where.
Do you have carbs like this?

Many thanks.

Michael

1966 CB77
1968 CL175
1972 CT90
 

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A question I posted back in Nov, and never found an answer, is what are the sizes and correct location of the "power jets" in the top section of the carbs. There are 2 jets per carb, located in the top section, one for air that has a small tube going to the air cleaner) and the other under a cover cap on the carb side. The carbs on my bike came disassembled, so I do not know what jet size went where.
Do you have carbs like this?

Many thanks.

Michael
Michael, the standard size for both "power" jets was a #160....The same size in both places...(one in "hose", and one under cap)....

The jets were available in sizes ranging from #150 to#170 in increments of 5 (#150, #155, etc)......

Honda part number for the standard size jets is 99144-235-1600
 

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Jet sizes

Michael, the standard size for both "power" jets was a #160....The same size in both places...(one in "hose", and one under cap)....

The jets were available in sizes ranging from #150 to#170 in increments of 5 (#150, #155, etc)......

Honda part number for the standard size jets is 99144-235-1600
Hello Sprint 66,

Thank you for your reply, I have read many of your past posts on this list and your knowledge base is VERY impressive.
One of the jets in the carbs is indeed a 160, and the other is a 140. Perhaps, once warmer weather returns to snowy Mn and I fire the bike up, I will see how it runs with the present sizes.
Do you know what portion of the carb operating range these jets effect? Is it just for full slide opening, or, the entire carb range? That would certainly help in the tuning.

Many thanks again.

Michael
 

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Michael, My advice to you would be to order in two #160 jets and return the carbs to the standard......

See how it runs and THEN proceed to alter/adjust the jetting as and if necessary...

A #140 is 4 steps smaller than the smallest jet the Honda engineers calculated would ever be required.......

IF its position controls fuel, you will be running leaner (hotter in a bad way) than anticipated by Honda, and if it's controlling air, you will possibly be excessively rich...(also not good, but better than too lean)....

Your main jet is probably a #90 (std) and its range of sizes is from #80 to #110......
 

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Excellent point. Always best to start from stock specs. Lean running can hole a piston.

I'll look around for some 160 jets. Anyone have a pair they would like to part with?

I know I have some old smaller main jets, has anyone tried drilling out jets to a correct larger size?

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Kyler,

Do you know what jets are in your carbs?

Thanks,

Michael
Im not sure off hand. Dont know how to tell by looks either. If someone can point out to me how to check I can certainly go take a look and let you know for sure. I would imagine they are the stock #160
 
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