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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newbie K6'r here requesting some help.
I've been reading quite a bit on the forum but keep finding holes in useful posts or pictures missing. My bike is running ok but I suspect I may be a 150psi club member. I'm hoping for detailed instructions on carb syncing and float adjustment, I've heard the "straw method," and "credit card" methods mentioned but no real instructions.
Also curious how one tests compression with the throttle wide open--bike is hot but off and you use the kickstart? When adding oil, I assume you mean a few drops down the spark plug hole?

On another note, can anyone tell me about my fairing and rack/sissy bar? surely not OEM(?)[attachment=0:2umbo87i]dirty honda.jpg[/attachment:2umbo87i]

Thanks in advance,
Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That link is mostly swiss cheese and speculation about carb modification. But thanks, Berb, because there was one sweet nugget in those seven pages which I managed to miss the first time...

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/s ... =firefox-a

That is the original post on carb synching which has since been shredded. I will try that tomorrow.

Now, anybody have the Float Adjustment link saved?

Thanks
 

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This might help too, along with the other post.

These are obviously different carb models but give you an idea of the procedure..


This picture shows a similar method being used: http://www.factorypro.com/images/carb_s ... _0291%20(5).JPG

Pay close attention to how this guy describes the underside of the carb bodies..

You can see the two points where the tool contacts the carb body. Think of that as the credit card after cutting it to allow the float to drop to the correct height. Where the two points contact the carb body you should see two flat areas on the underside of the carb body allowing the use of such a DIY tool. The rest of the underside of the body should have a raised lip of sorts that helps to center the float bowl...

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/float_ ... _gauge.htm

Note the part here about the spring loaded pin in the float needle valve:
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/carb/a ... flthgt.htm

I've used this method before. The long "pin" that comes out of the end of a digital/analog caliper works well for setting them too..
http://www.ktm950.info/how/carbs/Jettin ... _level.jpg


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, Berb. The first and last links are not working, unfortunately. The middle two are the same link. I'd love to make one of the cards but I need some measurements and directions still. I'll hold out a bit before taking the carbs off and taking T-square to it.

The flipper trick did reveal that my right carb throttle was leaving just a little early and that is the side I've always had problems on. I took a 30 mile trip today and didn't have any bogging at (modest) highway speeds. I hope that continues! Great link.

Brandon
 

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Berb said:
This might help too, along with the other post.

These are obviously different carb models but give you an idea of the procedure..


This picture shows a similar method being used: http://www.factorypro.com/images/carb_s ... _0291%20(5).JPG

Pay close attention to how this guy describes the underside of the carb bodies..

You can see the two points where the tool contacts the carb body. Think of that as the credit card after cutting it to allow the float to drop to the correct height. Where the two points contact the carb body you should see two flat areas on the underside of the carb body allowing the use of such a DIY tool. The rest of the underside of the body should have a raised lip of sorts that helps to center the float bowl...

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/float_ ... _gauge.htm

Note the part here about the spring loaded pin in the float needle valve:
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/carb/a ... flthgt.htm

I've used this method before. The long "pin" that comes out of the end of a digital/analog caliper works well for setting them too..
http://www.ktm950.info/how/carbs/Jettin ... _level.jpg


GB :mrgreen:

I get nothing from any of those links. Plus I don't know why my signature is in your post.. :lol:


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Sorry GB. I copied and pasted from another thread. The links work there but not after I pasted them. Now I can't remember the tread that I found them at. My bad. :|
 

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blindsquirrel said:
I'd love to make one of the cards but I need some measurements and directions still. I'll hold out a bit before taking the carbs off and taking T-square to it.
Brandon
Here's a pic of the card I made, with dimensions ;)
 

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blindsquirrel said:
Thanks Black Bomber, I'll give that a try.
Brown Bomber :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OOps. Sorry about that. I thought you were the other bomber :)

Got a new puzzle.

When I get low on gas, my right cylinder cuts out. I switch to reserve and the bike sounds like its screaming morse code as the cylinder fires bah....bah bah......bah ba bahhhh...bah........bah bah. Does this until I get gas then the problem goes away. Left cylinder continues as normal.

Valves adjusted, just timed, throttle linkage on the carbs is right, new fuel filters.
180psi in left cylinder / 160psi in the right
The right carb obviously has the shorter fuel line coming off the petcock--any correlation?

Other than the lackluster compression, the bike runs great for the first 95-100 miles on a tank. Can cruise at 70-75mph no problems and she still idles when I get back to town.

Any Ideas?
 

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Sounds like it's starved for fuel. Check the gas cap vent, if it's stopped up then when the pressure in the tank gets low it's not getting enough fuel, and the shorter hose would feel it first. The vent can be taken apart and cleaned pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good idea, Brown. Coincidentally I just got a new OEM gas cap gasket yesterday. I'll let you know in 85 miles if your fix works.
Thanks again,
Brandon
 

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Brandon....
You do know that a 20 PSI difference in cylinder compression is beyond the spec'd limits....Right?.... Also 163 is the minimum spec before re-ringing.....With that difference, your "better" cylinder is having to waste some of its energy to keep the "worse" cylinder running...Imagine how well it would run if both were at 180....... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New rings coming this winter at the latest. Maybe earlier because I'm picking up a V-Strom in Cleveland in a couple weeks. Hated to tear into the CB when it was running and I didn't have another bike to ride.

BTW, is it fair to assume with 180/160psi that simply replacing the rings will do it? Bike's got 24K on it and everything but the seat seems original. I'm assuming those rings are 37 years old. Just hoping I don't need to do anything more major.

8 years ago (and likely less than 3K) I had the bike up to 105mph. If memory serves I slowed down because of the handling--not because the motor was giving up.

Brandon
 

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With 24k on it you may do best to prepare yourself mentally (and financially) for it needing more than just rings. The cylinders may need bored and honed, new pistons, and the gaskets of course. Then there's the followers, etc...



GB :mrgreen:
 

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That's why we keep him here...He cheers everyone up (compared to me....LOL)
 

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I could've said: "That thing's a clapped out piece of crap. Sell it."

BUT I like to try to encourage members here to stay involved and work on their machines so they can learn while teaching others along the way. Myself included. We've had machines here with that high of mileage easily, and some here that were abandoned in the weeds/mud/snow/ice. You can tackle that top end rebuild, but just prepare yourself mentally and financially for "surprises" that pop up along the way. ;)

Keep us informed and ask plenty of questions. We'll help all we can. :D


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mojo- guess I forgot the smileys. No offense was taken. I've never had an engine apart but in the 8 years of owning this beauty I've had a lot of firsts. This forum is awesome--had I known about it earlier maybe the thing would've been running for more of that 8 years!

Latest issue is that I've got the oil seals exposed behind the front sprocket/clutch/shifter. I know I'm leaking from there somewhere but can't tell which seal. Yesterday I let it idle for 10 mins with some throttle revving hoping to induce the leak but no luck. Any tips on causing a leak so I can watch it? Or should I just clean things up in there, put it back together and ride for a few days?

Thanks folks,
Brandon
 
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