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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this is what I am trying to figure out: I adjusted my clutch per the cb200 shop manual which was pretty vague and the pics are fuzzy (pdf). The clutch, after my initial adjustment, seems off, like it is slipping, at 70 mph on a flat road in 5th gear the tach indicates 7200 or so Rpm. Is that typical? The clutch also seems to really have a hard time on moderate hills and does not perform well after the bike has been cruising near top speed for a while. It also kinda bogs as the clutch engages when I am pulling away from a stop. I would like to know if anyone has any tips and tricks for optimizing my cb200 clutch. If you think the clutch should be replaced (it has 6200 miles at this point, I don't ride the bike hard at all), can someone point out a resource the can walk me through replacing the clutch friction rings and springs, again the shop manual was not very clear to me. Is there a quick and somewhat easy way to remove the basket and inspect/resurface/replace the rings? I would really appreciate any and all help with this.
 

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Sensei
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Sounds like you need adjustment, not a new clutch..... Humor me...what type of oil are you using (Brand and weight)...Now, HOW much slack is in the cable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just changed the oil to Rotella 30 weight, I live in los angeles, so I fiugure I'm good there, and as far as slack goes, It is to the spec in the shop manual, the bike has 6500 miles on it too. Thanks for you help, I really appreciate it. Do you have any tips and techniques for pulling a clutch to check the plates?
 

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Sensei
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First, you'll need a new right side-cover gasket, the "special" oil filter spanner socket, and likely an impact driver to get the Phillips-head bolts out of the cases..... Once you are ready...I'll detail step-by step.....
HOWEVER, I doubt it's due to worn-out plates @6500 Unless you "slip" the clutch or drag race... They COULD need cleaned (although they usually "stick" rather than "slip" in that case)...... I had over 40,000 miles on my 450 before I changed the clutch friction plates (HARD miles!)......I would STILL suspect it's the adjustment....1/8 of a turn on the pushrod adjuster bolt can make a world of difference......
 

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Sensei
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First, remove the chrome clutch "cover" (two bolts)
Second, Loosen the adjuster at the handlebar perch until it is about 3/4 of the way in...(maximise slack here, but allow a little room to "tune" the pull length)

As a check here, pull the lever into the grip...IF you feel any "clutch" other than the slight spring pull from the spring inside the cover, increase the slack using the adjuster at the (lower) case end of the cable.......

Once you have no "feel" to the clutch, loosen the locknut on the pushrod adjuster bolt and turn the bolt CCW until NO "touch" or pressure is felt....... Then turn it CW until you JUST feel pressure... Then back CCW 1/4 turn..... Lock it down there.

Take out all excess cable slack using the "bottom" cable adjuster, but DON'T have any "pull" on the cable .... You can check this by the amount of travel at the ball end of the lever..... Ball should move 1/2 to 3/4 inch towards the grip before "pull" is felt, but should return gently and fully to the perch (pulled that last little bit by the lower spring so the lever doesn't "rattle").... When you get these results, lock down the lower cable adjuster.....
The perch adjuster can then be used to "tune" the exact point you want the clutch to "grab" or release (depending on hand size/finger length)...and to compensate for cable "stretch" when that occurs.....
 

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66Sprint said:
First, Lube the clutch worm by pumping a shot of grease into the left rear case cover using the zerk....
I think it all happens under the right engine (clutch) cover on a CB200 - a mqjor difference from 175.
 

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Sensei
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As usual Bill, You are correct about the location....
(So embarrassed...I WAS thinking exactly the same as a 350.... :oops: )
The above proceedure has been corrected specific to the 200...... Steve
 
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