[tnhines]

I just put in a new cam holder on the left side and am getting a ton of chatter on the valves. I am assuming that my adjuster screws are not down far enough, but Im not sure if thats the solution. What is the approach to get the tuning right on those valve tab adjuster screws?

 

[dirceucorsetti]

I just put in a new cam holder on the left side and am getting a ton of chatter on the valves. I am assuming that my adjuster screws are not down far enough, but Im not sure if thats the solution. What is the approach to get the tuning right on those valve tab adjuster screws?

Are you using the right gap between the valves when top dead center? Get the factory specs and adjust them to the precise gap.

Also: let the bike sit overnight to make the adjustments when she's cold.

 

[longdistancerider]

Valve adjustment time. This is done dead cold or after parked 8 hours
Remove the plugs, shifter lever and left engine case cover. Grab the rotor and turn CCW till the cast pointer at the top of the case is pointing at the T mark. One cylinder's valves will have some play, those are the ones you're adjusting. Intake = .004" Exhaust = .006"
Loosen the adjuster nuts, insert the correct feeler blade between the adjuster and top of valve. Using 2 fingers, 2 not 3 or 4, on the screwdriver tighten the screw until it stops turning, now snug the lock nut down. The feeler blade should slide in and out with a slight drag/resistance. Slides easy/no drag felt or it pull out but won't go in? Readjust until it's right and move on to the next valve. Once the first side is done turn the rotor again 1 full turn to the T mark and repeat on the other side.

 

[tnhines]

Valve adjustment time. This is done dead cold or after parked 8 hours
Remove the plugs, shifter lever and left engine case cover. Grab the rotor and turn CCW till the cast pointer at the top of the case is pointing at the T mark. One cylinder's valves will have some play, those are the ones you're adjusting. Intake = .004" Exhaust = .006"
Loosen the adjuster nuts, insert the correct feeler blade between the adjuster and top of valve. Using 2 fingers, 2 not 3 or 4, on the screwdriver tighten the screw until it stops turning, now snug the lock nut down. The feeler blade should slide in and out with a slight drag/resistance. Slides easy/no drag felt or it pull out but won't go in? Readjust until it's right and move on to the next valve. Once the first side is done turn the rotor again 1 full turn to the T mark and repeat on the other side.

Thanks! Where do I get a set of feeler blades?

 

[ancientdad]

Pretty much any auto parts store, just make sure the set has small increments (.002", .003, .004, etc) so you get the sizes required for your bike

 

[tnhines]

Pretty much any auto parts store, just make sure the set has small increments (.002", .003, .004, etc) so you get the sizes required for your bike

Is this what I need? https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68050-Valve-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B0009OR94M/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009OR94M&pd_rd_r=YTAM7595GTJZPRNJXFP5&pd_rd_w=RVRpy&pd_rd_wg=mEwj6&psc=1&refRID=YTAM7595GTJZPRNJXFP5

 

[dtsmjr8dan]

No. As Tom said above, you need from 0.002" up. Should also include the 0.004" for your intake valve gap and 0.006" for your exhaust valve gap.

 

[longdistancerider]

Is this what I need? https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68050-...rd_wg=mEwj6&psc=1&refRID=YTAM7595GTJZPRNJXFP5

Don't know about that one but this one is what you want
https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades...&qid=1502405128&sr=8-4&keywords=feelers+gauge