[jprice90]

I mean to adjust

 

[longdistancerider]

They are exactly the same except for the bottom of the blade, so yes adjustment is the same

 

[elhefa]

any ideas on where to find a tensioner and a guide? cms...no go. not much luck on ebay either. 82 cb/cm 450...

 

[Epicracer]

Message me I probably have what you need.


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[longdistancerider]

http://www.cmsnl.com shows 1 left in stock 14501-MC0-000

 

[elhefa]

Message me I probably have what you need.


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pm sent.

 

[205asobotka]

So, first of all, thank you for taking the time to post! Now, I went about trying to manually adjust my cam chain today per your guide and have a few questions. First, you say make sure there is no slack, is this literal? When pulling on the front of the chain with a screwdriver the chain does move, not a lot, but I can definitely wiggle it. Second, when pushing down on the tensioner and rotating the engine I did not feel any downward movement in the tensioner. Oh, WHY i'm trying to adjust the chain: i have an engine "tick" that increases with rpms and seems to be like it is a sound that would be made by the cam chain... Just wondering whether or not it is the case that the adjuster can get so stuck that even pushing on it won't get it to move, or?.... Thanks!

 

[longdistancerider]

The tensioner is 2 metal brackets and a spring. There have been a couple of instance where the brackets stuck together and by using the screwdriver method of pushing down on them freed them up. However pushing down and tightening the nut will over tension the blade and chain in which case the blade will wear out quickly. That's why I said push down and release before tightening. Any movement when doing the push and rotate will be so small as to barely perceive it. You can try to fashion a hook to catch the top pin area and pull up on the bracket.
I don't think you have a problem with the chain or adjuster though. I'd button it up, run thru the normal chain adjust procedure again and move on to the next thing to check out.
You might want to pull the balancer chain adjuster, plug the hole with a rag to keep oil from flying out with the stethoscope inserted thru the rag to listen to that shaft directly.

 

[205asobotka]

Sorry, should have worded it more clearly. I did not tighten the bolt while pushing down, I was referring to rotating the flywheel while pushing down, then tightening the bolt. If I were to pull the bolt in order to listen to the shaft though, it would be rather noisy since the cam chain will be rattling around... Would this really be beneficial in trying to locate the sound? Or am i reading this incorrectly?

 

[longdistancerider]

I'm suggesting that you do the normal cam chain adjustment to her, engine running at idle, loosen the nut and the tighten it back up. Then listen to the balancer shaft. Don't stuff a rag into that hole since the oil pump chain in in the vicinity of it, just plug it enough to keep oil mostly in.
A cam chain being loose makes a slapping rattle type noise that is erratic and more random then what you're describing.
The balancers would make a more rhythmic noise since they are driven by a chain but I have no idea what that would actually sound like

 

[205asobotka]

I will give it a go tomorrow when I get a chance. Also, I re-stethoscoped the sound tonight and the click seems to be loudest with the screwdriver on the right cylinder exhaust flange, and about equally as loud with the screwdriver on the front tops section of the crankcase (past the cylinders). Where I originally thought it was loudest (bottom of the right cylinder/top of crank case) is still much more noticeable than the valve cover, but not as piercing as exhaust flange/front of crankcase... Maybe an exhaust leak? Seems too simple...

 

[longdistancerider]

I'm told that the exhaust leaks on these can sound like a loose valve so maybe that's the sound you are getting

 

[205asobotka]

I'm going to pull the exhaust off tomorrow and look at the gaskets. I can only hope, lol.

 

[wv81]

I'm suggesting that you do the normal cam chain adjustment to her, engine running at idle, loosen the nut and the tighten it back up. Then listen to the balancer shaft. Don't stuff a rag into that hole since the oil pump chain in in the vicinity of it, just plug it enough to keep oil mostly in.
A cam chain being loose makes a slapping rattle type noise that is erratic and more random then what you're describing.
The balancers would make a more rhythmic noise since they are driven by a chain but I have no idea what that would actually sound like

for reference
here is a short video of my 81 cm400e motor before the balancing chain let loose.

 

[davifigo]

I hate that piece!!

For the cam chain I have completely unmont my bike ( by a professionist ) ....
That piece for the cm400 is out of production in any site I have try to buy..... so we should open my bike... and just for say.. it cost me 1.200€ in job and piece from cmlm ......

So I've buy on ebay 2hand piece.. hope your is full working now ..
If you need I make some picture of the open engine....

 

[longdistancerider]

:?: the cam chain is still available from Honda in the US 14401-MR4-901 Try www.cmsnl.com for parts, located in Netherland which is closer

 

[Armand]

Tensioning the Chain - Manual adjustment
2. Rotate the engine (the correct direction.. there's an arrow on the flywheel) until it's near the T mark, but not quite there
3. Loosen the adjuster nut.......

Alternative:
Remove the sparkplugs and turn the crank in the arrowed direction: without sparkplugs there isn't any compression and any increasing resistance during the crank-turning is caused by a cam trying to open a valve, wich again is a sign of straightened 'front-chain' causing the rear (at the tensioner) being as loose as can be = Time to loosen and re-span the chain-tensioner!
In same maner a (suspecious) check of the chain being loose can be done!

 

[longdistancerider]

Alternative:
Remove the sparkplugs and turn the crank in the arrowed direction: without sparkplugs there isn't any compression and any increasing resistance during the crank-turning is caused by a cam trying to open a valve, wich again is a sign of straightened 'front-chain' causing the rear (at the tensioner) being as loose as can be = Time to loosen and re-span the chain-tensioner!
In same maner a (suspecious) check of the chain being loose can be done!

Note that this is for an initial adjustment only, The chain will still need the proper tensioning at idle.

 

[Armand]

Note that this is for an initial adjustment only, The chain will still need the proper tensioning at idle.

Do You have that in black-on-white, and not from Clymer?
I'm asking since adjusting-during-idle systems are normally designed with one-way locking systems preventing the ratteling of the chain to Press the adjuster back, wich I imagine will be done with this 'tensioned Bow-design' :-/

 

[longdistancerider]

Armand, I'll use a Clymer manual to start a fire.
This is a one way adjuster due to the spring tension applied to the slider portion of it. As for being in print in the Honda FSM? I'd have to reread the manuals again. I do have all 4 of them at my disposal on the computer. Logic though says that any running adjustment must be made while running, not static. Static is fine for initial setup of parts like the "bench sync" of carbs, close enough to get you in the correct playing field.