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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

I've picked up another project though this one will not be my usual full nut and bolt restoration project. I've found a reasonably decent 1962 CA72 which I intend to get in decent shape and use as a runabout. The bones are good. The engine has good clean oil in to and kicks over with good compression. The plan is to tear it down, find any issues, and put the bike right. Most issues I've found so far are around the bike never having had any work done on it - original tyres, original sprocket that was barely functional, etc! Bolts and screws were largely untouched by tools, which is great but presents a challenge when the don't want to move. I have come across one issue that I'm hoping someone can help with.

It looks like the bike was stored for a long time and is rusty in one place. It happens that place is where the battery tray was and it has rotted off. I could buy another frame and do a cut up job, but they tend to be a poor condition. I would like to fabricate battery tray. I have a sheet of 1mm steel which I think is a little thicker than original gauge.

I've seen enough pictures, and at different angles, that I see what I need to do. However, I don't know the dimensions (height, width, depth, etc). The tabs that attached to the frame are still partially there so I know "where" it goes. Part of the problem is the side panel that covers the battery is missing so I don't have any terms of reference - I suppose I could have worked out much of it from the panel if I had it.

I'm sure I won't be the last person to have this issue, and I've seen battery trays in terrible condition while looking for images. I want to produce a template so others can fabricate their own battery tray. It would be simple enough to get the design right then make available as a .pdf that can be printed and used as stencils.

Any help would be very much appreciated. I'll put up some pics soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can see where the side tabs were on the frame so I can work out the width. What I don't know is where the base of the battery box will sit. If someone could measure from the knob screw hole to the base and let me know the measurement I could crack on a fabricate a frame. I have the reproduction side covers coming from the far east so it would be nice to get that work done in advance.

I have had problems with cracking at the bottom of the frame, one side in particular had cracked all the way from one side to the other. I have welded it up and it appears to be strong. I noticed another crack, less serious and appears to be in a week point between spot welded supported parts further up the frame. Is this normal or signs of particular abuse / crashing?

One issue I'm having is finding a suitable replacement speedometer / gauge. Mine is seized and it poor condition. The only saving grace is the chrome rim is very nice and I'm thinking about taking a modern GPS unit and somehow retrofitting it into the case. Has anyone tried such a thing, and come across any particular challenges around this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I did a taper bearing conversion that I thought might be useful to someone. There doesn't appear to be a kit for the CA72 / CA77 so I had to be creative. The All Balls kit for the CB77 works fine for the lower race but the upper race in the CA72 / CA77 is different. I managed to source what I needed from Pyramid Parts. The quality is not as good as All Balls but it is what it is.

Using the thinner of the two spacers you get with the All Balls kit means you are pretty much bang on the height of the stock bearing. The strange upper race meant I had to fashion a spacer. I required a 6mm spacer so used 2x 3mm thick washers that were the right width (34mm) and ground them out with my Die Grinder to the 24mm inner diameter that I needed.

It was a good wee project and I hope an improvement on the original.

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Eddie your spacers turned out very well, and i see they are working!
As far as cracks, it is 57 years old, and stamped mild steel. And it will have fatigue cracks, the metal just gets tired. If they are cleaned, and you grind a v into the crack. They should weld up nicely, and make it as good as before. Im sure others with more knowledge will come along and be of better help. Good luck and Godspeed Sir!


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