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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
good morning,

Happy to report my ride is running like a champ once again however, I noted that my rear brake light, using just my front lever only becomes illuminated when the brake is nearly 100% applied/engaged. Now, it does the same thing when the rear brake pedal is used as well. It's possible it might have always operated this way but to err on the side of caution, shouldn't the light become illuminated the moment we squeeze the lever? for safety reasons....no issues with turn signals lighting up.

I run an aftermarket m/c with a built in switch and have no loose connections there or within my brake light housing. I also do not have any air in my lines or a spongy feeling lever.

Can anyone offer insight? obviously, safety is important. a pic of my master cylinder can be seen within this thread:

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/59-tires-wheels-brakes/106617-450-brake-pads-tips.html

Thanks!
 

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The front brake and rear brake have independent switches, either both switches need adjusting or you might check connections to brake light. From the ebay link you posted in another thread the after market master cylinder you have does not use a pressure switch like the original system so your hydraulics are irrelevant, it is lever movement that actuates the switch, same as the rear brake pedal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the quick reply. It might be possible it always functioned that way...hmm..do you recommend re-bleeding my front brake? perhaps a slight blockage is preventing this? if not, then how does a switch get adjusted? thanks again
 

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What he was explaining was that the brake fluid has nothing to do with your brake light switch anymore since you went to an aftermarket master cylinder that included a mechanical switch instead of the fluid-pressure version that came with the bike originally (if you used a single brake line and eliminated the pressure switch in between the 2 lines like the original was). The fluid switches required a specific level of pressure to activate the brake light switch, but the mechanical switch on your aftermarket master should operate more like the in-perch switches Honda went to on the drum brake bikes when they stopped using the in-cable switches about '70 or '71. So, if your switch on the new master is still coming on late in the braking process, you need to see if there is an adjustment on it to allow it to come on sooner. Check the mounting screw on the switch and see if the switch position can be manipulated a bit to move it a little further away from the lever so the switch comes on a bit sooner, like during the initial 1/2" of lever movement. Take a look at the 3rd picture from the left on this link of the master you bought to see the mounting of the switch

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272081446824?rmvSB=true
 

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post pics of where you connected the brake light wiring.

the rear brake is adjusted here;

 

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The rear brake switch is easily adjustable to come on sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks! just the clarity I needed. Running like 'a raped ape' once again :) but just in time for a procedure I have scheduled which will sideline me for a bit :( my luck? well, I know my ride will be waiting for me when I'm good to go. thanks again!
 

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Wow, that looks pretty open to the environment.
Not really actually. The switch is on the bottom of the master cylinder and is a sealed unit anyhow. The only exposed parts are the 2 prongs where you connect the brake switch wires which once connected should be covered so that's a moot point.
 

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By the way this is how all modern front brake switches come in as now. Nobody uses the inline brake fluid pressure switches anymore.
 

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Those two holes look like easy water ingress.
 

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Those pics look weird on ebay but I assure you there are no open holes (at least on the ones I have). The unit is sealed.

Besides the switch is mounted on the bottom of the MC and with it facing up like this
s-l1600.jpg


So unless water can somehow defy gravity and travel upwards :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ugh, so the original seller replied and told me the switch was non-adjustable? I am not so sure about that. I don't have any loose connections or electrical gremlins...so...For the record, it stops as it should without issue but I am pretty sure the light used to come on sooner when I began applying lever pressure. Could the seller be wrong? Gonna be a bit til I can start riding comfortably/safely again but would like that part addressed before I hop back on. thanks all!
 

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ugh, so the original seller replied and told me the switch was non-adjustable? I am not so sure about that. I don't have any loose connections or electrical gremlins...so...For the record, it stops as it should without issue but I am pretty sure the light used to come on sooner when I began applying lever pressure. Could the seller be wrong? Gonna be a bit til I can start riding comfortably/safely again but would like that part addressed before I hop back on. thanks all!

Just take a look at your MC. I'm pretty sure it uses the same type of brake switch and in which case all you need to do is loosen the holding screw a bit and swivel the switch a bit forward or backward.
 
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