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That's just Honda Bond, not epoxy. Make sure all the fasteners are removed, double check. You will notice at a couple of the corners one half of the crankcase has an exposed flat. I usually start with a one sided razor blade and tap it into the joint line. The cases usually pop apart quite easily. If it sounds like you are hitting something really solid recheck you have all the fasteners out, did I mention being absolutely sure all the fasteners were out.... You can also tap a thin, thin as in very flexible, putty knife. Do not get too aggressive or you will regret it.

Once you get it to start splitting move to another corner and it should come apart easily.

BTW yours looks like original sealant. Use the same type of sealant when you are putting it back together.
 

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See cmsnl for all the crank case fasteners and where the dowels are, usually seen as an enlarged stud/bolt hole and sometime "stepped".

Looks a bit too silver/grey/different from the light tan colored hondabond i have seen........any evidence of a "chain off" in the sprocket area in the past??
 

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If you mean the 2 starter mount bolts on the left end of the starter motor in the picture, no... they're into the upper case. You will, however, have to remove the clutch, oil pump and shift shaft before removing the lower case (in case you haven't already - the clutch is visible in the picture above)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you mean the 2 starter mount bolts on the left end of the starter motor in the picture, no... they're into the upper case. You will, however, have to remove the clutch, oil pump and shift shaft before removing the lower case (in case you haven't already - the clutch is visible in the picture above)
Oh shoot, thank you. Ill get those off.
 

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You don't have to remove that just yet if you are careful, you still have to remove the complete cover on the stator side. If it is truly bent its best to cut the bent part of with a saw and the clean the end and push it through. You will have to find another GOOD one.
 

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You can, however once a shaft is cut and then welded it is never the same. The metal changes, becomes softer or brittle in that area or others depending on how hot it gets. They will break again.

Been there done that with a gimme ATV that some ASS welded thelever to the shaft. (Free is never free atv) We had to cut that lever off to work on the engine, I did find a lever that fit and a shaft that was way too long so I cut part off one and stuck them together. I was forever welding that thing together until I got the right one, weld would hold fine it would break elsewhere in the shaft. We even tried heat treating it. I

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OK, not my experience but what do i know, my welds all seem to hold ok and still do.

You do not have to remove the gear change shaft to strip the engine, it can stay in situ, but must be disconnected from the detent and selector fork cam drum and pins.
 
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