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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replaced my stock tail light with a trailer light from a local trucker store. The bulb gets brighter relative to engine speed. After a quick jaunt around the block, the light is burnt out. I replaced it with the bulb out of the stock tail light (they take the same size), and it works again in the garage. I revved up the engine, and it gets much brighter with engine speed.

Does the stock tail light encorporate any type of circuitry like a zener diode that cuts out excess voltage? Any possible causes, or do you think it could be as simple as a bulb?

-MK
 

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mktsc said:
Replaced my stock tail light with a trailer light from a local trucker store. The bulb gets brighter relative to engine speed. After a quick jaunt around the block, the light is burnt out. I replaced it with the bulb out of the stock tail light (they take the same size), and it works again in the garage. I revved up the engine, and it gets much brighter with engine speed.

Does the stock tail light encorporate any type of circuitry like a zener diode that cuts out excess voltage? Any possible causes, or do you think it could be as simple as a bulb?

-MK
Nothing special about the bulb or the tail light in general.
Given a steady 12 volts, should work normally.
Sounds like you have a compromised battery or bad regulator or something else going on.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The battery is good, it's new as of about 2 weeks ago. The thing that gets me is that the stock tail light works fine.
 

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Sensei
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The "brightening" should be minimal ...The bulb should be able to handle the normal 12 to 13.7V output of the battery/charging system...... Sounds like the REGULATOR is not working properly... Check the connections, could be as simple as a "dirty" ground (green wire) connection....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll check on that regulator, it sounds like it's the culprit. I picked up a Ford regulator just in case this one bit the bullet...

Thanks guys.

-MK
 

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Isn't the "Ford Regulator" mechanical rather than solid state?.....If so, it would be counterproductive to use it as they require too much amperage to operate.... Not a problem in a car, but the limited output of the bike is already marginal....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No it's a later model stolid state regulator. It's cheap, but pretty big and bulky...
 

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I saw a write up somewhere on the net about a guy cutting one of those down/out of its case, to fit it to his bike. It looked good when finished..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I saw the same one, I think it was on DTT's $40 mod thread. I'm still trying to figure out the wiring, although I'm thinking trial and error will eventually yield the correct wiring...
 

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IF you don't short out/burn up the rectifier trying it out..... :( :eek:
On the stock one....
Yellow "reads"and delivers the alt output..... Black is battery Hot (only with key on)taking the charge to the bike/battery... Green is ground... If yellow voltage exceeds 14.2V, the SCR "dumps" the excess out through the ground.....
So, As my "best guess".... I assume Yellow would be to the "field" terminal connection, Black to ignition-on B+ (battery terminal) and green to the ground..... How many wires does this "Ford" component have, and what are they labeled?... A pic might help....
 

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You DO understand that a 750 has a very different charging system...Right?..... It uses an electromagnetically excited alternator that draws power to produce power, has a six diode rectifier, and originally used a mechanical regulator.... A solid state reg on that bike would be an improvement.....
Your system is way simpler...why complicate it?.... If your reg is bad someone here will have a good spare......almost every 12V Honda twin used the identical reg if it had one....160's, 175's, 350's, 360's,and 450's through the 500T.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah you're probably right Steve (as usual). I'll probably just pick up a used one and call it a day. I had this ford regulator laying around for a while and it only cost me something like $7. I thought it would be more reliable.
 

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I replaced my regulator and rectifier with a solid stare typanium unit, cost $40 my rectifier was hosed, but I think I have a decent regulator, pm your address and I'll toss it in the post (its off a 72 cl 450)
 

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ihatespeed said:
I replaced my regulator and rectifier with a solid stare typanium unit, cost $40 my rectifier was hosed, but I think I have a decent regulator, pm your address and I'll toss it in the post (its off a 72 cl 450)
Where did you get the typanium unit? Is there a web site?

I see you're from Marlborough. I used to take some flying lessons at the old airstrip there off of Rt20 and I also consulted to the old McDonald's that was closed just up the street.

Small world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
66Sprint said:
Green is ground... If yellow voltage exceeds 14.2V, the SCR "dumps" the excess out through the ground.....
Steve, what did you mean by "SCR"??

-MK
 

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SCR is a silicon controlled regulator.....Basically sort of a combination of diode and transistor that "Shunts" at a predetermined (trigger) voltage.... In this case, it shunts to ground, disappating the excess voltage...... NOT the best discription, but explanitory......
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Gotcha, thanks! I gave my regulator a closer inspection, and one of the terminals has come off leaving the green wire hanging with nowhere to go.

Sounds like the root cause of my issue no?

-MK
 
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