Honda Twins banner

41 - 52 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
The crank keyway should be a nice slot, while the rotor key should be a nice fit in that slot. If you look up the parts diagrams you should be able to find what it normally looks like.

Pickup coil overheating I'd guess would be melted wires, black soot marks, blued steel (hopefully not). You can always get opinions on here about pictures as well.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,547 Posts
The woodruf key should be a very tight fit in the crankshaft, you literally have to drive it out with a punch. Remove it and check the fit in the rotor groove if you see any signs of wear, it should just slide in. If there's any deformity then replace it. They get deformed if the rotor wasn't torqued properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
The woodruf key should be a very tight fit in the crankshaft, you literally have to drive it out with a punch. Remove it and check the fit in the rotor groove if you see any signs of wear, it should just slide in. If there's any deformity then replace it. They get deformed if the rotor wasn't torqued properly.
All this is in the left side where I checked the timing right? Do I take off the bit there to get to the stator?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,547 Posts
Yes, the rotor has to be removed from the crankshaft. This is what you don't want to see
GEDC2482.JPG GEDC2486.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
So I got my hands on a used CDI. I replaced the one on the bike and it seemed to be working fine. The bike revved up to 5000rpm with no issue. I didn't push it further because I was in my shed. I noticed a little bit of black smoke building in the shed but nothing really alarming. I let the bike idle while I tried to figure out where the smoke was coming from. Suddenly the bike made a large clunk sound and shut off. I gave the start a quick try and it made just a simple click sound but nothing happened. I knew right away the engine seized up. I tried moving the engine manually but it wouldn't budge.

My question now is how do I go about freeing up the seized engine, and what are some tips on diagnosing why the engine seized so that I can prevent it from happening again?

Also should I start this in a knew thread now or should I just leave it here?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
How did you try and move the engine manually?
I would say remove the flywheel cover and try and turn the crankshaft, but maybe try pulling the plugs first and see if there's anything suspicious looking.
Does it have oil in it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
Sheds and long engine runs, carbon monoxide and cooling fans for the engine, extraction fans for you, but your still alive unlike the bike., lesson learnt, did the oil light come on ( flashing perhaps ) when very hot and any chuffing of smoke from the c/case breather??

Plugs out, f/wheel cover off and try turning the engine over via the flywheel bolt, ccwise is normal direction of rotation. good luck.

Also cam cover off and check cam chain, balance chain slotted "bung" out and see chain, difficult, but it can be seen, look thru the gap between the main bearing ladder casting and the front of the c/case inner wall.

ps 12v computer fans.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
I would say remove the flywheel cover and try and turn the crankshaft, but maybe try pulling the plugs first and see if there's anything suspicious looking.
I removed the plugs but didn't see anything glaring that would make me think that was an issue, but unless it was completely obvious I probably wouldn't see it.

I tried moving the winging with the flywheel bolt. Didn't budge at all.



Sheds and long engine runs, carbon monoxide and cooling fans for the engine, extraction fans for you, but your still alive unlike the bike., lesson learnt,
Shed is a bit misleading. It's a small barn-ish like building with a double wide door and window.


did the oil light come on ( flashing perhaps ) when very hot and any chuffing of smoke from the c/case breather??
The oil light came on like it always done when the bike is on but not running. I didn't see where specifically the smoke was coming from. I was trying to figure that out when it seized.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,547 Posts
The most common failure is the left rod bearing, last in line to get oil and if the engine was runs any length of time on very low oil it will die. PO may have done that to you.
Pop the left cover off and remove the plugs, turn the engine over some if possible. The ones I've encountered will turn fairly well until it suddenly stops, turn in reverse and it'll stop again after 1/2 turn or so.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,547 Posts
In that case it drop the engine, pop the valve cover to inspect the cam chain and put it back on. pop the stator, clutch and shift rod out and flip the engine upside down to remove the lower case half to inspect.
 
41 - 52 of 52 Posts
Top