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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the forum and look forward to reading and learning!

I have a 1982 Honda CM450A...nice for inner city driving with the automatic.

The bike is new to me and everything was working fine until the other day when the lights went out. I have no gauge lights, no signals, no headlight, no tail lights, no starter, no horn. However, the bike runs just fine and can be kick started with the key in the ON position. I checked the battery and get 12.8V. I checked the positive battery terminal to chassis ground and get 12.8V. All fuses were checked for continuity and are good. The main fuse gets a constant 12.8V. But, when the key is in the ON position, none of the lights work and the headlight and tail light fuse have no power.

Any ideas?

Thanks for any help!!
 

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I had a similar problem and it was caused by a broken cut-out switch integrated into my starter button. It's designed to cut out the headlight when you push the starter button. It was broken so no headlight or starter.

I don't remember the other stuff not working though (just the headlight and starter).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's logical to have the headlight cutout with the starter because it probably draws the most power and cutting it out would allow the starter to use that extra energy.

But none of the lights (including starter) work at all. So I'm still at a loss here.
 

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Sensei
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The situation you discribe is EXACTLY what happens when the starter/lights-off switch goes bad.....
I don't have the schematic handy, but I believe that switch controls all the lighting power, the wire coming out of it goes to the fuse box for the lights..... No power at fuse also indicates this switch is bad........... :eek:
 

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I can hear the frustration in Steve's voice...... Why do you ask for help and then ignore it?.... I half expect Steve to quietly vanish like Bill did if this keeps up! :( D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wasn't ignoring the help. The way I read the response was that only the headlight power was cut when the starter switch was engaged. And the problem on my bike is that ALL the lights cutout...not just the headlight.

"I don't remember the other stuff not working though (just the headlight and starter)."

I greatly appreciate any help and insight and apologize if my response was taken as though I didn't. I wouldn't want to be the cause of knowledge leaving any forum.

I will look into the starter switch as the potential root cause of the problem.

Thanks for your help.
 

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Sensei
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Another possibly important point....You bike will/may run as long as the ignition module "kill" wire is NOT grounded by either the "kill switch" or the ignition switch.... I'll double check this on the schematic as soon as I locate it, so until then it's heresay.....
 

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My '82 Honda FT500 Ascot (same year, same OEM) also has a headlight cut-out switch for starting. But, it ONLY cuts out the headlight during starting. It does NOT cut out the dash lights nor tail lights during starting. I have modified it to do so (a simple wire swap) to give that 500cc thumper all the starting current it can get, but it did not come from the factory that way.

Still, I'm thinking that that's where your problem is, as the others have mentioned.

Good luck with it.

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
UPDATE:

I was riding the bike yesterday...had to kick start it...and went on my way to drop it off to get the valves adjusted and the electrical bug looked at. At the beginning of the ride the bike had absolutely no lights. During the ride the lights started flickering on in a semi-power state. They were getting half power and were a little dim. Any additional power draw such as brake light relay activation or turn signal would dim them even more. As I arrived at my destination and was parking, all at once all the lights had full power! Of course it happens right when I need to show the mechanic the electrical problem. Hopefully the problem will show up during his inspection of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Root cause found!!

After tracing wires, the culprit has been found! The red wire solder connection on the ignition switch is broken. I tried resoldering it and it held for a few miles then broke loose again. I'm just going to get a replacement ignition switch and be done with it. I'll deal with the 2 different keys knowing that it won't break loose while riding at night.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Anyone know where I can get an OEM replacement? I know it's a little more expensive but I like OEM parts.

Thanks!
 

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I would try your local Honda Dealer in your town first. It may be a part that is still available. If not Western Hills Honda would probably have it in their NOS stock. They are in Cincinnati Ohio.
www.westernhillshondayamaha.com
Don
 

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Sensei
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Rob.... Yes, the Red wire is the positive power lead from the battery....That also would account for all your discribed problems.....Interesting, and I was reminded that we're never too old to learn something new (or at least see something from a new perspective).... :D Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Culprit

Here is a photo of the bad ignition. I tried to solder the wire and it held for about 2 miles then broke loose again. So I just went with a new ignition and filled it with bathroom/kitchen clear caulk to keep out the elements and to help hold the solder joints in place. The original ignition lasted almost 30 years and I doubt the new ignition will need to withstand a 30 year service life. But it's peace of mind for me.
 

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I have been combing through forums looking for an answer to my problem. And Blamo! I think i've found it. After reading the posts on this problem and seeing the fix-I went and checked my ignition switch and it looks exactly the same as the before picture. I am pumped! I haven't soldered it yet-I just found this 10 minutes ago-I will give an update when I do.
Many thanks!
 
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