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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I'm working on a 1973 cb175k7, I had bought a brand new battery for it, charged it up, tossed it on the bike in hope to get my starter motor turning which to my satisfaction it did, the problem I'm stuck on is that I had to pull the engine and reseal the lower crankcase to stop a leak and replace a few bad bolts, when reassembling the bike I've got it all back together minus the gas tank (its being treated and sealed tomorrow) I was gonna try and fire it up with a little a gas down the carbs to see if she had any life.. Well I discovered that my battery had lost juice in the time it took me to get the engine sealed and back on and having lent my trickle charger yo a friend a went to autozone to have them get it back up to 12v, well I got it back autozone and got it hooked up and now she won't turn at all where as before she did. the relay clicks and the wires between them heat up! Not good so I pulled my multimeter out to test the charge on the battery and it read 10.3v and steadily dropped while I had the multimeter hooked up, the wires to the multimeter also got very hot very quick. Did autozone maybe try to fast charge my battery and ruin it? I'm pretty new to electrical issues so any advice qould bw helpful. Here's the battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have it on a trickle charger now, I called them and they assured me they put it on a trickle charger, in the mean time I have tried using another 12v battery I have at the house, I'm still getting the click with the starter relay and no power to the starter motor, is it possible to hook up the starter relay wrong? There was no specific +/- terminal just two identical ones. Here's a licture of the starter relay and the ground for the negative to the frame.
 

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" the relay clicks and the wires between them heat up! "
The wires shouldn't heat up, is the starter free to turn? Is the cable pinched anywhere, between the starter and the starter relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
*UPDATE*

So I think the starter relay was bad, I have the original still, so I swapped them out and banged on the old one a few times before hooking them up, the old relay you could see which wire ran to each terminal so hooking it up was easy, I pulled out the starter motor and tore it down and cleaned out the inside and scrubbed the contact points on the gear and the brushes. Underneath all of it was pretty gross! The gear was hard to turn so I regreased it and got it moving freely, upon trying to start it I got movement in the starter motor but not enough, I checked the volts and I was at 11.6 so I assume after I swap out the batteries I will have movement and solved the problem.
 

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You can't start it using the kick starter? The electric starter requires and uses up a lot of voltage and with an already weak battery I doubt you will be able to start it.
 

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Um what? No compression? So when you used the kick starter it doesn't turn over the engine at all? As in it's not catching?
You should have fixed that when you had the engine out and the lower crank case open.


You can jump a car battery onto yours and see if that will get enough juice to turn the engine over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I'm just as confused, I'm honestly pretty new to engines and working on them, when I had the engine out and split it was honestly very clean(previous owner said he rebuilt it) the shaft that has the kickstart gear that slides when turned was misaligned and I realigned it and made sure it was catching smoothly, I will take pictures and try to get a video up, I remember pulling my starter clutch off and inspectering the parts inside and putting back on, if I move that then I have good compression so maybe I misaligned the gears when I was tinkering around in the engine, or maybe I just really did mess up the kickstart gear when I was in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well im going to look at this as a learning experience, I will start pulling the bike apart this weekend and run through the problems, goos thing I have plenty of time ,patience, and ultra grey! I will post pictures of the process and probably continue to ask for advice I have a manual but I'm not sure everthing is there so I will refernce the ones on here, thank you again for the speedy replies:)
 

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Before you take it all apart, back off the clutch adjustment on the left side cover, if it's too tight the clutch will be partially released and the kick starter won't work. Next pull the right side cover and make sure the clutch components are assembled in the right order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay well I just disengaged the clutch cable, the kickstarter catches and gets stuck now:/ if I gently rock it back and forth it will go all the way down but otherwise it catches every 10 to 20 degrees, I will get that left crankcase cover off and check the clutch tonight or tomorrow, I noticed that the clutch cable was very tight and despite my efforts to loosen it up it woupd not loosen any so I imagine that I put the last piece of the clutch before the cover and springs I put on backwards, also is it possible to overtighten the bolts holding those springs down?
 

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Did you put a gasket under the clutch cover or just some liquid gasket material? Without a gasket the kick starter shaft will bind up, loosen the cover screws and see if it loosens up. The clutch spring bolts are supposed to be tightened all the way down, leave them loose and they will back out and hit the case. Loosen the 6mm bolt on the left side cover and turn the adjuster(big slot) counterclockwise to loosen the clutch adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Okay when you say clutch cover, you mean the plate that covers the stator and starter clutch? I have a gasket on that, the left and right crankcase covers are sealed with permatex. I adjusted the clutch and got smoother action from it and it is not engaged. Kickstart is still the same though so better resistance but still catches and wont move down all the way without gently rocking it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay. well yes, that I used permatex on, so basically the permatex has caused a seal that is to wide and causing the kickstarter to catch.
 

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No, the cover is pinching the shaft, side ways, because it no longer has the thickness of the gasket present to hold the cover out that 30-40 thousandths of an inch. Loosen the screws on the cover a few turns each and you will know if that is the case(yes, oil will run out, put a pan under there).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I dont think I will be able to get to it until this weekend, thank you again for guiding me through this btw guys.
 

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and while you're there, clean off all the Permatex from the gasket surfaces and check the oil passages from the oil filter outlet to the top end for overflow of sealer... you don't want that getting into the tiny oil passages and galleries in these engines, it's certain death for the top end components that rely on oil flow to survive and will shred quickly if the flow gets clogged in any way. Use a gasket on both crankcase covers and if you feel you must use sealer, use it very sparingly - a thin film and not to excess
 
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