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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
id like to see some pictures any of you have of any custom battery boxes and any relocations. I am trying to remount a slightly larger battery and i am having a hell of a time building and mounting a custom box. anyone here who has done anykind of custom jobs and have some pics of the box mount i'd love to see them so i can rob some good ideas from you folks. i've toyed with mounting it to the swing arm in front of the tire. i'd like to not hang it and i hate having to remove the seat to get to the battery (my springer seat isn't coming off again, i'm serious this time)
thanks
 

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Sensei
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First, One serious question.... What makes you think the already nominal charging system will be able to keep a larger (presumably greater amperage) battery charged up?

Now the answer to your question.... It is advantageous to keep the battery either centered (close to the CG) or mounted low...Preferably both..... I like centered on the backbone, as low as will clear the swingarms motion (sprung bike) or simply as low as possible (Rigid bike)... See pix........





Behind the engine and below the swingarm would even be better.............JMHO.....
 

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Have you considered using 2 small batteries? 12v in parallel or 6v in series? 7ah sla are pretty small, you could split the package around the center tube?
 

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Sensei
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Even that would yield a total 14AH battery"pack"..... On a circuit that barely will keep a 12AH battery fully charged..... Two 6N6's (series) would be closer...... I have a feeling he is going for a larger (lawn) tractor battery, as they are available for about $25....Weight, physical size, and charging requirements would ALL be problematic IF that's what he's thinking of doing.....
 

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Im toying with the idea of re winding my stator and possibly increasing the flux field by making a new rotor out of rare earth magnets. Any one ever drill a hole in them? (magnets) It looks like the stock rotor is made out of several pieces riveted together.. may be pretty easy to dismantle the rotor and replace the magnets with rare earths, they seem to be widely available in many shapes and sizes.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it:

more windings = more voltage (good?)

more windings = more resistance (bad)

more resistance = less current (bad)

larger gauge windings = less resistance (good)

less resistance = more current (good)

more poles both winding and magnets in stator = higher frequency (Only good if the rectifier diodes react fast enough to keep up)

I would assume:

greater magnetic field would = more current and voltage induced

If you could get enough voltage from two windings you should be able to rewind the stator for a delta style
3 phase alternator couple that with a 3 phase regulator rectifier you should get significantly more output.

the winding would be coils 1 and 4, 2 and 5, and 3 and 6 with a tap between each set.

any one have a shot rotor and or stator from a 450 they
would like to donate to the experiment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the new battery is just a tad too big for the stock (ugly) box. i'm relocating more for preference. im still using a motorcycle battery its housing is just a tad biiger than the one it had. and if i can, i would much rather put it on the swingarm than hang it under the seat like it was. just trying to get ideas rteally
 

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You could likely solder up your own pack.. I'm not sure what batteries you'd need to use but my best guess would be NICAD cells. Maybe someone here has more input on that? The advantage would be, you could make the pack to any size or shape you needed..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Sensei
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IF your battery is "slightly" physically larger than the correct 12V, 12AH battery, is it also a higher amperage rating? (YB14LA2?)... The nominal charging system on a 350 will just barely keep the stock battery fully charged.... :(
We are back to the "What is the ampere-hour rating of this bigger battery?" question...
 

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You do not want to mess with those lithium ion cells. It takes a special charger to even charge them properly from what I've gathered.. A "smart" charger of some type..

Stay far far away from lithium polymer batteries as well. When they explode from being improperly charged they can burn hot enough to melt through a cars floorboard. Ask any modern day electric RC enthusiast..

I'd venture to guess that you'd need to stay with either NICAD or NIMH batteries. Probably NICAD. Some enduro kits for on/off road bikes have a NICAD pack soldered into the harness to meet state requirements for parking lights being able to stay on for so many minutes if the bikes engine fails..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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lithium iron (LiFepo4) cells are different than the lithium ion and the lithium polymer, they are stable and do not suffer from the hazards of the other two lithium types. they also do not suffer from over discharge damage as badly as the li ion and while over charging can damage them easily the ramifications are not hazardous.
there is also no sulfation issues as with lead acid, memory as with nicad and no self discharge to speak of, (major issue with nimh)

See Speedcell http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myPro ... collection

They are pricey, but I believe you can make your own pack out of loose or salvaged a123 m1 cells for significantly less

Be pretty neat to have a robust battery pack weighing less than a pound and roughly the size of a Costanza wallet, even if its twice as much as a good stock battery. if it lasts more than a couple years and does not require a battery tender it may be competitive price wise as well..
 
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