[xtremek]

I'm a typical +60 yr old fart (talk about stale and disgusting). I've been tinkering since I was a kid. Current projects include the rattle can refurbishment of am '82 GMC c30 dump truck,

the building of a 40x60x16 She Shed for my wife,

and the refurb of a '71 CL350. A college friend wanted to clean out his shed and gave me his CL. How could I turn down a free motorcycle?

It had been put away properly about 10 years earlier. I don't know anything about these. Anyway, with your help I was able to take the seat off. I got a weak and erratic spark, so I put on new coils, and condensor.

After that, I was able to get it to fire on ether. I can't get the side cover off, so I'm not replacing points, yet. And when I have a few minutes, I clean the chrome as best as I can, since this is just a refurb.

 

[Yendor]

That looks like a beautiful survivor of the bike and in very good condition.
If as you say it was PROPERLY Put Away then your really in luck.
Most are just parked and forgotten.

Do you have a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual)?
Without it you likely have very little success in getting this bike operational.
There are Links to download PDF versions on this site.

It will need a FULLY charged Battery, these are Battery Excited Ignitions.
The Charging system does NOT put out anywhere near the required Voltage/Current required for Spark.
It doesn't even break even at an idle, actual charging doesn't start until approx 3K RPM.

The Points are behind the Left Side OVAL Shaped Cover just above the Spark Plug.
I would take some 600 Wet/Dry paper to the contacts (both sides) then clean with spray contact cleaner or a Cloth wet with Acetone or Denature Alcohol.

One other thing - Get a Set of JIS Drivers (Japan Industrial Standard). - What "LOOKS" like Phillips are not and will often just strip out it you use a Phillips.
JIS Drivers have a very different angle to the Tips.

 

[xtremek]

That looks like a beautiful survivor of the bike and in very good condition.
If as you say it was PROPERLY Put Away then your really in luck.
Most are just parked and forgotten.

The carbs have a little varnish in them, but it hadn't harden fully and it wasn't much. I'm cleaning them with a spray can cleaner. Keeping my fingers crossed, but not holding my breath. Friend has an Ultra sonic cleaner I may have to use.

Do you have a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual)?
Without it you likely have very little success in getting this bike operational.
There are Links to download PDF versions on this site.

I have the Clymer's. I'll see how far that gets me.

It will need a FULLY charged Battery, these are Battery Excited Ignitions.
The Charging system does NOT put out anywhere near the required Voltage/Current required for Spark.
It doesn't even break even at an idle, actual charging doesn't start until approx 3K RPM.

For right now, I'm using a marine battery and a set of jumper cables

The Points are behind the Left Side OVAL Shaped Cover just above the Spark Plug.
I would take some 600 Wet/Dry paper to the contacts (both sides) then clean with spray contact cleaner or a Cloth wet with Acetone or Denature Alcohol.

Yeah, I've got that cover off, but I can't get the side cover off to check the crank position

One other thing - Get a Set of JIS Drivers (Japan Industrial Standard). - What "LOOKS" like Phillips are not and will often just strip out it you use a Phillips.
JIS Drivers have a very different angle to the Tips.

I didn't know that. I'm guessing that's why I can't get that cover off. Stripped one screw/bolt. Time to get a new tool. That piece of info is priceless. Thank you for that alone.

 

[xtremek]

Thanks again Yendor, for your help.

 

[Yendor]

Clymer's manuals have been found to have a lot of errors - Download a Factory PDF version.
Here is a Link to it on the Common Motor Collective.com

Honda CL350 SL350 CB350 Factory Service Manual Searchable.pdf

drive.google.com

A Hand Impact Driver is a Blessing on many of these bolts.
Also I usually Spray DAILY with PB Blaster or other Penetrating Oil and let sit over a few days before going after stuck bolts.
Patience and lots of it will get you thru.

Ultra-Sonic cleaners are great.
BUT... There are FELT Seals that are greased on both ends of the Throttle Shafts.
If the Carb Bodies are just dunked the seals will be washed clean of the grease and you will need to remove them to re-oil (with 90 W gear lube or light grease) to make them seal again.
They are one of the GOTHA's in building these carbs. They will create a vacuum leak behind the throttle plates an cause lean condition that is really hard to find.

Getting to them is a bit of a Pita as the Choke Plates and Throttle Plates have to come out.
This is a place where the JIS Drivers are a MUST as the Screws are small and very easy to strip out the heads.

They were Staked at the factory to prevent them from coming out and getting swallowed thru the intakes.
Work them back and forth, then when re-installing use LOCKTITE.
Note: The Throttle plates are Beveled and MUST go back in correctly or they won't seat.

I could go on about rebuilding these carbs but...
There are some STICKY Posts at the top of the topics in all of the different sections.
The Carb Section has one on re-building these carbs it is a good reference.

Take Pictures as you go for reference on how to put things back

 

[xtremek]

When I pulled the carbs off, all the fuel lines snapped. Should I try to save them? I know, lame Dad joke. Anyway, here’s the inside of the first carb. The second carb was fairly clean. Threw a petcock, carb cleaner, and carb kits at them, and it fired right up. Ran it just long enough to make sure it wasn't a fluke, less than a minute. Time for a battery, an oil change, and more chrome cleaning.

 

[xtremek]

I put a battery in it and it fired up and ran pretty good, so I decided to take it for a short ride. Very short, about 3 miles, since it was 40*F. The bike had just one mirror on the right side, that looks like it came off of an 80's cruiser. Having only one mirror made me very uncomfortable, so I got two mirrors that looked more period correct. Another item that needed to be corrected was a massive exhaust leak on the lower muffler, the gasket was completely missing.

Still have a bit to do before the riding season gets here. Put the points in, replace the front brake cable, tires, and polish more chrome.

Question, is it possible that the brown paint is a stock color? The tank is definitely a repaint, but I'm not sure about the headlight bucket, or fork covers. If it's not a stock color, is there anyway to find out what the original color was, or what colors were available back then?