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I'm still amazed at all the variation in parts that I see at this place, especially with non-US models thrown in the mix.

I've never seen what you're showing, sorry.......
 

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are the housings the same length/depth? seems odd that the bars would be different lengths without extending the housing....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
danWI said:
are the housings the same length/depth? seems odd that the bars would be different lengths without extending the housing....
Yes, the housings seems to be identical.
The most logical would be to stick with the original longer bar that was on my bike but I cant help but wonder if that might be the reason for my tensioner being so worn.
 

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well, that woudl make sense... tho i'm sure i ahve other things to concentrate on whilst riding! :lol:
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
66Sprint said:
some stuck out so you could see them adjust
Yes, I seem to remember this being discussed one time. Maybe on the old twins site..? There was actually a hole on the backside (rear) of the tensioner on some models..

GB :mrgreen:
I think all 5-speed 450's have that hole.
 

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Ronny, here are my thoughts......
1. I have never seen an adjuster used long enough to need to go all the way in.
2. If your adjuster caused the excess wear, it would be due to the spring strength, as the range is limited by the camchain itself.. (the old spring looks "stiffer", and the plunger can only go in until the chains tension stops it against the spring pressure.)
3. Perhaps the "extra" length was to pull on to "reset" so it would "snap-in" and force the chain tension, later models might have been altered when this was found to be unnecessary.... (Just a GUESS, I don't really know).....
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
66Sprint said:
Ronny, here are my thoughts......
1. I have never seen an adjuster used long enough to need to go all the way in.
2. If your adjuster caused the excess wear, it would be due to the spring strength, as the range is limited by the camchain itself.. (the old spring looks "stiffer", and the plunger can only go in until the chains tension stops it against the spring pressure.)
3. Perhaps the "extra" length was to pull on to "reset" so it would "snap-in" and force the chain tension, later models might have been altered when this was found to be unnecessary.... (Just a GUESS, I don't really know).....
Steve
If I understand correctly the locking bolt goes into the groove (there seems to be a sloping groove on the longer bar) on the push bar and the grooves are in the same position on the two bars so I don't think the longer one will stick out at the back. I agree Steve now when you mention it that the old spring looks slightly beefier.
My fear is that the longer bar is putting to much tension on the cam chain already in it's innermost position.

Think i'll have to use finger top feeling on this one. I will try to install the longer bar in it's innsermost position and mesure how far it is in the hole on the back of the housing. Then when I release the locking bolt I will take a new mesure. If the bar has sunk in then everything is ok. If not I will try the shorter bar.

Hmm... don't know if my rambling make any sense to you guys.
 

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Hi Steve
I replaced the cam chain on the CB450 that I rode in the seventies when the bolt wanted to tighten on the end of the push bar out side of the area that is cut for the the bolt to tighten against.
"I have never seen an adjuster used long enough to need to go all the way in."
TomC in Ohio
 

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I do believe that happened, (not saying it couldn't, just not in my experiences) but I probably would have replaced the cam-chain, and the adjuster (wheel) well before that point.....I tend to be a "preventive maintenance" type....Some of my bikes have run three sets of new STANDARD size rings before boring to 1st over......However, as in your case, and being a Honda, I have no doubt that it is possible.....They are designed to be "bulletproof"..... :D
 

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Hi Steve
Bulletproof is the word! I shifted at 10,000 rpm and picked up the front wheel going into second all the time.
I put a new set of standard rings at the same time a I replaced the cam chain. When I could no longer adjust the cam chain seemed like a good time to replace it to me. I would not be surprised if Honda engineered the length of the flat on the push bar so that when the end of the adjustment arrived at the same time as the cam chain was at it's wear limit. I checked the ring gap on the old rings and they were at the the end of the service limit.
This was a bike that I bought cheep with a stuck engine. I put oil in the cylinders and let it sit overnight. Then I put a wrench on the alternator bolt and rocked it back and forth a few time and it freed up. Then I rode it hard for many miles. It was not not a happy bike unless I was on it.
TomC in Ohio
66Sprint said:
I do believe that happened, (not saying it couldn't, just not in my experiences) but I probably would have replaced the cam-chain, and the adjuster (wheel) well before that point.....I tend to be a "preventive maintenance" type....Some of my bikes have run three sets of new STANDARD size rings before boring to 1st over......However, as in your case, and being a Honda, I have no doubt that it is possible.....They are designed to be "bulletproof"..... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good input from you Steve that the old spring looks stiffer. When mesuring them by building a book bridge over a letter weighing scale the old one is between 60 to 80% stronger than the new depending on how far i compress them.
That is in my eyes a big difference.

[attachment=1:25t1ox88]SSA50669-1024.jpg[/attachment:25t1ox88]

[attachment=0:25t1ox88]SSA50670-1024.jpg[/attachment:25t1ox88]
 

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Ronnie, Honda has been known to make subtle improvements the longer a design is used.....At least this was true "back in the day".... some of the changes were good, some (like the auto-chain oiler) were not.....I believe you will find LESS difference in the spring pressures IF you adjust for the difference in "free-lengths", (compress each spring only 20mm from slack) but the earlier example is visably heavier gauge wire..... I would opt for the latest supercede example you have as it is likely the most "refined" version, and would probably be best matched to the newer camchain (for instance)....... JMHO.... Steve
 
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