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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got these switches for very cheapppp.....trying to figure out how to wire these gsxr handlebar switches to the bike...

anyone have any advice or tips since the gsxr switches have more wires then the stock ones??

thanks
-Al
 

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Sensei
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Get both schematics and compare FUNCTION.... The Blue GSXR wire may do the same task as the black/white Honda wire...If you don't feel up to it, e-mail me the/both bike's schematics......I'll be glad to translate....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey 66... i found a schematic for the gsxr switches... just a little confused on how this is supposed to work...according to the schematic the kill switch wires are o/b and o/w which would ofcourse hook up to my bike as b/w and black wires now the starter button from what im reading is the y/g would hook up to my red/yellow now im wondering what i do with the other wires coming from the starter button on the gsxr...theres 2 other wires according to the schematic the o/r and y/w...do i just ground those?

pic of gsxr schematic for reference

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/1520 ... wiring.jpg
 

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It appears that the switch unit is wired like the 500T Hondas..... The starter switch turns off the headlight when you depress the button to start it.......So, you'll also need to change the wiring on the solenoid switch a bit..... I'll detail this in the next post.... DO NOT GROUND THOSE WIRES!!!!!!
 

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First, some questions..........

I am going on the assumption that you intend to/are using both sides/units of the GSXR switches....Correct?
Your FIRST problem will be the Honda throttle cable.... Will it fit the GSXR housing or is the throttle separate?... IF NOT, what are you going to use?.......
 

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Ok then.....I'll post two lists of wire to wire connections, one for the right-hand unit, one for the left....
First though, you'll have to make one alteration to the existing Honda wiring at the solenoid... You need to unplug the black solenoid wire from the main harness, tape off the main harness side (as it will remain/be "hot" when the key is on), and ground the solenoid side black wire.... The yellow/red wire stays connected through the harness to the switch unit.... This is because the replacement (GSXR) start switch will now provide power instead of "grounding" as the original Honda switch did.....

I'll edit in the right-side wiring connection list here soon....
 

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NO!...You'll short out the battery!.....


Right side switch unit..........
GSXR wire color:...connect to.... Honda harness wire color.........(Notes)
"Kill Switch"
O/W ......................................MUST connect to (Honda) Black (power with key on)
O/B........................................Black/white stripe (power to coils)

"Lighting interrupter/Start"
O/R........................................To Black (incoming power, can be the same black as the kill switch)
W/Y ....................To GSXR left switches, W/Y wire (carries power over to hi/low switch)
Y/G ........................................To Yellow/Red stripe (solenoid wire...If you've grounded the other small solenoid wire {black})

"front brake switch"
B/R ............................... (Honda) Yellow/green (brakelight)
B/BL............................... Black (power)

This completes the right side wiring......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so to reiterate for the starter button

you want me to take the black wire coming from the starter solenoid and ground that....the other part just leave hanging and tape it off
 

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Yes.....
... With the "stock" wiring set-up, the solenoids coil had B+ power feeding to it all the time (when the key is on)....Of course, nothing happens until you complete the circuit by grounding out the "other" end by pushing the button....(connecting it to the B- side)
... Now, with the "new" wiring, we'll have the ground side (B-) always connected, and pushing the button will connect the "other" end (wire) to the "hot" power feed, (B+), similarly completing the circuit....
This change is necessitated because the "new" switch connects to the "hot" side rather than grounding as the "old" switch did............
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
66Sprint said:
Yes.....
... With the "stock" wiring set-up, the solenoids coil had B+ power feeding to it all the time (when the key is on)....Of course, nothing happens until you complete the circuit by grounding out the "other" end by pushing the button....(connecting it to the B- side)
... Now, with the "new" wiring, we'll have the ground side (B-) always connected, and pushing the button will connect the "other" end (wire) to the "hot" power feed, (B+), similarly completing the circuit....
This change is necessitated because the "new" switch connects to the "hot" side rather than grounding as the "old" switch did............

i see what your saying...ill try it out tomorrow and let you know

i really appreciate your help 66sprint!!!

thank you

-Al
 

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For your test, you CAN temporarily hook-up the W/Y wire to the "hot" side of a light (grounding the other side of the lamp)... It should come on when you turn on the key, but go out when you push the start button, (at which time the solenoid should activate....)
This bulb represents the rear running light (taillight filament) of the ultimate set-up....
The W/Y wire also will ultimately go to the left side unit where the "dimmer" switch will determine which headlight filament it also feeds (high beam or low)....
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hey steve

hooked up only the y/g and the o/b and o/w and the o/r to what you said...grounded the black coming from the starter solenoid...the starter turns like a charm now ...now the w/y is getting power just like u said and it does ground out when u press the starter switch...

now which wire does that connect to on the left hand controls???

edit:

n/m i see you mean to orange
 

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The W/Y shouldn't "ground out", it should disconnect (the lights or the specified/suggested 'test' light) from power....and it ultimately goes to the W/Y on the left switches.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
hey steve

wrong use of words..but it does disconnect just like you said...

once again i really appreciate it steve...now time to go mess around with the other side
 

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Left side connections will post shortly (tonight) as I am double-checking them now...
Lights:
switch unit O to Y/w from right side switches (you were correct)
" " Y to Headlight Blue (high beam)
" " W to Headlight White (low beam)
Headlight Green MUST be grounded....

Horn:
Switch unit B/Bl to Horn Lt.Green
" " B/W to ground
Horn black to power buss (harness Black)

IF you desire, the clutch safety switch can be incorporated by "un-grounding" the solenoid Black we grounded, and running a new wire to connect it to the B/Y from the left switch unit...........

Turn signals.......
Switch unit LBl to Honda grey
" " Lg to Honda Lt. Blue
" " B to Honda Orange
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
STEVE YOU ARE THE MAN!!!! everything works great...2 more questions

the front brake switch wires do i need to hook those up? my front brake switch goes directly to the rear lights

and also when i turn my blinkers on as in left or right it doesnt blink it just stays on...but when i press the hazard switch both of them do blink and i can hear the relay clicking.... is this a problem with the stock relay?? should i just get the updated relay that people are talking about with using with LED's?
 

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Front brake was covered on page 1, but basicly you just need to hook one wire to power (black), one to the Yellow/green wire to the brakelight.........
Turn signal wiring is correct, apparently, you don't have enough draw and/or power to "heat-up" the flasher module unless all the lamps are lit ( As when hazard on).... I'd try replacing the flasher module, If no change, use higher wattage bulbs....
Could also be the battery is run-down.....Try charging it up first..........
 
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