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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These things are being a big pain in my arse. Any tricks? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Trying to install new seals and they don't want to go over the valve or pop onto the guide. I have lubed the crap out of them but trying to do it by hand in that small space is a pain. I have always had the machine shop do it but didn't have the option this time. Also once they are on what keeps them from popping off the guide?
 

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If I remember correctly, I used a 3/8" drive socket the same size as the seal and just pushed it on with that. If you can not push it over the valve stem with your fingers then you, possibly, might have the wrong size seal. Have you compared the new one to the ones that were removed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have 2 different sets. Both measure the same which is 1 mm smaller than the valve. The diameter of the base is a little different between the 2. It definately does not go on even remotely easily.
 

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I stretch the seal with a hemostat to get it over the lip, that is the only way to get APE seals on guides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I pulled up a pick of the oe seals (I somehow misplaced the stockers) it looks completely different than the ones from Athena and the ones from ape are even smaller. Correct if I'm wrong but aren't the seals held in place by the semi circular ring that gets bolted down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The base O.D. On the athenas is 11 mm and the apes are 10mm. The clip measures about 14mm so if I bolt it down the seals would just pop right up as soon as fired up.
 

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owdskl said:
Correct if I'm wrong but aren't the seals held in place by the semi circular ring that gets bolted down?
Valve guide seals are held in place with a piece of spring steel that is wrapped around the outside of the seal and a lip on the inside of the seal that pops over the guide's lip.
Elasticity and a spring are what keep a valve seal in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If that's the case then they still must be wrong since I have lubed the he'll out of them and even did the sockect trick and can't even get them over the valve. Heck one even broke the top off.
 

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The "socket trick" is for removing the split keepers on a conventionally sprung valve itself, ... On a 450, once you take the torsion bars out, everything FALLS apart.......
AND, the "socket trick" has nothing to do with the seals... Their retainer is held in by a bolt..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does anyone have approximate O.D. Of the base of the or valve seal. The seals I have looks like they might be for a cm450.
 

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66Sprint said:
The "socket trick" is for removing the split keepers on a conventionally sprung valve itself, ... On a 450, once you take the torsion bars out, everything FALLS apart.......
AND, the "socket trick" has nothing to do with the seals... Their retainer is held in by a bolt..........
No, I was recommending using a socket to ensure the valve seal was 'set' properly. I'm familiar with using a sock on conventional springs and keepers as well. The original poster stated that he was having problems getting the seal over the valve stem. I had a problem getting the seal to clip over the head casting as well since my ham handed finers are so big.

Here is a sequence of pictures....

Old seals on the right.



Seal in place over the valve stem.



Socket used to evenly press seal over the head casting while I held the face of the valve against the valve seat.



Seal seated in place.


Retainer in place but fingers are to big to start them by hand.



In place.

 

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OK Mike...Got it!....(and thank goodness...I though he broke a valve top off....) regardless, those seals won't/don't fit.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I loved looking at those pics bomber. I know what you meant about the socket trick too. I figured they were wrong. Just means I'll have to shell out more cash for the right ones. I wanted to have this motor done this weekend so I could strip down the frame but oh well.
 
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