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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 1970 Cl175 I'm going through and the front brake is next on the list (so I can get it back on two wheels again). Factory Service Manual explains how to take the brake apart... but not much more. I would like to know, what's wrong with my brakes? How do I know if its the cable or the shoes? How do I know if my shoes are good or not? How thick should the shoes be, how do I improve them if I'm not replacing them? Etc.

When I bought the bike the brakes were pretty weak - I pushed it up the ramp into my truck and the front brake failed to hold it still when I paused half way up. Since then I've planned on fixing the brake as I did the front end rebuild (needed new forks). Tonight I should be finishing the forks and with that completed I will want to be putting the wheel back on soon. I'd like to get the brakes in top shape before installing it.
 

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Unless you know the brake shoes are new, replace them. With age the glue that holds the lining to the metal will deteriorate, eventually failing.

Inspect everything. Clean everything. Moving parts must function smoothly. An aged cable is another good candidate for replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How do I know if the shoes need replacing, though? How do the shoes even go bad, do they become too smooth? Looking at the photo below, is the rough non metal braking surface the shoe? or the whole assembly? My brake shoes just look like metal, no trace of that sandpaper-like material on the braking surface.

Close-up Font Jaw Illustration
 

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I pushed it up the ramp into my truck and the front brake failed to hold it still when I paused half way up.
Twin leading shoe brakes don't work very well going backwards.

And from the FSM

Text Font Line Number Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Richard. Looked for something like that but couldn't find it in my fsm. So the first table is for inner diameter of the hub? and second is for the thickness of the braking pad on the outside of the metal shoe? I'll have to take a look tonight but if memory serves me right, the shoes are pretty much bare metal. I can see how the mechanism would make them fail in reverse. Hopefully I will be able to stay stopped on hills once this thing is running...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I grabbed the whee last night to take a look. Turns out it wasn't bare metal but the braking surface is ground smooth. Hvaen't had a chance to measure the thickness of the brake pad yet. I did engage the brake by turning the lever on the hub by hand, and I was able to demonstrate the braking power when turning action was applied forward vs. in reverse. Forward it holds, in reverse it can slip.

the surface of the pad:
Auto part Wheel Locking hubs Automotive wheel system Brake

the thickness:
Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Locking hubs Rotor
 

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The adhesive that attaches the the lining to the shoe deteriorates over time. The shoes in your pictures appear to be Honda parts indicating they could be the shoes that came on the bike originally. When the lining "de-laminates" from the shoe it might cause the brake to not work or it may cause the wheel to lock up. Either one could ruin your day.

I don't think we touched on the other stuff you may want to look at, here's a discussion on the subject:

http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/67...n/16105-basic-checklist-new-you-old-bike.html
 
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