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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this looks a little bit worse than the others I have seen on this site.
The leftmost piece was still attached by screw; I just took it off for the picture.
There was also another piece of the rotor that sheared off, which I found in the oil drain plug catch.



Can anyone tell me how to get the alternator rotor off?
I assume it is a reverse thread (ie. righty-loosey) but I want to make sure before I break anything. Also, how do I steady the engine so that it doesnt turn over while im breaking the bolt for the rotor loose? If I put it in gear, the engine will still turn over, with the rear tire moving.
I know that I need to use a special bolt once I get the rotor bolt off. Is that something I can get at the hardware store or cut myself?

Thanks guys!
 

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Sensei
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The removal bolt is R/H threads (right or clockwise to insert... which removes the rotor) 16mm X 1.5 pitch threading....... You can either put the bike in gear and stand on the rear brake, or jam the crank pinion to the clutch hub gears with a hardwood wedge or two stacked pennies.... snug the bolt in and continue to apply torque as you tap the bolt with a hammer... rotor will 'pop' off.....
 

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I have done it with a 3 jaw puller but you have to be careful where you place the push thread otherwise you can damage the crank
 

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PipeAdams said:
The first bolt on the alternator rotor, that you take off first, is reverse threaded though, right?

No, it is a standard thread rotation. In other words "lefty losey, righty tighty".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, i used the two-penny trick and got the bolt for the stator rotor off, however, where the hell can I find a 16mm 1.5 pitch bolt? They only sell them in 2.0 pitch around here.
Anyone know if the axle of the 500t will work? Some other threads said that a 350 axle will do it. Otherwise, can i just rent a 3 prong puller from the auto store.?
 

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My Clymer manual said you can use a rear axle and "grind a few threads off". Not sure why you have to grind a few off. Do you have a tap and die set with a thread gauge? Just measure your axle threads to confirm. Let me know how it turns out.
 

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Sensei
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DO NOT USE A TWO OR THREE JAW PULLER!...it WILL damage the rotor/starter clutch beyond fixing.....The correct puller bolt is available from Motion Pro and others for under $10.... I use a piece of a 350 axle......450/500T axle is too big
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
damn...what a mess.

...so the cb200t axle bolt worked and the rotor popped right off with a little bit of pressure. The starter clutch was in terrible condition. One of the screws that holds it to the rotor was still in there but was sheared in half. Another had ovaled out its threaded hole in the rotor.
What a poor design.
I'm just going to take all this crap out and leave the CB kickstart only.

...will post pics later
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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" The correct puller bolt is available from Motion Pro "

I was going to order 1 from Motion Pro because I figure I'll need it.
Unfortunatly I couldn't find it on their site. :(

Maybe I just don't know exactly where to look ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
nigelrharris03 said:
Been there, done that and have the tee shirt, and dont those small bits bounce well. :lol:
I caught em, but I'm not gonna use the e start anymore anyway.

fairjoeblue said:
" The correct puller bolt is available from Motion Pro "

I was going to order 1 from Motion Pro because I figure I'll need it.
Unfortunatly I couldn't find it on their site. :(

Maybe I just don't know exactly where to look ?
just google rotor bolt puller 16mm x 1.5. A bunch of sites have it. Your local auto store might have it also. I believe that this size puller is used on a lot of different applications.
 

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I just went through this on my 73 450CL. I was able to find the correct bolt at our local Menards. It did take a bit of work though with an air impact to loosen up the rotor. Once inside discovered beat up outer clutch, broken and squashed springs, rollers with divets. Wound up finding a new old stock outer clutch in North Carolina (discontinued part), springs caps and rollers and gaskets all available through Honda. Finally got everything buttoned up yesterday (second attempt) and all is well. Starts again without complaint and no oil leakage.

This is major for this guy as I'm not really a gear-head. Good luck on your quest.

And special thanks to Bill Lane for taking me under wing.

Joe
 
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