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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed a few descriptions on some other threads here about removing the alternator both with specific flywheel puller tool and rear axle threaded into alternator. I just attempted the axle routine, tightened as tight as possible, held alternator with automotive type oil filter wrench and tapped axle with hammer. Nothing. WD40, harder strike, nothing. So, as I understand it the specific puller is just a M16x1.5 bolt that threads in and once in contact with crankshaft begins to pull by way of the threads the alternator off, does this really work?
What works better/what is it thats actually removing the alternator, the hammer thwack or the threaded axle or both? Any suggestions would be great and any theory here would help too.
 

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Sensei
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The bolt (axle, whatever) applies pressure to the end of the crankshaft....The sudden jar of the impact "pops" the rotor off the taper..... Your "bolt" must be long enough to apply that pressure, so often times, I use a sacrificial spacer to make up some distance. (several washers, stacked).....It takes a decent "whack" to break it loose, tapping isn't usually sufficient ....Try while turning the "bolt" in as you strike it. You are "making" an impact driver of sorts.......
 

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Like was said above ya gotta tighten it pretty good and then give it a real good sharp whack and it will "Pop" right off. An impact gun works GREAT BTW!

I put a few nice soft towels down just in case it popped off and I lost a handle on it. Your foot makes a good stop too but..it [email protected] :evil: :D :D
 

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LOL....Easy to hang on to that long axle.... :lol: .... Haven't dropped one yet....
 

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66Sprint said:
LOL....Easy to hang on to that long axle.... :lol: .... Haven't dropped one yet....

Yeah that is the bad part of the one piece screw in "tool" they sell that I have. Its pretty short, (alright you guys.. no laughing here now!! :shock: :lol: ) and when ya whack it, that rotor sometimes has a tendency to pop right off if your not ready to catch it.

I usually put A nice soft pile of rags or towels down just in case.Its better on it than it hitting the hard concrete floor..or your foot too! :lol:



TBP, No, its not just you bud, I think that would be a really bad idea as well.

Brushes, You just dont need that puller when you use the remover tool or the axle , and personally I think Id forget that oil filter wrench idea too.I dont really think it will work all that well anyways personally AND why take the chance of screwing something up by using it or the puller?? Just MHO as well.

Just screw that tool or axle in, and then give her a real good whack (like your mad at it :evil: ) on the end. If once doesnt do it, try and tighten it a little more and whack her again. Itll come pretty soon, its justa tapered shaft and once it starts coming out it usually pops right off.

BOL, Randy
 

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it works perfect actually... the trick is to put a wrench on the nut and tap it with a hammer (unless you have an impact wrench), it will torque the nut without turning the flywheel
 

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I confess to using a 3-finger puller to get my 360 rotor out :?

I had attempted the axle-whack method to no avail, and I assumed that smashing the snot out of the crankshaft would damage the bearings somewhat...but until I turn the key and run her for the first time I'm confident that the rotor was un-harmed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You're right guys I got it, just used the axle and took my time, thanks for the tips. Unfortunately it looks like I've got a broken knock pin, what exactly does this do? And anybody have any ideas as to finding another one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also should those little spring and caps have enough spring in them to hold the rollers in place? And speaking of rollers one of mine is a bit chipped, you guys think it can be filed or should it be replaced?
 

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Knock-pin on the starter clutch?....Pics would help here....and replace the rollers (about $4 each)
 

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Well I'm not sure if the two items in the photo are knock pins or not.
If they are hollow, then they're the spring "caps", not knock pins at all, and there should be three of them.
There should be three of the rollers too - one is shown in the photo, on the right.
The fiche does show a knock pin holding things in alignment, but just one of them, it's 6X17.5mm.
If you can't find all the pieces, I'd start looking in the bottom of the engine for them - I'd hesitate to run the engine, myself....

The clutch looks pretty seriously damaged to me.
The rollers, springs, caps, and flat backing plate are all still available from Honda.
The clutch outer is NLA........but it's the same part on 350's, so that should make things a bit easier.
 

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This is good information since I'll be taking the 450 starter clutch apart soon and haven't seen what one looks like before. The PO said the starter had intermittent problems in the past so I'm assuming it's probably the clutch.

Sorry for the threadjack.
 

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From your pix, the broken pin is indeed the pin that "keys" the clutch onto the back of the rotor.... For it to have worn in the center, the three phillips screws must have been "loose" for a while.... When they finally got loose enough, it sheared..... Get a new pin, and NEW phillips screws when you reassemble on the "new" center, and SLAKE them in place with a centerpunch after tightening.... (Threadlocker won't hurt either)... I would also replace the driven gear just on G.P. as the damage to the clutch half is so bad....
I may have a "spare" unit and gear for you....I'll check....
A loose starter clutch is often the source of the "gargling marbles" sound when the starter is activated..............
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Get a new pin, and NEW phillips screws when you reassemble on the "new" center, and SLAKE them in place with a centerpunch after tightening.... (Threadlocker won't hurt either)... I would also replace the driven gear just on G.P. as the damage to the clutch half is so bad....
I may have a "spare" unit and gear for you....I'll check....

Any ideas for finding this pin? I guess I could find the screws at the hardware store so long as they're not a strange pitch.

Now when you say "new" center what do you mean? And what does SLAKE mean? G.P.? Boy, that's a lot of words I don't know.

If you wouldn't mind checking on your inventory that'd be great.
Thanks for your help and insight.
 

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Brushes said:
Get a new pin, and NEW phillips screws when you reassemble on the "new" center, and SLAKE them in place with a centerpunch after tightening.... (Threadlocker won't hurt either)... I would also replace the driven gear just on G.P. as the damage to the clutch half is so bad....
I may have a "spare" unit and gear for you....I'll check....

Any ideas for finding this pin? I guess I could find the screws at the hardware store so long as they're not a strange pitch.

Now when you say "new" center what do you mean? And what does SLAKE mean? G.P.? Boy, that's a lot of words I don't know.

If you wouldn't mind checking on your inventory that'd be great.
Thanks for your help and insight.
Steve means "stake", I think.
That means you take a punch and put a punch mark in the rim of the screw, extending it into the surrounding material, like they do on wheel bearing retainers. This helps to lock the screw in place.
Like I mention previously the pin is 6x17.5mm.....you may be able to find one at an auto parts or bearing shop.

The screws are just standard 6mmx25 pan heads, available everywhere......
 

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Stake...Slake...tOmAto, tamato.... Guess the terminology varies with dialect...LOL....
Yes, Strike the center punch at the edge of the bolt head and the part simultaneously to create a distortion that "locks" the bolt in place.....
When I said "new" center, I meant new to the bike....Yours is damaged as evidenced by the bulge in the rim......
G.P. is General Principle.....(to avoid the possibility that the part, though not visibly, was damaged slightly, and might soon fail)
And forgive the mention, but aren't the bolts "flat head", rather than "pan head"? (countersunk?)
 
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