Machine shops usually have a hot tank for cleaning parts, $100 or so. Automatic transmission shops have a pressure parts washer unit usually.
I got access to a supersonic parts washer that's big enough for the job, but I want to have the old paint removed from the engine. Started with some wire brush attachments on the angle grinder, applied a little paint stripper on the head as a test, going to take some work but I think I can get it cleaned up. Still looking around to see if there is a place that'll soda blast the painted parts for cheapishMachine shops usually have a hot tank for cleaning parts, $100 or so. Automatic transmission shops have a pressure parts washer unit usually.
You make good points, after your comments I'm back on the fence about it. The old cam chain is in good shape, if I knew what the spec for it was I would measure it to be sure, but that's a cheap replacement anyway. Cam chain is 50 bucks or so, set of rollers from common motor is 180, but I bet I could find them cheaper. I suppose if I don't replace them now they will have to be replaced in a future engine rebuild anyway.How does your cam chain look and feel? Some engines have a chain that look and feel fine. Others I've seen the chain has visual wear and the plates feel worn and sometimes sharp.
As for the rollers, it's my understanding that higher rpm beats the brittle rollers harder. They will start to come apart and you will notice your oil gets very dirty very quickly as pieces start to float around in the oil. Some will get caught in the sump screen and some will travel through the system. You will also risk oil supply failure if your screen gets clogged.
Being said, if you don't mind pulling to replace parts (worth case the whole top end valves, pistons, head, camshaft) and dealing with the sudden and unexpected loss of use, then def proceed.
If it sounds unappealing, remember you're only saving $175 USD by not replacing the chain and tensioner system
As a side note, a lot of 350 owners are out there on old parts. You have the opportunity to freshen yours. I had a similar opportunity and chose not to, but I've also now built 2 other engines that have new chain and tensioners, ready to swap in
LDR you make a good point on the wear of the metal rollers, but as you stated, maintenance on this engine will be much more frequent that on a street bike. Is it perhaps this video you mention? I saw it and was wondering about it as well, interesting design. I don't think it would be terribly difficult to build a homemade roller setup like that.I looked at all the available options on the rollers. I went with the stock rubber versions for 2 reasons. First is the noise factor of metal to metal contact, I'm building a long term rideable street engine and adding the expected whine of the metal rollers isn't what I want. Second and more important is the wear factor. As the maker of the steel rollers mentions he uses chromoly steel so the wear take place on the roller instead of the chain. Steel creates very fine particular debris as it wears that will bypass the pickup screen easily and may be fine enough that at low rpm can bypass the centrifugal oil filter system. It's the consistency of a very fine grinding compound. Rubber tends to create larger fiber debris that will initially lodge in the pickup screen and what makes it to the filter will have enough volume in size to stay in the filter.
Since this is a race engine the noise is of no concern and steel wear issue is minimal since during the regular scheduled teardowns of the engine for freshening will reveal any wear patterns developing and can be corrected. I'm assuming that the engine will be torn down every 3-4 races or at least yearly.
The old KA slipper wasn't a bad idea since there were no wheels involved and the slipper guides were made of Delrin. Too bad they went out of business even with the fitment problems of the design.
An interesting video I watch of a CB350 race engine build had ball bearings used in place of the roller wheels, could see any part numbers on them. They ran a remote oil filter with that engine.