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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

New here but not new to vintage hondas, having owned a few 350's, 400's and 750's in the past. I just picked up a CB350 project that I'm trying to get on the road. The bike came with a set of Emgo vintage handlebar switches and I'm trying to get them hooked up to the original wiring harness. I swapped the handlebar, which doesnt have any provisions for routing the cables through the bar so the original handlebar switches are out, although I'd have preferred to use those.



These are the switches




And I found another forum post where the wiring is broken down here:

EMGO Universal Handlebar Switches (US Version)

RIGHT SWITCH

Red Wire - Energized By Keyed Ignition Switch. Controls power switch (Off, PO, ON).
Blue Wire w/bullet connector - Energized by Keyed Ignition Switch. Pig tailed to Red Wire. Connects to Blue Wire w/socket connector supplies power for starter.
Blue Wire w/socket connector - Energized by Blue Wire w/bullet connector supplies power for starter.
Black Wire - Energizes by Starter Button via the Blue Wire w/socket connector. Connects to starter relay.
Tan Wire - Energized by the Off, PO, On switch. Controls the Off, Run, Off switch. Energizes the Yellow/Red Wire.
Yellow/Red Wire - Energized by the Off, Run, Off, Run switch.

LEFT SWITCH

Blue Wire - Connects to the Blue Wire w/socket connector from the RIGHT SWITCH. Energizes the LEFT SWITCH
Red/Yellow Wire - Low Beam
Red/Black Wire - High Beam
Brown Wire - Pass Switch
Black Wire - Horn Switch
Green Wire - Left Signal
Grey Wire - Right Signal
Orange Wire - Flasher Relay Connection
I believe this is the correct wiring schematic for the bike - its a '72 K4 CB350 - http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Diagrams/CB350_K4.jpg

The left switch is simple enough, I've got those wired although I dont know what to do with the 'Pass Switch' so I've left that unused.

The right switch is where I'm running into some trouble - As it is now, I've connected them like this:


Red Wire - Energized By Keyed Ignition Switch. Controls power switch (Off, PO, ON) - Connected to black wire coming off of the main harness, from ignition switch
Blue Wire w/bullet connector - Energized by Keyed Ignition Switch. Pig tailed to Red Wire. Connects to Blue Wire w/socket connector supplies power for starter. Connected to black wire coming off of the main harness, from ignition switch
Blue Wire w/socket connector - Energized by Blue Wire w/bullet connector supplies power for starter. - Connected to black wire coming off of the main harness, from ignition switch
Black Wire - Energizes by Starter Button via the Blue Wire w/socket connector. Connects to starter relay. - Connected to yellow/red wire off of main harness to starter relay
Tan Wire - Energized by the Off, PO, On switch. Controls the Off, Run, Off switch. Energizes the Yellow/Red Wire. Not sure what to do here
Yellow/Red Wire - Energized by the Off, Run, Off, Run switch. Connected to black/white wire from main harness to ignition coils

Looking at the wiring, there's also a white lead that connects to a yellow/white wire from the Alternator output - where should this go? Are they to provide power direct from alternator to the high beam headlight?

Thanks for any advice :)

-RJ
 

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Hi All,

New here but not new to vintage hondas, having owned a few 350's, 400's and 750's in the past. I just picked up a CB350 project that I'm trying to get on the road. The bike came with a set of Emgo vintage handlebar switches and I'm trying to get them hooked up to the original wiring harness. I swapped the handlebar, which doesnt have any provisions for routing the cables through the bar so the original handlebar switches are out, although I'd have preferred to use those.



These are the switches




And I found another forum post where the wiring is broken down here:

EMGO Universal Handlebar Switches (US Version)



I believe this is the correct wiring schematic for the bike - its a '72 K4 CB350 - http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Diagrams/CB350_K4.jpg

The left switch is simple enough, I've got those wired although I dont know what to do with the 'Pass Switch' so I've left that unused.

The right switch is where I'm running into some trouble - As it is now, I've connected them like this:


Red Wire - Energized By Keyed Ignition Switch. Controls power switch (Off, PO, ON) - Connected to black wire coming off of the main harness, from ignition switch
Blue Wire w/bullet connector - Energized by Keyed Ignition Switch. Pig tailed to Red Wire. Connects to Blue Wire w/socket connector supplies power for starter. Connected to black wire coming off of the main harness, from ignition switch
Blue Wire w/socket connector - Energized by Blue Wire w/bullet connector supplies power for starter. - Connected to black wire coming off of the main harness, from ignition switch
Black Wire - Energizes by Starter Button via the Blue Wire w/socket connector. Connects to starter relay. - Connected to yellow/red wire off of main harness to starter relay
Tan Wire - Energized by the Off, PO, On switch. Controls the Off, Run, Off switch. Energizes the Yellow/Red Wire. Not sure what to do here
Yellow/Red Wire - Energized by the Off, Run, Off, Run switch. Connected to black/white wire from main harness to ignition coils

Looking at the wiring, there's also a white lead that connects to a yellow/white wire from the Alternator output - where should this go? Are they to provide power direct from alternator to the high beam headlight?

Thanks for any advice :)

-RJ
RJ, Those are notorious for early failure. They look great but are sure to give you problems down the road. If I were you, I would drill the handlebars and use your original switches. If not possible, I would use OEM Honda switches available at any dealer. It does not have to be the same year

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
RJ, Those are notorious for early failure. They look great but are sure to give you problems down the road. If I were you, I would drill the handlebars and use your original switches. If not possible, I would use OEM Honda switches available at any dealer. It does not have to be the same year

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Noted... when I rebuilt my old 750 I built a new harness and used CBR switches. I'm not tied to keeping these things, are there any that you know of that easily plug into the stock CB twin harness?
 

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Noted... when I rebuilt my old 750 I built a new harness and used CBR switches. I'm not tied to keeping these things, are there any that you know of that easily plug into the stock CB twin harness?
Sorry, I don't. I build all my harnesses from scratch. It's pretty simple to change out plugs, available at Vintage Connections.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I just went down the ebay rabbit hole... looks like I could pick up a set of newer style switches, like from a CBR, and they're cheap and perusing the wiring diagrams there's a few small differences but they should work as-is.

Here's one example - https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-2000...ash=item2a94b951a4:g:hUkAAOSwe51aAb0p&vxp=mtr

I did find others that are cheaper and some newer. One bonus of using this setup is the front brake wiring is already in the loom.

I think this is what I did on my old 750, although I didnt wire a horn or turn signals and my headlight switch was on the headlight bucket - super simple.

I do like the vintage style switches, though - in looking through ebay there's a few options that route the cables under the bar, but looks like anything with a headlight switch in that vintage style wants the cables routed through the bar - i.e. I can get a right switch without headlight control routing external to the bar, or a left side switch without headlight control routing external to the bar. Anyone know of anything that would work there?

Some examples -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB75...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Left...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Were there any of these CB's that routed both switch harnesses externally?
 

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I just went down the ebay rabbit hole... looks like I could pick up a set of newer style switches, like from a CBR, and they're cheap and perusing the wiring diagrams there's a few small differences but they should work as-is.

Here's one example - https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-2000...ash=item2a94b951a4:g:hUkAAOSwe51aAb0p&vxp=mtr

I did find others that are cheaper and some newer. One bonus of using this setup is the front brake wiring is already in the loom.

I think this is what I did on my old 750, although I didnt wire a horn or turn signals and my headlight switch was on the headlight bucket - super simple.

I do like the vintage style switches, though - in looking through ebay there's a few options that route the cables under the bar, but looks like anything with a headlight switch in that vintage style wants the cables routed through the bar - i.e. I can get a right switch without headlight control routing external to the bar, or a left side switch without headlight control routing external to the bar. Anyone know of anything that would work there?

Some examples -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB75...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Left...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Were there any of these CB's that routed both switch harnesses externally?
I have extra left and right switches like that I'll sell to you, $45 each + $10 shipping.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I sent you a PM. I pulled the original switches out of the bars, and everything appears to be in good shape except for the cracking wiring loom - the original RH switch (off/run, headlights, starter) has 9 wires coming out of it. None of the repro switches I see have more than 7, so I hope I can make that work.
 
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