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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
73 cl350, stock carbs:

I can't believe i can't find this...

Is there a simple diagram showing what screws adjust what?

Im running super rich ... fouling plugs and not needing to choke in the cold.

I found the typical parts diagram but it doesn't actually name the parts.

Which one is the idle screw? Which one is the air mixtute screw ?

Thanks guys... sorry if this is obvious and i missed it.


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I don't have a 350 but #6 looks like an air screw complete with spring, washer and o-ring.
 

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#6 looks like an idle air/fuel mixture screw to me.
 

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of course that diagram you have seems a bit misleading since it shows 2 different screws as #6

The #6 screw I am referring to is the one next to #11 and #16 in the diagram.
 

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If you are running so rich you are fouling plugs your problems are NOT with the idle adjustment.
If ONLY controls the Idle and has NO significant impact on what goes on at cruising speeds.

Look for Air Leaks, Incorrect Float Heights, Incorrect Jet Sizes, Incorrect Timing.

Start with:
A Compression Check
Valve Adjustment: - Do this STONE COLD.
Timing Adjustment: (Dynamic - use a Strobe Timing Light, so you can check the Advance -Both Sides)
A Stuck Advance will cause late ignition and incomplete combustion at cruising speeds.

Then:
Float Height: - The Float spec is an INVERSE relationship.
The Greater the Float Space the LOWER the Fuel level, and vice versa.
This is because the float hangs upside down and moves UP to shut off the flow.
When it hangs down too low it shuts off early.

Also the TIP of the Float Needle is SPRING LOADED.
That is why it MUST be held on an angle when setting the height.
The weight of the float if held totally upside down will compress the spring tip and cause an incorrect setting.

Check the Jet Sizes: - Unless you are the original Owner who knows what was put in there.
Replacement jets in the Full Carb rebuild kits sold are notorious for being incorrectly sized.
OEM Jets are best and there is no good reason to replace OEM jets unless they were damaged and abused.
The Brass parts don't wear. ( do not use anything harder then or smaller than your elbow to clean out the jets.
If you MUST push something thru them to clean them use monofilament fishing line.
It won't scratch the brass, or a single strand of COPPER Wire from a Stranded Lamp Cord wire.
Guitar Strings while tempting are BAD !
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for all of those details... a lot of that is stuff that I've been in the process of doing,

I did want to say that it's been fouling before actually riding all this has been during setting timing valve adjustments all of that stuff at the time of writing of this post the bike hadn't even been on the road yet and once I got it out and rode about 20 miles it just started to seem smooth as butter and I've had no problems since

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If the Plugs were just slightly fouled from over rich idle adjustments while doing your timing settings etc. they will probably self clean while riding eventually.

BUT..., if they get very loaded up they will fail to fire correctly and just keep getting worse.

There is a fine line between what will clean up while running/riding and what should just be replaced.

When in doubt just replace with NEW, Spark Plugs are too cheap to not replace and then drive yourself crazy because you didn't eliminate as an easy fix early.
 
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