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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I am the owner of a 69ish cb350. I am modifying it. So far I have done the following:

- New Tires, the ching shen types
- New Fork oil
- New fork
- New fork seals
- New headlight
- Spray painted fork covers and risers - will get them powder coated or something this winter
- New drag bars in black
- New Horn - which I wound up blowing out by messing up wiring - lol
- Resealed '72 gas tank
- Fresh gunmetal gray paint on gas tank
- New Oregon Motorsports regulator/rectifier
- Uni filters
- Cleaned carbs
- New Hagon shocks
- New chain
- New rear sprocket
- Reupholstered seat

I pulled the fenders off and will only replace the front fender with something modified in black.

I had a mechanic tune the bike as best as possible, which included cleaning the carbs, checking the points, and adjusting the timing. They then basically got it running.

Current issues
My brake lights are an issue. Before the new regulator/rectifier, the brake light fluctuated when I revved the bike. After the regulator/rectifier, the brake light come on when I turn the lights on. NOW, the headlight is out and the brake only comes on when I press the rear brake. I must've blown something.

The bike won't start up right now which is annoying because it use to start but was hesitant when I gave it gas. Now she just wont start up.

Right side carb drain plug screw wont go back in the float bowl. Looks like the hole is threaded or something and the screw won't go back on. I pulled the screw to check to see if the carb was getting fuel since the bike wouldn't start up. This is just annoying.

Anyways, I hope to keep this thread alive with photos and updates on my project. Any help and compliments are always appreciated.

Thx all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thx deacon. They are too big. I will post them to my site and link to them from there after resizing them. Thx for the help though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I like the Hagon s alot. They are the standard spring rate which seems fine for me. However, I have not ridden the bike that much since she's been stalling here and there. I am even impressed with the fac that I didn't mess up the front forks. Lol
 

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Nice bike! Regarding the carb screw: First, I would do a visual inspection of the screw and float bowl threads to see any obvious damage. If no damage, then I would put the screw in place and rotate it backwards until I feel like it has lined up, then righty tighty by hand only until it seats. If that does not work, I would then remove the screw from the second bowl and then use it in the possibly stripped bowl to see if it works easily. Carefully try the screw in the second bowl as you don't want to make the problem worse. If one of the parts needs replaced, post a parts wanted ad here or look for new.

Hope this helps,
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thx Jason, I did inspect the hole when I was trying to put the screw back in. It does look a little threaded though the screw looks fine. I didn't think to use the screw from the other carb. So I will try that, but overall I think I may take the bowl off and see if I can get it rethreaded or find another bowl.

RocCity thx for the compliment. Your bike is really bad ass and an inspiration too. I will be tearing my bike down this winter and building her back up for next season. I really want to polish her up, rewire it, and I would love to throw on a cafe seat.

Thx all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: A modified 69 cb350 in NY - Updated for stripping

So here is my bike in its current state. I decided to brineg her home and begin stripping her.

I will be looking to get the frame powdercoated.

The good news is the wiring on the bike looks new so I am checking it to make sure it is correctly done and will be removing wires I don't need.

Here is an image:



You can see more random pics here
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I pulled my motor and I am thinking about doing a valve inspection/service myself. I wanted to get some opinions on this.

If I do the inspection myself, I will need to buy a dial indicator to measure the valve clearance. Is using this tool difficult? Can people walk me through using it. I tried looking up videos and whatnot, but can't find anything really comprehensive.

The manual says replacing the valves will require a reamer. Is that an expensive tool and is it difficult to get? Is replacing the valve guides difficult?

Thx.
 
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