Honda Twins banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My apologies if this has all been covered before. I did try to search through the posts, but didn't quite find the answers.

1973 CL450

Replacing old "endless" drive chain and rear sprocket - looks like I can "break" old chain by using dremmel to grind off a couple rivet heads and punch them out. Right?

1)New drive chain has clip-on master-link. It started out as a 100-link chain. Should it be cut down to 92 links or 91 links (plus then use the master link for a total of 92).

2)Clutch lever pulls hard. I've lubed the cable, greased the xerkxes(sp) on the left crankcase cover and adjusted the cable across the 3 separate adjusting points (at lever end of cable, at crankcase end of cable and large adjustment on crankcase) - what other things can I do?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,926 Posts
The drive chain can be removed just as you've described. Once you put on the new chain, and slide your rear wheel/axle all the way forward, it'll become apparent how long the chain needs to be. You can then grind off the pins and split the chain, etc.. I hope you didn't buy an o-ring chain. They shouldn't be used on the 450's..

As far as the clutch adjustment goes, hopefully Bill will pop into this thread and give you some pointers.. He knows the system really well when it comes to adjusting it!


GB :mrgreen:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
Have you checked the condition of your clutch lifter rod????
Should pull out easily from the left side.

Sounds like it may be bent - doesn't sound so much like adjustment to me.......
Or maybe it's in backwards???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Bird76Mojo said:
I hope you didn't buy an o-ring chain. They shouldn't be used on the 450's..
GB :mrgreen:
No, no o-ring chain. I did see a lot of "chatter" about the damage than can be caused by them.
Thanks for the info on chain length. I was looking for a number so that I could take the new chain back to the dealership and have them take a link out if needed, but I suppose I could do exactly the same process on the new chain as on the old one for busting the link.

Regards,
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
tbpmusic said:
Have you checked the condition of your clutch lifter rod????
Should pull out easily from the left side.

Sounds like it may be bent - doesn't sound so much like adjustment to me.......
Or maybe it's in backwards???
Hmmm - interesting thought. I haven't had the case off to take a look. In fact, last time I tried to take the case off I was met with stubborn screws. I've been putting Liquid Wrench on them for the last couple days in hopes that they'll come loose (yes, I do have a hand-impact driver), but still afraid of munging up the screws. Any good advice for if/when I crap them up?

Thanks,
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
CL450Joe said:
Hmmm - interesting thought. I haven't had the case off to take a look. In fact, last time I tried to take the case off I was met with stubborn screws. I've been putting Liquid Wrench on them for the last couple days in hopes that they'll come loose (yes, I do have a hand-impact driver), but still afraid of munging up the screws. Any good advice for if/when I crap them up?

Thanks,
Joe
Well, it sort of really sucks on a CL, 'cause you just about have to pull off the exhaust to get that sprocket cover off.
But, that's life as a CL - that sidecover has probably never been off, due to that.........people are very lazy.
Don't forget to replace those copper head/exhaust pipe gaskets, or you'll end up with an exhaust leak.

You just have to get those screws loose as best you can - you may end up with a hammer and chisel if the impact doesn't work.......just get new screws, they're cheap, and not worth worrying about - you have more important things to worry about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
tbpmusic said:
Well, it sort of really sucks on a CL, 'cause you just about have to pull off the exhaust to get that sprocket cover off.
But, that's life as a CL - that sidecover has probably never been off, due to that.........people are very lazy.
Don't forget to replace those copper head/exhaust pipe gaskets, or you'll end up with an exhaust leak.

You just have to get those screws loose as best you can - you may end up with a hammer and chisel if the impact doesn't work.......just get new screws, they're cheap, and not worth worrying about - you have more important things to worry about.
Ah, but those scambler pipes are so pretty. Yep, I know all about the crush gaskets - thanks. And, you're also correct about the screws - they're cheap, just don't want to wind up having to drill them out.

Thanks for all the advise.

Best,
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,926 Posts
There are screw sets available on Ebay and http://www.stainlesscycle.com/catalog/ for your bike. Stainless hardware which is much harder and allen head to reduce slippage/stripping. ;) You might have to send StainlessCycle an email to request the kit because they used to have it available online..?

GB :mrgreen:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Here's an update on my progress so far. Turns out I did have an endless chain on my '72 CL450. Was able to easily take off rear wheel and replace drive sprocket.

I used a small grinding stone in my dremmel knockoff to grind down the rivets on one of the links on the old chain. Came apart nicely. Hooked new (roller) chain to old temporarily with new master link and threaded new chain onto bike - only to discover that Honda shop had left one extra link in the chain (WITH master should be 92 links TOTAL). Back to the dremmel to remove one link from the new chain - easy! New chain installed, correct deflection, rear brake adjusted and all done.

Next will be the left side cover. Have removed shift pedal and foot peg for better access (had already removed the exhaust).

I'll let you guys know what I find about the clutch lifter rod once I get in there.

Thanks for the help and direction on my project.

Regards,
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Update to the update - using a Wagner Paint Stripper gun was able to apply heat (around 5 minutes per) to each screw and with a considerable amount of hammering on a hand impact driver with a #3 phillips bit was able to get the 4 back-left crankcase screws out. Next will be to open her up and see what gives concerning the clutch lifter rod.

Stay tuned for more...

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Okay, so I finally got things buttoned up yesterday. When I got into the clutch lifter assembly I discovered a lot of grease and filth. The clutch lifter rod was not bent at all - took it out and cleaned it up with some 600 wet sand paper. I did notice a flat spot on the #10 ball bearing so put in a new one. Set the actuater lever mechanism at the recommended 90*, greased it up and put everything back together. Forced oil into the cable via the ziplock baggie technique, and set the clutch lever pull per instructions. The pull is better than it was, but not like as good as I thought it should be. I haven't test rode bike yet (it's snowing here today!), but wonder if now I should take the clutch itself apart and clean up everthing. I would be willing to guess that it's never been apart.

I'm kind of new at wrenching - willing to try but a little tentative about my skills.

Any other thoughts or ideas are most appreciated.

Regards,
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
Since you are still not happy, you might look at getting a new cable - they're widely available and not expensive.

I'm a fan of Dri-Slide for cables - has a cool needle type applicator that fits neatly between the cable inner and outer, greatly reducing the mess. Works way better than oil or anything else I've ever tried......

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Bill,

Yeah, probably go with a new cable - good idea. I did put all new cables on the bike when I bought it in 2004, but maybe that's what the problem is. It worked very smooth when not hooked up to lifter mechanism (of course). Also, thanks for the time on the dry-slide. I will definitely invest in this. I figure a tip like this from a "star" wrencher is worth taking a serious note on.

Thanks again for all your help and support.

Regards,
Joe
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top