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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy fellow wrenches (wrenchers? Wrenchees?),
I'm having a little issue as I'm putting my '93 XR250 back together. The first mistake I made was not labeling three wires that leave the alternator and go to the regulator. The manual says they should be different colors but for whatever reason, on my bike, they're all yellow with no indication of which ones are different. Pictures below for more on that.

I tried to use a multimeter to get a read on the different wires but couldn't figure anything out. So I thought the next best thing was to see what the bike does when the cables are in different configurations. What's weird is that the bike starts (it's kick) every time, no matter the configuration of the three wires but also dies when I try to drop it in 1st gear. All 6 combinations, same result each time.

I'm genuinely at a loss here. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


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Sensei
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Should NOT matter which Yellow to which yellow as they are electrically equivalent.....
Stalling upon placing in gear IS likely clutch plates "stuck" together by dried oil......Physically separating, cleaning, re-oiling, and re-installation is the correct method to cure the problem, although many find that simply stepping on the brake while holding the clutch lever in after/while the airborne wheel is spinning in gear will "shear" the dried oil "glue" and free it up......
Feel free to phone to discuss further......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks 66Sprinter & cb400,
It's good know it's not related to the wires. I'll be trying to free up the clutch plates soon and will let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Should NOT matter which Yellow to which yellow as they are electrically equivalent.....
Stalling upon placing in gear IS likely clutch plates "stuck" together by dried oil......Physically separating, cleaning, re-oiling, and re-installation is the correct method to cure the problem, although many find that simply stepping on the brake while holding the clutch lever in after/while the airborne wheel is spinning in gear will "shear" the dried oil "glue" and free it up......
Feel free to phone to discuss further......
Hey fellas,
I've done some testing and I'm unsure if the clutch plates are stuck.

When the bike is running, I pull the clutch in and drop it in first. The bike, of course, dies but then I'm in first. Now that the bike is off I can try to wheel it around but can't because I'm in first. If the clutch plates are stuck together, wouldn't I still be in neutral?
 

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You would just be stalled in first. If you pull the clutch lever while in first and try to move the bike and feel no change that would suggest your clutch is not disengaging and the plates are stuck. Shifting back into neutral should then let you move it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You would just be stalled in first. If you pull the clutch lever while in first and try to move the bike and feel no change that would suggest your clutch is not disengaging and the plates are stuck. Shifting back into neutral should then let you move it.
You're spot on, When I'm in first and the clutch lever is pulled in, the bike still doesn't move. I tried to unstick the clutch plates without tearing the bike down using some methods that other people told me about but they didn't work. Looks like I' cracking the case open ?‍♂
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Should NOT matter which Yellow to which yellow as they are electrically equivalent.....
Stalling upon placing in gear IS likely clutch plates "stuck" together by dried oil......Physically separating, cleaning, re-oiling, and re-installation is the correct method to cure the problem, although many find that simply stepping on the brake while holding the clutch lever in after/while the airborne wheel is spinning in gear will "shear" the dried oil "glue" and free it up......
Feel free to phone to discuss further......
Hey 66Sprint,
This might not be the place to ask but I'm about to crack open the right side case to remove the clutch basket. When I unstick these plates and put the case back on, will I need a new gasket?
 

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Yes.....Once paper gaskets are used, they should be replaced.......
 

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You will probably need a gasket, once they've been on for a while they usually tear and frankly, it's best to use a new one anyway. You won't need to remove the clutch basket, just unbolt the springs and remove the lock nut (you'll need the tool to remove it) and then just take the plates out
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You will probably need a gasket, once they've been on for a while they usually tear and frankly, it's best to use a new one anyway. You won't need to remove the clutch basket, just unbolt the springs and remove the lock nut (you'll need the tool to remove it) and then just take the plates out
ancientdad,
Thanks for the insight I ended up on this same diagram in my repair manual. I just ordered the tool needed to release the clutch lock nut and I have a new gasket waiting. I'm hoping I need don't new plates but I'm keeping this thread alive and will update in a week or so after parts arrive and I crack the crankcase. Hope this gets resolved and helps someone in the future who runs into the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright people,
I replaced the clutch plates, clutch springs, lock nut, and gasket all for the heck of it and I'm still experiencing the issue of the bike dying when put into first gear.

Now there's a chance that I had two problems and I fixed the one but not the other because I CAN roll the bike when the clutch is engaged, so if the clutch plates were stuck then that issue is no longer.

Can anybody please help with why the bike might be dying when I drop it into first?? I feel like it's related to the electrical system but it's hard for me to tell.
 

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because I CAN roll the bike when the clutch is engaged, so if the clutch plates were stuck then that issue is no longer.
Just so we're clear on terminology, if the above in bold were true, your engine would have so little compression that it would never run. What you're referring to is disengaged... you should be able to roll the bike while in gear with the clutch disengaged (although a typical wet clutch does offer more drag even when disengaged than a dry clutch). I'm not at all familiar with the XR250, I was long gone from the Honda shops when it came out - so the question would be, do you have a switch on the sidestand? Check out this thread
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just so we're clear on terminology, if the above in bold were true, your engine would have so little compression that it would never run. What you're referring to is disengaged... you should be able to roll the bike while in gear with the clutch disengaged (although a typical wet clutch does offer more drag even when disengaged than a dry clutch). I'm not at all familiar with the XR250, I was long gone from the Honda shops when it came out - so the question would be, do you have a switch on the sidestand? Check out this thread
My fault on the terminology, I have the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged and the bike will roll. Long story short, the clutch plates don't seem stuck anymore.

I just got done reading that thread and it seems that there might be a kickstand saftey feature in place that I was unaware of. This would be a life saver, I'll keep you updated after I sprint home and see if this fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just so we're clear on terminology, if the above in bold were true, your engine would have so little compression that it would never run. What you're referring to is disengaged... you should be able to roll the bike while in gear with the clutch disengaged (although a typical wet clutch does offer more drag even when disengaged than a dry clutch). I'm not at all familiar with the XR250, I was long gone from the Honda shops when it came out - so the question would be, do you have a switch on the sidestand? Check out this thread
Ancientdad,
You're my hero. That thread briefly touched on the fact that the '93 Honda Xr has a safety feature built into the kickstand. This feature allows you to start the bike with the stand down but if you try to put it in gear while the stand is still down, the bike will **** off. I hadn't reinstalled the kickstand because I was still in a testing phase and was trying to cut unwarranted wrench time out. That small mistake ended up costing me $150 in parts I didn't need and roughly a month and half in time. Oh the things we endure for 2 wheels.

I hope people experiencing this issue find this solution quicker than I did.

I can't thank you or Honda Twins enough. If there is a way to pay for your next beer, let me know. Who knows how much longer I would have wasted on taking apart things that didn't matter.
 

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No worries - that's what we do here brother. The collective knowledge here is the value, and us older guys who were once involved in the industry enjoy solving crazy riddles like this one, despite how simple it ended up being - and honestly, any one of the veterans here could have worked their way to the same answer, but I appreciate it. I had the first year XL250 in high school and all that safety stuff wasn't in force then, but based on the trends toward those devices later on it got me thinking about it. Glad your problem is solved... and honestly, a new clutch never hurt a bike either (better to practice wheelies with!) and I did plenty of them with my 250. Hey, if you're anywhere near Florida or plan a trip down here at some point, there are lots of great rural roads to ride and a few decent establishments along the way... :p
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